mcman56

When I replaced the seals on my 02 Sherco, the shaft had deep grooves worn into it so I replaced that too. It looked to me like soft steel that was not even polished. I saved the shaft with the idea of making one out of hardened stainless steel shaft material. It would be a lot easier than making a sleeve and the required precision diameter would come form the shaft material. It never failed again so I did not follow through.

I have heard of wear sleeves but never tried them. They are very thin tubes that press on the shaft in the seal area. http://www.bearingservice.com/products/seals/wear-sleeves

The rear brake on a "new to me" Rev 3 takes a lot of foot pressure to start braking and when it starts to work feels sort of on or off. Is this normal? It feels different from Sherco and Gas Gas but does look to have steel braided lines.

Can someone recommend what type of overall 1st gear ratio is good for a C15? Currently I'm at 23:1 which is too tall. (this includes 1st gear, primary and final) I have seen recommendations of 30:1 and 35:1 for other bikes but am not sure what is appropriate for a C15. Local events have very tight turns. Thanks!

Does someone sell rear sprockets on line? I'm told the wheel is from a 1971 Alpina. Chain size is 428. ID about 5.75, 6 bolts, 3 pins about 8mm, bolt/ pin circle about 6.375, shallow counter bore. The wheel is on a BSA C15 and I'm looking for a big sprocket up near 80 tooth. I could even do the ID and bolt circle machining if sprocket blanks were available in that size.

I had an '88 TY250 and most everything was common with the TY350 mono sold in the US so you could get some things from a Yamaha dealer. There used to be a trials shop called Dallan Something in Canada that stocked parts also but I'm not sure what happened to them.

I have what I believe to be a CA TLR200 and can make a guess at what might be different. It had a rubber snorkel type thing that snapped into the top opening. I suspect it was a silencer and just pops out. There is a 1/2 hole in the top which took some type of smog or breather hose. I don't remember what it was but it could also be easily plugged. The crankcase breather hose has a path into the box and plugs into the metal holder for the foam filter. The bottom of the air box also has a metal heat shield that sits over top of the mid muffler. I don't know if a standard TLR has the mid muffler. A site like bikebandit.com should have a part diagram so you could see what extras are there.

JSP Can you provide detail on using a soldering iron. I attempted this on my old fender by just pressing down for 30 seconds or so but nothing happened.

Are you using wicd? I had wireless issues with whatever came with Ubuntu but wicd works well. It can be loaded from the package manager and works for wired plus wireless. http://wicd.sourceforge.net/

I just purchased a new rear fender and the glued on screen is coming off already, just like the original. This is a 2008 Rev 3. Can anyone recommend a glue or other fixing method?

I had a 2002 2.9 and the tank grew over time. I used a file to slot the front mounting hole further back towards the cap for a better fit. That made mounting OK and I could push the tank down in place but it still did not fit real well to the frame. I don't know if it was tank expansion or I bent something but eventually, the rear fender started to overlap the tank. I used a band saw to shorten the front of the fender to get an acceptable but not great fit. On a Sherco, the rear fender does not do the best job at keeping water out of the air box. I think this is more of a problem when washing the bike rather than riding the bike but I live in a pretty dry climate. If you do a search, you can find some old postings by Ishy detailing how to seal things up with weather stripping/ tape. It is pretty simple to do and is cheap insurance to keep water out of the air box. When I got the gas cap on straight to the neck of the tank, it turned fairly easy and sealed well. When it was not 100% straight, it was tight and leaked.

I recently changed from a Sherco to a Rev 3. The Sherco muffler was quite solidly mounted and was a good place to grasp when lifting the rear of the bike. The Rev 3 muffler is not so rigidly mounted. Is there a good place to grab when lifting or is there a way to mount a lifting strap?

A "new to me" 2008 Rev 3 had the same issue. The forks felt very harsh like they were just blowing through their travel. Upon disassembly, I found the compression side was about 1" low on oil. The manual is incorrect in that it shows the oil level measured with the spring in place so maybe that is why is was low. The rebound side was about 1/4" high possibly because the cartridge was not fully bled of air. It took a long time to get the air out when I put in new oil. Once the oil levels were set to spec, there was a very big difference. The forks are nice and firm, possibly even a little too firm for my taste. The manual's oil volume numbers did appear corredt. Adjusting oil level is a common fork tuning procedure but since the right and left forks have different internals, they may have different volumes which could have different compression rations and therefore a

Are the crankshafts really different? The specs I found are that the stroke is the same for 250 and 200 so what is different about the cranks? It looks like Beta took a different approach than Gas Gas by sleeving down a 250 rather than boring out a 125. Although mine is a 2008 so probably does not have an actual sleeve like mentioned in the post above. Dan

Can a Rev 3 200 cylinder be bored to accept the 250 piston? Is it the same casting with the same ports/ port timing?

I just changed from an 2002 Sherco 2.9 to a rev 3 200. The Sherco had the slow throttle and retarded timing to make it soft. The 200 has the fast throttle. Although I have not done any big climbs, power wise, they are surprisingly similar in sections. The 200 is weaker at the very initial crack of the throttle like when coming to a good size step with a 1 foot approach. (This could also be engine tuning or my desire to just use throttle and no clutch in situations like that.) The other thing I notice is the lighter flywheel...when off the power. When chopping off the throttle to roll up an obstacle, there is a little less flywheel energy to pull you up. I have found myself panic reving a few times at the very top of things but assume I'll get used to it. I was on the Sherco for 6 years so whatever style I have must have been adapted to that bike. It seems to start on about 1/2 of a kick. The 200 feels much lighter and sort of floats over obstacles. Newer/ better suspension must be part of that feel. In some situations, the front end feels lighter. That could be peg location or maybe I'm holding power on longer. It also turns much tighter than the Sherco. It has the same stroke as the 250. Does anyone know if the cylinder casting is the same? If I decided I wanted a 250 could I just have it bored out and plated?

Is it a new rattle or has it always been there? Many older Hondas had somewhat noisy cam chains. My TLR is like that. I also had a CB750 that was the same. It may be normal. You may want to compare to another TLR. For ease of use, you can buy feeler gages that are bent. Like this: http://www.bikebandit.com/bikemaster-12-blade-combination-tappet-and-feeler-gauge-set

Will a standard fat bar handlebar pad work on a Rev 3? If not, I saw a small Beta identified pad on an Evo. Is that the only option? Where do can I buy one?

I have several spare AJP levers with a small pivot hole but now ride a Rev3 that has levers with a large pivot hole. Can the AJPs be made to work by drilling them out or maybe using a special pivot bolt?

I looked through the post at the top of the Beta section in great detail but the drilling instructions are not there. The closest I find is a "translation" from a broken link that I can not understand. It looks like Mr. Addict posted some pictures but they are no longer there. Do you have any other recommendation on where to look? Neo

I see lots of references to a carb drilling mod but can not find details. I found a link on http://www.kdmototrials.com.au but it is broken. (Tech_MIKUNIFix1.pdf) Does anyone know where the detail can be found? Thanks

I finally got my C15 together. Thanks to those on the forum that provided input. So...what should it run like? I need to do some more tuning and I have never ridden a TL125 but it runs like a TL125 sounds. It is super smooth and pulls smoothly and strongly from very low rpms but does not respond quickly. It takes lot of effort to lift the wheel 1/2 foot. (Bultaco front end/ wheel with steel BSA tank) It has the standard cam, big valve/ small port head, Kehin 22 mm carb and an ignition with no advance...set at full (I believe). 18 tooth motor sprocket, 13 tooth trans sprocket and 54 on the rear. I was expecting some quicker response like a TLR200.

Yes, the kicker sticks out quite a bit to clear the foot rest. Plus, the clevis must add some stress. I remade in steel, made it slightly thicker and tucked in the kicker about 1/2" so hopefully it will hold.

I have a 1960 C15 and it has a tube comming up from the bottom for setting the gear box oil level. Is there a dipstick available that will work from the fill plug/ breather hole? It looks like they came on the 250s in 1967 but the fill plug hole is vertical rather than angled on the later models.

I had a 2002 with a non rebuildable shock. Parts were available and it can be done. There was some input that it would soon fail again but it has been about a year and I ride some every week. See the link below. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/28332-shock-rebuild-in-us/page__p__232017__hl__*mcman56*__fromsearch__1#entry232017