mcman56

I use the adaptors on a 2002 Sherco. They may not look as clean as a new top fork clamp but are hidden under a big pad anyway. They work well but add height to the bars. I used the Protaper adaptors. Factory Suzuki/ Ktm Protaper bars have a very low rise so the height ( and sweep) worked out to be the same as the Renthal trials bars that were on the bike. I like the fatbars because they are a little easier on the wrists and arms.

I happened to find a similar but wrong size bearing to look at. It is a NA6904. The outer race has an oil groove around the outside and one hole leading ti the needles. The inner race has no hole or grooves.

It looks like the crank journal is actually 25 mm. Does this mean I could just use one of their complete bearings with inner and outer race? Like their NKI-25/20 or NA-5905 (25 42 23)? The case would have to be machined to match the OD but it would avoid having to machine hardened parts. I guess it would still need thrust washers. Are they really needed for thrust or more to limit oil flow out the side of the bearing?

The picture on your blog explains quite a bit. I thought the needle bearing came with an outer race. I can do lathe and mill type machining but these inner and outer races must be hard so grinding would be required. Is the original steel outer piece of the bronze bush hard or is a whole new one required? Looking at the Rubert book, if you stick with a bushing, you should just replace the bronze piece. However, I have been looking on line and the bronze piece does not seem to be available separately.

That is an interesting idea. I pulled the specification on the needle bearing. On my engine, it looks like the oil pumps from the cases, through the bushing and into the crankshaft to feed the big end bearing. How do you get oil flow though the outer wall of the needle bearing? What material do you use for the thrust beraings?

I have had very good success with the cast aluminium brake pedal on a Beta. Bending "work hardens" aluminium and heating followed by slow cooling softens it. The trick is to find the right temperature for softening. I believe that is what the soap trick listed above does. (burn off temperature = softening temperature) I have used an acetelene torch in the same way. You can use a very "rich" torch setting to coat the aluminium with black soot. Then use a standard setting to burn the soot off. It would then be soft and ready for bending within reason. My Beta pedal was bent into a U shape so I used two or three heating then bending steps to get it back to straight. I have also heard you can coat with black magic marker and then burn off but I have not tried that.

Thanks for posting that Blog. It will be a real help. The pins were cut off or broken off screw threads. Someone must have put them in to prevent movement. The one in the distributor came out with an ez out but did not seem to do anything. The ez out broke off in the one in the cases. The big hammer method removed the distributor but did create a little damage. When I finally split the cases, it looked like there was dried mud in the crank area. Luckily the transmission and timing side parts look servicable. Does someone sell an engine bolt/ screw kit? Most of mine are in poor shape. I hear about converting from a bush on the timing side to a roller or needle bearing but do not see anything available on line. How is this done? Is it expensive?

Thanks for the advice. I was able to use the "tube" method by positioning a deep socket on the back side and using a big hammer. Prior to hearing that the pin was tapered, I started to drill it out from the big side. Luckily, I did not get too far. Even with the pin out, it was a bear to get the kicker off. I used pullers, heat and finally a hammer. The shaft had bulged where the pin pressed.

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I'm in the process of disassembling a C15 that has been sitting for some time and is somewhat rusty. I can remove the nut from the fastener that holds the kicker on .....but even a sharp hit with a hammer will not drive it out. (the opposite end is round and looks like the end of a dowel pin) Does anyone know how to get this out? Does the fastener have some flat sides that keep it from spinning? While on the subject, the motor is also locked up. I have the head off and got the cyliner moved up about 1/16" but that is as far as it will go. The piston is not at TDC so even if it is the frozen piece, the cylinder should move farther. Are there any recommendations on this? Thanks

A 24 mm carb adds a good bit of top end to the Reflex. There are no negatives on low end response.

Does anyone know what size clutch hub puller (extractor) is needed for a BSA C15? It looks like a 7/8-20 thread but that does not seem to meet any standard.

I have just bought a pre 65 BSA C15 that will need some serious reviving to be ridable. Wheel and fork replacement may be easier than working with what is there. The AHRMA rules seem to allow any pre 1975 forks and wheels? Is this correct? Does this mean I could use early 70's Japanese or Spanish forks and wheels? If nothing else, it would allow me to ride while I revive the original parts.

Billycraig, Link 2 on your post seems outdated could you update somehow??? thanks

What type of improvement does the XR100 carb provide?

My Sherco also has the cast in clamps. I used adapters and a fat bar from Protaper. The bars are the factory Suzuki/ KTM bend. They have little rise and compensate for the height of the adapters.

My Reflex front brake seemed fairly strong but was very mushy feeling. I found taking the play out of the cable and lever made a huge difference. Prior to the fix, I could actually notice the lever mount flex where it mounted to the bar. I used an XR100 front brake cable because it was a little shoter and a mountain bike brake lever/ perch. I used the cable adjustment to remove play so that the adjuster and the perch could be screwed all of the way in. The cable and lever do not move around like they used to and the feel is very solid.

Is the 24 mm carb the same casting but with the oval bore taller than the 22 mm? (same width) If so, it will give you a nice boost at the top end with no affect on any other part of the power curve. Another local rider and myself use this setup. Just make sure the slide comes all of the way up on full throttle. The 22 mm slide will not open all of the way in the 24 mm carb........unless you shorten the top of the slide. (at least on the ones I have seen) All other components are the same. You can even machine a 22 to the 24 size.

Does anyone have a recommendation for forearm protection? I use standard elbow/ forearm guards and even kid sized guards. They tend to slide down towards my wrist and can be hot in summer. I don't really need the elbow protection but do tend to land on my forearms. This happens when falling in a section and when getting spit off the front on a quick trail.

I had some issues with arm pump so started training my grip regulary. ( wrist rolls, grippers, the gyro thing, etc.) Arm pump went away but was replaced with what I would call concrete arms. It only happens on extremely long, grip intensive, climbs. My forearms get as hard as concrete and hurt pretty bad but still work....not like the mush arm pump feel. Has anyone found a cure?

The adjustable cam sprockets for the other 200cc Hondas from parts unlimited will fit the TLR Reflex. Retarding the cam timing takes some power off of the top and puts it on the bottom. I liked the change but it gave more response to the bottom not less.

Do I see one of the rubber snorkel exhausts on your bike? Does it make a big difference in sound output? Are there other pros or cons?

I ended up retarding 4.5 mm. The motor is a little slower responding at low rpm. However, the occasional engine knock is now more frequent. I expected the opposite result. Could it need a bigger jet? I have Boyesens and it was runnign fine on a 33.

It is a 2002, 2.9. The indicator will almost fit but the fan motor pushes it a little to far forward to thread in.

I'm trying to verify and adjust timing on my 2.9. However, the spark plug thread mounted dial indicator I have will not fit. It looks like I need to remove the radiator fan and radiator to get clearance. Is there a way to get this done without pulling these pieces? The RYP site shows the process but does it use a smaller than standard indicator?