mcman56

See http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Technical/Floats.html for some details on sinking floats.

spout....is that an XR100 in a Fantic frame?

I thought others may find this interesting. A friend has been using a 24mm carb on a TLR200 with very good success. Contrary to expectations, he says it increased bottom end power significantly. The source of the 24mm carb is unknown so I took some measurements and found that the stock 22mm carb is the same casting. The modification involves reworking the engine side by creating a counterbore centered in the o-ring. A taper similar to the original is cut to ease flow. Second, an end mill is dropped down in the throat to increase the height of the oval. Except for a slight difference in the taper, it appears to be an exact match to the 24mm one. I modified one per this procedure and his testing says it works very well. I am doing another for myself so I can test on my own bike. The mod also requires porting the intake manifold to match the larger carb. I have a couple of pics but unfoprtunately the quality is not great. (any suggestions on how to get good pics?) I tried to attach but do not see them as I am posting.

Does anyone know the flywheel puller size for a 1993 Fantic 50/ 80 (air cooled). It looks like a 23.5 x 1.25 but I can't really get a proper measurement. (could be 23mm or 24 mm)

I had issues like that twice on 50cc bikes. (MR50 & JR50) Both times it was the condensor. It seems like any condensor will work. On one I used a Sportser condensor...... on the other an old Ford condensor.

I'm in the process of installing bicycle components to operate the valve lifter on a Reflex with steel tank. Due to the tank, there is little clearance where the cable mounts to the cylinder head. Should I use the original 90 degree metal cable bend to go towards the back and then loop the cable forward? Should I use a straight cable end and try to go up and then forward with the cable? What have others done?

Thanks for the instruction copy. I wonder if it used gears from another Honda model? The quality of the instructions suggest to me that it was not a custom gear manufacturer. (although 20 years ago instructions were not so pretty) A wider range transmission would sure be nice.

tlrs Can you give some details on the taller 6th gear? Was this done with Honda parts? Are the components still available?

The fork springs can be modified for a stiffer rating. There is a tightly wound spring section at the top and a more loosely wound section at the bottom (tight means more coils per inch). The tight section is about 3 or 4 inches long and can be cut off. Heat and bend the newly exposed end to make the spring semi-flat on top and reinstall with new spacers with 3/16" preload. This mod was recommended to me and I found that it made a big difference. The bike handled much better and the forks did not bottom on every tiny jump on the loop. (No....it did not coil bind.) I have also done a similar mod to a Reflex with good success. I did not cut the whole tight end off on the Reflex but it is still a bit to soft.

What is an RS220? That aluminium swingarm looks nice.

I have a '92 with upside down forks. Is there a way to drain the oil without pulling the forks? They appear to have no drain plug so I would have to pull them off and dump the oil.

Does anyone know what size flywheel puller the 2.9 uses? Is it an M30 x 1.5 like the Beta?

On the Reflex version, I have been told that a spacer is required when going to a small front sprocket. I added a spacer about 1/8 to 3/16 thick when going to a 9 tooth front sprocket. My spacer is just a piece of aluminium tube.

I have a 1993 clubman 80 (air cooled) that is new to me. Does anyone know what type of power to expect from this bike? It does have some pull down low that lets it chug at very low rpm on relatively flat ground. It also has some top end pull when it "gets on the pipe". However, the mid range is pretty flat and opening the throttle can just make it bog. I'm wondering if this is normal or if some improved jetting may help. It is intended for a new 100 lb rider and the lumpy powerband will make it more difficult.

I have some kick starter slipping on a 1993 Fantic 80. One gear mounts to the clutch cover and one is mounted on the cases behind the clutch. Is there a standard clearance that should be maintained?. (too much may be causeing my problem.)

I have always seen a gasket or an o-ring. Unfortunately, the on line parts list I found does not show that piece.

What type of seal is used on a 97 techno clutch cover? RTV silicone seems prone to leak. This bike had what appeared to be a ring of solder for a seal but it is no longer round so I can't tell the diameter. (I have heard of that before but can't remember where.)

On my '97 techno, some fiber plates are marked with a 1 and some are marked with a 2. The markings are on the little ears that engage the outer hub. Does this mean anything or denote an assembly order? Second, there is a washer under the inner hub. It looks like a standard hardware washer but I was expecting something surface ground on both sides. Is this correct? (I'm diagnosing a sticking/ dragging issue)

Can you run an AJP 4 piston caliper with a Gremeca front master cylinder? Are there any issues with this? The bike is a 1999 315.

I finally pulled the top end apart. The bottom of the piston in front of the exhaust port has a little crack and the piston is curled slightly inward for a height of about 0.150". At TDC, there was a leak from the crankcase to the exhaust port. I guess this disturbed the gas flow. The cylinder, crank and cases are without damage. It looks like mechanical damage....like someone stuck something in the exhaust port and then tried to kick the engine over. Weird! I have pictures for anyone into these types of things. The timing never did retard. Idle was about 6 degrees BTDC. Mid was 20. When the motor really screamed, it shot up to 25 or 30 degrees.

The electrics were in a box due to a non functioning fan. I replaced the rectifier, fixed a broken fan wire and remounted the stator. I found the timing spec of 2.7 mm btdc. Does anyone know at what RPM this specification should be met? Using a dial indicator and then timing light, it is at 2.7 in the mid rpm range.

I have a 97 Techno that has no response/ power. It runs like a Reflex (TLR200) with some top end. It runs consistently and does not knock or ping even when climbing a very long steep hill. (but did spit out coolant) I bought it not running with electrical problems and do not know it's history. The carb has had multiple cleanings (27.5 pilot, 140 main, 5C23 needle in mid position). I did follow the Billy T float set suggestions. Compression is 155 psi. (The same gauge reads 150 psi on an almost new Sherco 2.9) I cleaned the whole exhaust system and it did not smoke much on the long hill. The reeds look good. I just did an air pressure leak test and there are no leaks. Any ideas on this?

$1500 for an excellent condition Reflex is in the range. Most that I have seen are somewhat dented up. These bikes are very durable and I don't think there are any specific weak points. Some noise in the top ends seems common. I don't know if it is valves or cam chain. Earlier Honda street bikes were known for cam chain noise but it did not cause any problems.

HondaRS.....Can you add some detail on the statement that "with a few careful mods can be made a great deal better." What would these careful mods be?

Can someone tell me if there is a reserve setting for a 97 techno? It looks like pointing up towards the front to the bike is off and pointing down towards the back of the bike is off. Is sideways the resevce?