mcman56

Thanks for the advice. I was able to use the "tube" method by positioning a deep socket on the back side and using a big hammer. Prior to hearing that the pin was tapered, I started to drill it out from the big side. Luckily, I did not get too far. Even with the pin out, it was a bear to get the kicker off. I used pullers, heat and finally a hammer. The shaft had bulged where the pin pressed.

I

I'm in the process of disassembling a C15 that has been sitting for some time and is somewhat rusty. I can remove the nut from the fastener that holds the kicker on .....but even a sharp hit with a hammer will not drive it out. (the opposite end is round and looks like the end of a dowel pin) Does anyone know how to get this out? Does the fastener have some flat sides that keep it from spinning? While on the subject, the motor is also locked up. I have the head off and got the cyliner moved up about 1/16" but that is as far as it will go. The piston is not at TDC so even if it is the frozen piece, the cylinder should move farther. Are there any recommendations on this? Thanks

A 24 mm carb adds a good bit of top end to the Reflex. There are no negatives on low end response.

Does anyone know what size clutch hub puller (extractor) is needed for a BSA C15? It looks like a 7/8-20 thread but that does not seem to meet any standard.

I have just bought a pre 65 BSA C15 that will need some serious reviving to be ridable. Wheel and fork replacement may be easier than working with what is there. The AHRMA rules seem to allow any pre 1975 forks and wheels? Is this correct? Does this mean I could use early 70's Japanese or Spanish forks and wheels? If nothing else, it would allow me to ride while I revive the original parts.

Billycraig, Link 2 on your post seems outdated could you update somehow??? thanks

What type of improvement does the XR100 carb provide?

My Sherco also has the cast in clamps. I used adapters and a fat bar from Protaper. The bars are the factory Suzuki/ KTM bend. They have little rise and compensate for the height of the adapters.

My Reflex front brake seemed fairly strong but was very mushy feeling. I found taking the play out of the cable and lever made a huge difference. Prior to the fix, I could actually notice the lever mount flex where it mounted to the bar. I used an XR100 front brake cable because it was a little shoter and a mountain bike brake lever/ perch. I used the cable adjustment to remove play so that the adjuster and the perch could be screwed all of the way in. The cable and lever do not move around like they used to and the feel is very solid.

Is the 24 mm carb the same casting but with the oval bore taller than the 22 mm? (same width) If so, it will give you a nice boost at the top end with no affect on any other part of the power curve. Another local rider and myself use this setup. Just make sure the slide comes all of the way up on full throttle. The 22 mm slide will not open all of the way in the 24 mm carb........unless you shorten the top of the slide. (at least on the ones I have seen) All other components are the same. You can even machine a 22 to the 24 size.

Does anyone have a recommendation for forearm protection? I use standard elbow/ forearm guards and even kid sized guards. They tend to slide down towards my wrist and can be hot in summer. I don't really need the elbow protection but do tend to land on my forearms. This happens when falling in a section and when getting spit off the front on a quick trail.

I had some issues with arm pump so started training my grip regulary. ( wrist rolls, grippers, the gyro thing, etc.) Arm pump went away but was replaced with what I would call concrete arms. It only happens on extremely long, grip intensive, climbs. My forearms get as hard as concrete and hurt pretty bad but still work....not like the mush arm pump feel. Has anyone found a cure?

The adjustable cam sprockets for the other 200cc Hondas from parts unlimited will fit the TLR Reflex. Retarding the cam timing takes some power off of the top and puts it on the bottom. I liked the change but it gave more response to the bottom not less.

Do I see one of the rubber snorkel exhausts on your bike? Does it make a big difference in sound output? Are there other pros or cons?

I ended up retarding 4.5 mm. The motor is a little slower responding at low rpm. However, the occasional engine knock is now more frequent. I expected the opposite result. Could it need a bigger jet? I have Boyesens and it was runnign fine on a 33.

It is a 2002, 2.9. The indicator will almost fit but the fan motor pushes it a little to far forward to thread in.

I'm trying to verify and adjust timing on my 2.9. However, the spark plug thread mounted dial indicator I have will not fit. It looks like I need to remove the radiator fan and radiator to get clearance. Is there a way to get this done without pulling these pieces? The RYP site shows the process but does it use a smaller than standard indicator?

While making a 1/4" skid plate, I used a 20 ton press for the press brake and barely had enough power. Searching for an inexpensive but more powerful press, I found one at Grizzly. The arbor plates are just channel and there are no markings on the bottle jack but it works well. It has a lot of power so looking back I wonder if there was an issue with the 20 ton press. http://grizzly.com/products/30-Ton-Shop-Press/H6228

I made a Reflex skid plate out of 3/16 5052 and it seems to have held up well. It uses the original hard rubber spacer from Honda. My Sherco is more like .156" but has some stamped in features for strength. I'm in the process of making a press brake to try and form the right radius for the Sherco so I can make a thicker one. Ads for general off road bike skid plates vary from 5/32" to 1/4" and 5052 to 6061.

I have a Reflex so do not know if this applies. The Reflex comes with progressively wound fork springs. If you cut off the tightly wound end and use a longer spacer the fork action improves dramatically. I set mine up with 3/4" of spring preload and raised the oil level about 3/8". The forks do not bottom, spring right up and no longer have that wallowing feel after going over a big log.

I have used 5052 in 3/16" and 1/4" thickness. From McMastercarr Forming and Working Also known as workability or bendability. It's the extent to which a material won't crack when bent without applying heat. Excellent 1100 Good 3003, 5005, 5052, 5086, 6063 Fair 2011, 2017, 2024, 6060, 6061 Poor 2007, 852.0, 4032, 6013, 6020, 7068, 7075, MIC 6, QC-10

Yes..#665 and they do fit the KTM 65.

Mostly it is made of surplus junk from the garage but I spent about $20. I'm sure it took over three hours to fab all of the fixturing so it is not a cost effective use of time. I could not find a local shop that did this type of work and did not want to spend time shipping. I also wanted to see how it would work. It is surprising what some people will do to amuse themselves.

Is there some secret to fitting the muffler on a 2.9? My original was loud so I decided to buy a new one. Well...the mounts are close but still different. Old muffler lines up to all mounts pretty well. New one looks like it needs a 1/4" spacer at the top rear mount and that the mounting hole needs to be slotted forward. It also touches the little tail frame piece that mounts the rear fender. I had a similar fit problem with a replacement air box.