mcman56

I'm putting together a C15 with an original oil tank. It looks like there is room to move it in towards the center of the bike. This would make the bike more narrow and possibly make space for the exhaust to go inside the subframe? (1960 goose neck). Has anyone done this? Do you have pictures of the mounts?

Thanks - I'll check out those throttle tubes. Chewy - Do you have any advice on growing those quick action legs. They are definitely part of the equation. Unfortunately, I also lack a quick action brain. Do any shops in the UK carry brain upgrade kits?

I'm having an issue getting enough power to get up some bigger obstacles. I can lift the wheel to the obstacle but then struggle to twist the throttle enough to get a big burst to launch up. Lifting the wheel 3 feet or so causes the bike to rotate up which requires the wrist to rotate down just to maintain the same throttle opening. I think that is what makes it hard to get that second bigger burst. Is there something I'm missing? Do I need to "over grip" the throttle prior to big obstacles to allow some more twist? The bike is a Sherco 2.9 so does have adequate power. I have retarded the timing and run the slow throttle because the softer response helps in every other situation. I have seen others do much more on a 125 so I'm sure this is an operator problem. Any ideas?

I'm fitting together a C15 that has a D shaped air filter container. It does not look like the original design included a gasket for the cover but there are lots of little gaps for dirt to get sucked in. Does anyone have a method for sealing the cover?

Are there any longer lasting front fenders for a 2002 2.9? The factory fenders flex where the fender leaves the fender brace and eventually fail. This is the only bike I have owned that wears out fenders.

They are not UK based but used to do anything custom you wanted. http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/ Have you considered removing metal from the hub where the sprocket mounts?

The carb is a kehin 22mm from a TLR200 Reflex. I'm still putting the bike together so have not run it yet.

I ended up bending a piece of Aluminum 5052 to fit.

Looking at rotating kickers for C15 or Cubs with the clevis pin type mount, everything I see is massive looking steel mounts. Would a similar massive aluminium (6061) mount be adequate? I suspect there is some reason I do not see them in aluminium. Thanks!!

I'm considering an inline screw on type oil filter for a C15. Should this be on the line feeding the engine or on the return line? Are there any recommendations for filter types or are all remote auto type filters adequate? Do all modern filters have a pressure bypass built into the filters? Thanks!!

I think the linkage just moves the shifter back towards the peg.

I would just run a short section of hose on each port and not connect them together. The two side ports are just vents. They will work with nothing attached. However, a piece of 4 or 6" tubing will make it a little harder for dirt to find its way in. The only time they will give you trouble is if they are not vented to air... like if they were plugged. The port in the middle will just be an overflow for the float bowl. A short tube will work there also. Looking at your diagram link, there are a lot of connectors and tubes. I don't really remember but the Reflex may have come with some type of vapor recovery system for smog reasons. If it did, some of these tubes may have been routed to a charcoal canister which then routed to the air cleaner. This would all just be smog stuff and not required for off road. On the TL125, those vent ports had brass tubes with tiny holes for breathing, just like the picture at http://www.vintage-japanese-motorcycles.co...carburetor.html If you want a shifter with spring loaded tip, an aftermarket shifter for an XR100 will fit. The XR100 air filter element will also fit. A '90 XR100 front brake cable is a few inches shorter and gives a slightly better feel than the original Reflex cable.

The original Reflex carb can work fine. 1. The two ports on the side that connect to tubing are vents to the float bowl. As gas gets lifted into the carb, some air needs to go in. These need to vent to atmosphere. 2. An adjustable needle from a 70s street model 125 or a TL125 will fit. In fact, the Reflex carb is pretty much the same as a TL125 carb. They used to sell after market carb rebuild kits on ebay for XL or SL 125s. These came with the needle and that is where I got mine. Will the needle from your XR70 fit? Is it a similar length? You could try it. Shimming the original needle should also work. 3. A 100 or 105 main jet should be about right. These jets are the same as the 1990 XR100 and probably other years. 4. You can pull the cap off to adjust the idle mixture. 5. The pilot jet is different than most so is a bit more difficult. The original 38 was available from Honda but nothing else. It needs to be slightly larger to avoid the cough and die symptom. You can buy a tiny, #60 thru #80, drill bit set from a place like McMaster Carr and go one size larger than it is already. That is what I did. 6. You can remove the snorkle but I never did a comparison to see if it really helps. 7. You can even bore the carb out to the equivalent of a 24mm. It is a bit of work but can give a nice boost in top end power. If you look at the end of the carb that bolts to the engine, you see an oval shape that is non symmetric and oriented towards the bottom. This can be opened so the oval is symmetric top to bottom. The top of the oval does not become active until the throttle is opened so there is no affect on low speed operation.

I run the IRC tube type with no issues.

I started trials on a TY250 mono and it was a good choice. After a year or so, I changed to a '97 270 Gas Gas and my riding ability went backwards for a couple of months. Compared to the Gas Gas, the TY was very smooth and everything happened pretty slow so there was time for corrections. Looking back I should have stayed on it longer. Quick reacting bikes are great but need to be pointed in the right direction and can punish poor throttle/ clutch control

If yours is not a reflex, the forks are different. The Reflex has skinny (33mm?) forks so the valving may be different. 5wt felt fine until I got stiffer springs. Then, it seemed to deflect quite a bit on small rocky sections. Compared to a modern bike, everything happens slowly on the old Honda. I guess that includes the suspension.

Feetupfun That looks like a nice improvement. What did you use for a brake cable? It looks very Japanese. Thanks Dan

If it is a Reflex with stiffer springs, 10 wt @ 5.7" works. For me, 5wt was OK with soft springs but the front end felt "busy" over small rocks with stiffer springs.

If it is like a 2002 shock, it can be rebuilt. You just need to find someone to do it. Some info is at: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....showtopic=28332 After the rebuild, mine feels like a new shock. I suspect fresh oil makes the difference.

Mr Woody, I'm getting further along in my build and realize that I'll need fork stops...at least with the original tank. It looks like I could bolt on some type of stop plate on the lower fork clamp Did you need to add stops to your bike? If so, how? Thanks, Dan

Does someone have a parts diagram or picture of the front brake cable connection to the brake for a 71 Alpina? A picture of what I have is below. I would expect some type of clamp or threaded piece to hold the cable but there is just a little bracket with a hole. Does the cable just float on top? Am I missing something? I'm not sure what to make of this. Thanks!!

I purchased a project C15 (1960) with no head steady and then bought one off of eBay. The one I purchased has a flat bar to connect head to frame clamp but it did not seem to fit so I used a simple spacer. It all fits together but is too wide and interferes with the gas tank. Is this the wrong head steady? Could someone describe what the correct one would look like? It looks pretty simple to make....maybe just longer where it attaches to the head. See the picture.

That is a good idea. I have a lathe. Do you have any pictures?

What would be a good length spacer for a C15? For the machined ones, are they aluminium?

I'm putting together a simple C15 for trials. The existing carb is a monoblock 376/ 258 and under the dirt/ cobwebs appears serviceable. I believe but am not sure that it has a 1 1/16" choke. Should this be adequate for trials? If it makes a difference, the engine has the standard cam and 40-441 head. (big valve - 11/16" choke per the RR book) The other option at hand is a 22mm TLR200 carb but the mounting is different.