mcman56

The bike started easily and had a very strong healthy idle. It was maybe OK when slowly opening the throttle but with a quick twist would bog. A quick twist brought an increase in rpm followed by sort of shutting off until the throttle was returned. I cleaned the carb twice by disassembling, using carb cleaner and high pressure air. All passages that could be seen were open to the eye and flowed air. The first cleaning included an air box cleaning and a look down the intake at the reeds. The second cleaning included raising the needle two positions. Neither had an effect. So..I pulled the stator cover and flywheel. It was very dirty inside and had some corrosion. The dirt was stuck on like it was wet when it got dirty. The stator itself looked OK. I cleaned it up with a tooth brush, contact cleaner. and an air hose. Upon reassembly there was no spark. Checking continunity wire to wire and wire to ground, the only connection is 1 ohm between the yellow wire and ground. I guess I need a rewind. I do have a couple of questions. 1. The parts list shows no gasket for the stator cover. On other brands, I have always used silicone in addition to whatever gasket was there. What is recommended for Beta? (I am aware of the acetic acid given off by RTV and the possible ill effects on electronics but have never had an issue.) 2. The rotor says Slovenia. Who makes ignitions in Slovenia?

That is how I did my 2008. Make sure and pump all of the air out of the right fork before measuring the height. It seemed to take a while. Set up like this, it was a little harsh for me (at 155 lbs). I lowered the height in the left tube from 120 mm to 5" and it seems just right.

This is a Mikuni, 27.5 and 145. What are the symptoms of a bad stator? On throttle is probably the same thing as high combustion pressure to fire a plug.

I have had a 08 rev 3 200 for a few months and it has run OK at sea level and 1200 feet. Last weekend I rode a trial at 5500 feet and the power felt "flat" or soft. So I tried very quickly opening the throttle and it would bog and then ping when the throttle was shut. Back to sea level, I have cleaned the carb twice, raised the needle two notches and still have the same result. I'm not that quick on the throttle so it may have always been that way. The plug looks slightly rich. My question is, what else could cause that symptom? It seems that stator issues would mimic rich. The idle is very strong so I would think that rules out crank seals. Could this just be a lean pilot jet? Adjusting the mixture screw has almost zero effect.

I just switched from a 290 to a 200 and like it everywhere except for big steps. I suspect that the technique is different but could use some input. The obstacles are about 4' tall granite with a little bit of slope. They are either tall enough or maybe the slope is enough that you do not have to worry about hitting the bash plate. On the 290, I could approach at a walking speed, hit the step part way up with the front wheel, use a fair amount of throttle until the back wheel hit, chop the throttle and let the flywheel pull me up. The 200 has less initial punch when the front wheel hits the step and lacks the flywheel to just pull the bike up. Staying on the throttle gives the sensation of flipping over backwards. Engine response is really sweet on the 200 so I don't think a flywheel weight would be an adequate solution.

I recently completed a C15 and had a difficult time getting the rings to seat. I was finally advised to assemble the cylinder dry and run it at 2500 or so rpm until hot. The result was no smoke followed by lots of smoke. After allowing it to cool, I restarted and it has been smoke free. The rings also had a very slight taper from top to bottom that was difficult to see on the first look.

According the the specs, the Beta 200 is a sleeved down 250. The GG "200" is a bored out 125. Looking strictly at part numbers, there is no commonality among any of the engine sizes. Interestingly, the 200 forks have a different part number also. Could this be different damping or maybe an older style fork. I realize that this would be an experiment but would like to have a complete 250 top end to work with. Did the cylinder head bolt pattern change from Techno or Zero?

I'm considering trying to install a Rev3 250 top end on a 200. I have the cylinder and piston but not a cylinder head. Does anyone know if heads from other models or years will fit? I would like to buy a used head.

The lower shock bearing is dry and crusty so I assume that is the issue. This does not appear to be a standard size. Could it be a Beta only bearing? 14 x 26

My 08 Rev 3 has developed an odd squeak. It sounds like it comes from the bottom rear of the skid plate. It happens when holding the rear brake and pushing down/ forward on the suspension. No matter how or what I try, I can not create the squeak with out the rear brake on. I tried a little penetrating oil around the shock bearings and swing arm bearings with no affect. Has anyone had this?

I converted an 02 290 using similar Pro Taper parts. With the adaptors and a factory Suzuki/ KTM bend bar, the grips come out in almost the same position as stock. I ran them for several years with no issues. The Protaper bar pad even covers up the adaptors. I did not put them on a scale but total weight was also less than the stock bar with cross bar.

I had the same issue with my TLR200 after putting on big pegs. I bent the kick lever so it goes out a little farther and clears the peg. The lever was held in a vise and heated red with a propane torch at the bend spot. I believe I used a long wrench as a lever arm. It took two ..or three bends. One was out to clear the peg. One was back up on the outside of the peg and there may have been a third to get the foot piece level. It works well.

You were correct. Upon inspection, I saw that the disk was pushed to one side when operating the brake. After removing the caliper and the pads from the caliper, I found that I could move both pistons by hand. I sprayed with WD40 to clean and then sprayed with brake cleaner to remove the WD40. Upon reassembly it worked well. I did not dissemble the caliper or remove the brake line. I'm surprised that a simple external procedure worked.

When I replaced the seals on my 02 Sherco, the shaft had deep grooves worn into it so I replaced that too. It looked to me like soft steel that was not even polished. I saved the shaft with the idea of making one out of hardened stainless steel shaft material. It would be a lot easier than making a sleeve and the required precision diameter would come form the shaft material. It never failed again so I did not follow through.

I have heard of wear sleeves but never tried them. They are very thin tubes that press on the shaft in the seal area. http://www.bearingservice.com/products/seals/wear-sleeves

The rear brake on a "new to me" Rev 3 takes a lot of foot pressure to start braking and when it starts to work feels sort of on or off. Is this normal? It feels different from Sherco and Gas Gas but does look to have steel braided lines.

Can someone recommend what type of overall 1st gear ratio is good for a C15? Currently I'm at 23:1 which is too tall. (this includes 1st gear, primary and final) I have seen recommendations of 30:1 and 35:1 for other bikes but am not sure what is appropriate for a C15. Local events have very tight turns. Thanks!

Does someone sell rear sprockets on line? I'm told the wheel is from a 1971 Alpina. Chain size is 428. ID about 5.75, 6 bolts, 3 pins about 8mm, bolt/ pin circle about 6.375, shallow counter bore. The wheel is on a BSA C15 and I'm looking for a big sprocket up near 80 tooth. I could even do the ID and bolt circle machining if sprocket blanks were available in that size.

I had an '88 TY250 and most everything was common with the TY350 mono sold in the US so you could get some things from a Yamaha dealer. There used to be a trials shop called Dallan Something in Canada that stocked parts also but I'm not sure what happened to them.

I have what I believe to be a CA TLR200 and can make a guess at what might be different. It had a rubber snorkel type thing that snapped into the top opening. I suspect it was a silencer and just pops out. There is a 1/2 hole in the top which took some type of smog or breather hose. I don't remember what it was but it could also be easily plugged. The crankcase breather hose has a path into the box and plugs into the metal holder for the foam filter. The bottom of the air box also has a metal heat shield that sits over top of the mid muffler. I don't know if a standard TLR has the mid muffler. A site like bikebandit.com should have a part diagram so you could see what extras are there.

JSP Can you provide detail on using a soldering iron. I attempted this on my old fender by just pressing down for 30 seconds or so but nothing happened.

Are you using wicd? I had wireless issues with whatever came with Ubuntu but wicd works well. It can be loaded from the package manager and works for wired plus wireless. http://wicd.sourceforge.net/

I just purchased a new rear fender and the glued on screen is coming off already, just like the original. This is a 2008 Rev 3. Can anyone recommend a glue or other fixing method?

I had a 2002 2.9 and the tank grew over time. I used a file to slot the front mounting hole further back towards the cap for a better fit. That made mounting OK and I could push the tank down in place but it still did not fit real well to the frame. I don't know if it was tank expansion or I bent something but eventually, the rear fender started to overlap the tank. I used a band saw to shorten the front of the fender to get an acceptable but not great fit. On a Sherco, the rear fender does not do the best job at keeping water out of the air box. I think this is more of a problem when washing the bike rather than riding the bike but I live in a pretty dry climate. If you do a search, you can find some old postings by Ishy detailing how to seal things up with weather stripping/ tape. It is pretty simple to do and is cheap insurance to keep water out of the air box. When I got the gas cap on straight to the neck of the tank, it turned fairly easy and sealed well. When it was not 100% straight, it was tight and leaked.

I recently changed from a Sherco to a Rev 3. The Sherco muffler was quite solidly mounted and was a good place to grasp when lifting the rear of the bike. The Rev 3 muffler is not so rigidly mounted. Is there a good place to grab when lifting or is there a way to mount a lifting strap?