mcman56

I had some issues with arm pump so started training my grip regulary. ( wrist rolls, grippers, the gyro thing, etc.) Arm pump went away but was replaced with what I would call concrete arms. It only happens on extremely long, grip intensive, climbs. My forearms get as hard as concrete and hurt pretty bad but still work....not like the mush arm pump feel. Has anyone found a cure?

The adjustable cam sprockets for the other 200cc Hondas from parts unlimited will fit the TLR Reflex. Retarding the cam timing takes some power off of the top and puts it on the bottom. I liked the change but it gave more response to the bottom not less.

Do I see one of the rubber snorkel exhausts on your bike? Does it make a big difference in sound output? Are there other pros or cons?

I ended up retarding 4.5 mm. The motor is a little slower responding at low rpm. However, the occasional engine knock is now more frequent. I expected the opposite result. Could it need a bigger jet? I have Boyesens and it was runnign fine on a 33.

It is a 2002, 2.9. The indicator will almost fit but the fan motor pushes it a little to far forward to thread in.

I'm trying to verify and adjust timing on my 2.9. However, the spark plug thread mounted dial indicator I have will not fit. It looks like I need to remove the radiator fan and radiator to get clearance. Is there a way to get this done without pulling these pieces? The RYP site shows the process but does it use a smaller than standard indicator?

While making a 1/4" skid plate, I used a 20 ton press for the press brake and barely had enough power. Searching for an inexpensive but more powerful press, I found one at Grizzly. The arbor plates are just channel and there are no markings on the bottle jack but it works well. It has a lot of power so looking back I wonder if there was an issue with the 20 ton press. http://grizzly.com/products/30-Ton-Shop-Press/H6228

I made a Reflex skid plate out of 3/16 5052 and it seems to have held up well. It uses the original hard rubber spacer from Honda. My Sherco is more like .156" but has some stamped in features for strength. I'm in the process of making a press brake to try and form the right radius for the Sherco so I can make a thicker one. Ads for general off road bike skid plates vary from 5/32" to 1/4" and 5052 to 6061.

I have a Reflex so do not know if this applies. The Reflex comes with progressively wound fork springs. If you cut off the tightly wound end and use a longer spacer the fork action improves dramatically. I set mine up with 3/4" of spring preload and raised the oil level about 3/8". The forks do not bottom, spring right up and no longer have that wallowing feel after going over a big log.

I have used 5052 in 3/16" and 1/4" thickness. From McMastercarr Forming and Working Also known as workability or bendability. It's the extent to which a material won't crack when bent without applying heat. Excellent 1100 Good 3003, 5005, 5052, 5086, 6063 Fair 2011, 2017, 2024, 6060, 6061 Poor 2007, 852.0, 4032, 6013, 6020, 7068, 7075, MIC 6, QC-10

Yes..#665 and they do fit the KTM 65.

Mostly it is made of surplus junk from the garage but I spent about $20. I'm sure it took over three hours to fab all of the fixturing so it is not a cost effective use of time. I could not find a local shop that did this type of work and did not want to spend time shipping. I also wanted to see how it would work. It is surprising what some people will do to amuse themselves.

Is there some secret to fitting the muffler on a 2.9? My original was loud so I decided to buy a new one. Well...the mounts are close but still different. Old muffler lines up to all mounts pretty well. New one looks like it needs a 1/4" spacer at the top rear mount and that the mounting hole needs to be slotted forward. It also touches the little tail frame piece that mounts the rear fender. I had a similar fit problem with a replacement air box.

I made a bolt on plug for the engine side. It was over kill but I also added a 75 psi pressure relief valve. On the muffler end, I used an automotive rubber expanding freeze plug. To keep it from getting pushed out, I trapped the pipe in sort of a wood sandwich. (This was one of those activities that took on its own life.) Mapp gas heated it red hot and a small hammer was used to tap around the dent. It took some time but came out. The result looks a little lumpy but I'm not a great freehand craftsman. The pressure was right at 75 psi because the valve popped a few times. Next time I would try more pressure. before http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mc...er/DSC00391.jpg after http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mc...er/DSC00402.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mc...er/DSC00397.jpg set up http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mc...er/DSC00393.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mc...er/DSC00394.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mc...er/DSC00396.jpg

Looking at the specs, timing for 2000 & 2001 2.9s is 2.7 mm. For 2003 it is close at 3.0 but the 2002 spec is 3.8. Why the difference? (The 2.5 specs show a similar pattern.)

I have a friend with a couple of 280s. He would like something easier to start and does not need the power of the 280. It sounds like quite a few people converted 125s to a bigger bore so I figured that there should be some used 125 top ends for sale. If the 280 rod uses a bigger wrist (gudgen?) pin, it could likely be spaced down with a collar. That would even help the ballance. Machining and spacers could likely get a good mechanical fit but the port timing would be in question. I have some basic expereince with that but would have to get parts to measure the existing timing and calculate what the longer stroke would do.

Can a 125 pro top end be put on a 280 lower end? Would a stroker plate and/ or cylinder-case spacer be needed? This would produce a true 200.

MAX1956BIKES How much air pressure did you put in the pipes?

I have a nice dent in the lowest part of my 2.9 header pipe. Pics are below. This has to be a pretty common dent area. Does anyone have experience fixing something like this? Searching the internet, I find two fix methods. Some great results are shown for freezing water in 4 stroke header pipes. However, this pipe section is somewhat oval and there is a seam that could get pulled apart. Then there is the pressurize with air and heat method. It sounds feasible and more controllable than freezing water but may have risks with names like bomb and cannon. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mc...rco_pipe009.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mc...rco_pipe008.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mc...rco_pipe007.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/mc...rco_pipe006.jpg

Is this a Reflex?

I don't have the skill to do that kind of welding. (someday I need to take a class) What do you think a shop would charge? I ordered some parts at RYP this week and inquired about muffler prices. The guesstimate was around $270. (I did not ask to check the actual.) Delivered, that has to be close to $300. Another option is what patoche did. Not as pretty as welded but looks like something the average person could do. It may be worth a try before throwing the existing one in the trash. http://ppat61.free.fr/Sherco/

Thanks....the pictures are not bad but now I'm a little confused. I see two punched sheet metal plates with holes for rivets or screws and one cover plate. How does all of this go together? Do you weld the punched plates to the muffler....one in front of the central barrier and one behind? Are there actually two cover plates...one front and one back? Or?

When looking through these posts there are two people that mention a riveted assembly. "Chris" has a link to pictures on trialstalk but the link is dead. The "French Guy" has a link to a French site but I don't see anything there.

I'm considering a muffler repack on a 2.9 and did a search for old posts. There are some pictures for the cutting and welding but I also see some references to using rivets for reassembly. This would really ease future repacks but all of the links to pictures are dead. Does anyone have pictures or links to pictures for reassembly with rivets?

"Deep cervical work using a BP cuff or biofeedback device" I assume this is a relaxation exercise. What type of "BP cuff" is needed? Do you need a continuous readout or just sample every couple of minutes? Would the inexpensive wrist type work?