mcman56

By eye ball, mine do not align. It looks like I need to do some alignment checks. It also takes a hydraulic press to install the swingarm pivot. It is very tight all of the way through but does not look rusty. I forgot to check if it was egg shaped. Are there any recommendations on how to proceed? Thanks, Dan

How much more powerful? Is the 160 kitted Scorpa close to the TLR power?

I'm looking at a bare C15 frame. Should the swingarm pivot be parallel to the short frame piece across the back at the bottom of the frame? Mine does not look so. The little frame piece just holds the pegs but I would expect them to line up.

I have seen ideas for off the bike balance exercises. However, has anyone tried a non bike related exercise to improve timing? timing...as in a double blip with unload over an obstacle. It is one thing to know what needs to be done and another to time/ coordinate those activities together.

Can you write up a little comparison between the TLR and Scorpa 125? Is the 125 still a 125? Is the power similar to a TLR200? I have the US Reflex TLR200 and have wondered if the Scorpa would be better. 50 lbs less, modern suspension and modern brakes must make a difference.

I run 660 bronze bushings with the Sherco inner steel sleeves in the dog bones. There are no seals. There is room to install 90 degree grease fittings pointing down on the front of the dog bones and straight ones pointing back at the rear. A grease groove in the bushings distributes the grease. After 1 1/2 years, I did manage to break off the rear fittings. A easy-out made for a simple repair and inspection showed no degradation of the bushings or sleeves. A dealer somewhere on the US east coast had advertised something similar for Gas Gas and I basically copied the idea. I expected to feel some stiction but notice no difference. When replacing the lower shock bearing, I looked for one drilled for a grease fitting but they were only available on the next larger size. I notice that some Japanese dirt bikes come with needle bearings and grease fittings on the suspension. Is there any chance one of those would fit the dog bones?

With end bolts removed, should the swing arm pivot shaft just tap out? Mine seems to have a little play and then locks up like it is hitting something. Any suggestions?

Can someone tell me the size of the o rings on the rocker arm shafts? These fit in the rocker box when the shafts are pressed in. My gasket /seal kit does not include them. I have some 1/6" cross section, 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD o rings but they look too thick, like the shafts will never press into the rocker box..

Would installation of a 1971 swing arm be AHRMA legal on a pre 65 lightweight? I'm planning to install a Bultaco wheel on a C15 but also have the swingarm. It might actually make the swap easier. The rule book mentions frames and engines but says nothing specific about swingarms. I do notice that people modify swingarms and others offer aftermarket arms.

Can anyone tell me the chain size (520 or 428) and fork travel for an M85 (1971 Alpina)? Thanks

I recently bought one of the cheap inner rotor kits for pit bikes from ebay. I set it up on a mill to test and it gets 12 degrees of advance from 660 rpm to 2720 rpm. I have been told that 10 to 12 degrees of advance is normal for these. If you want a CDI with no advance, I understand that the two stroke ones have no advance. How much mechanical advance does the TL have?

I had a 1992 air cooled model for my daughter. The bike was great except a bit pipey. You would not feel it "get on the pipe" when accelerating but it would "fall off the pipe" when climbing hills. I did a few mods that helped tremendously. Looking at the picture of this bike, it has a much different exhaust pipe from our model....longer so it probably provides for much better low end power.

Does anyone have a diagram or detail on disassembling the Lucas distributors for single cylinder British bikes? I have the long shaft/ cam/ advance mechanism out of the outer housing. It is rusty but looks salvageable. I would like to know how it comes apart so I don't just start trying to pull stuff off and end up breaking it. Thanks!!

M2000 was the standard small spark arrestor that clamped on the exhaust of most modern trials bikes. It is cone shaped.

I have an M2000 spark arrestor that is about 5 years old. It needs a new screen so I have 2 questions. 1. does anyone sell replacement screens? 2. what is the trick to soldering a new screen? I have some stainless steel screen that I treated with acid flux solder. When I try to solder with silver solder or copper pipe type solder, it just runs off. In general, I suck at soldering. Are there any recommendations to get this done? thanks!!

Never put off until tomorrow........I put in a 35 pilot and it idles nicely at 2.5 turns out. It also chugs around the backyard OK but will have to wait for a full test. This does not explain the change. Maybe I was on the edge of lean and a change in the fuel pushed it over.

I did notice a little water in the carb but figure that it was from all the washing I did with the tank off prior to removal. Yesterday, I dumped and air dried the gas tank and gas can plus cleaned the carb again. After warm up with fresh gas, the result was the same. It sounds just like it is running out of gas at 4 to 5 turns out on the mixture screw. At 3 it dies. The fan cycles a lot even though it is only in the 80s and bogs if the throttle is hit quickly. I don't see any signs of vacuum leaks. It certainly was not rich before this issue. I have a 34, 35 and 36 pilot so I could try a 35 but I don't know what could have changed. Does CA reformulate gas mid summer?

2002 2.9 started to develop a rolly lean sounding idle. It seemed to come on slowly. Oddly it was not affected by the mixture screw and did not produce any serious lean symptoms like big knock or bog but did get some minor knocking. Off idle performance was a bit weak and less predictable but otherwise performance was normal. I did a basic carb clean followed by a major carb and air box clean but it is still much the same. Mixture screw does not seem to make a difference. Any ideas? Could this be bad gas? The only odd thing is that I run a 33 pilot but have been running it for a few years with good success.

Which way is the little oil pump cover/ sump plate supposed to be installed on a 1960 C15? The documentation from BSA does not say but a couple of their diagrams suggest that the deep part goes toward the front. However, I have a rebuild article that shows it installed toward the rear.

I'll give heat a try. Thanks for the thought on checking the mill head. It is a China copy and it would be a good idea to verify. The handle is only 3/8 and broke at a thread so hopefully there was not enough force to move the head. Since the press fit is standard, I'm just surprised there is not a special tool for the job.

The small (17 tooth) gears on each of my C15s transmission shafts is a press fit on the splines. I used a gear puller to get them off. What is a good way to press them back on? I tried tapping with a hammer but they got stuck. Then I tried using a mill as a press and snapped off the hand lever (3/8"). I can see that the gear was not going on straight. It seems like they need to be pressed on very straight. Thanks!!

I have not been able to contact C&D for a couple of weeks. I gave up and ordered parts elsewhere. According to the web site, they are moving. Are they closed during the move?

The Rupert Ratio book mentions a steel/ bronze combination sleeve gear bush for the C15. It says it is a later model option but the distributor and side points parts books do not show such a thing. Where could I purchase? I'm in the US if that makes a difference.

The pain/ stiffness is not between the shoulder blades but below. There is sort of a slab of muscle on each side of the spine that is tight. I assume this is spinal erector and something else. I'll get a foam roller. To approximate the old chiropractic roller table (interstatioal traction?), I made a roller of 5" plastic drain pipe with relief in the middle for my spine. Rolling back and forth on it also helps and gets some good back cracks.

I'm not sure if it is from trials but my mid back muscles tend to be tight and sore. It is the area of arching when standing on the bike. These are the muscles just below the shoulder blades. Are there any exercises or stretches that can loosen up this area? The yoga "plow" helps some but not much seems to reach this area.