mcman56

I'll give heat a try. Thanks for the thought on checking the mill head. It is a China copy and it would be a good idea to verify. The handle is only 3/8 and broke at a thread so hopefully there was not enough force to move the head. Since the press fit is standard, I'm just surprised there is not a special tool for the job.

The small (17 tooth) gears on each of my C15s transmission shafts is a press fit on the splines. I used a gear puller to get them off. What is a good way to press them back on? I tried tapping with a hammer but they got stuck. Then I tried using a mill as a press and snapped off the hand lever (3/8"). I can see that the gear was not going on straight. It seems like they need to be pressed on very straight. Thanks!!

I have not been able to contact C&D for a couple of weeks. I gave up and ordered parts elsewhere. According to the web site, they are moving. Are they closed during the move?

The Rupert Ratio book mentions a steel/ bronze combination sleeve gear bush for the C15. It says it is a later model option but the distributor and side points parts books do not show such a thing. Where could I purchase? I'm in the US if that makes a difference.

The pain/ stiffness is not between the shoulder blades but below. There is sort of a slab of muscle on each side of the spine that is tight. I assume this is spinal erector and something else. I'll get a foam roller. To approximate the old chiropractic roller table (interstatioal traction?), I made a roller of 5" plastic drain pipe with relief in the middle for my spine. Rolling back and forth on it also helps and gets some good back cracks.

I'm not sure if it is from trials but my mid back muscles tend to be tight and sore. It is the area of arching when standing on the bike. These are the muscles just below the shoulder blades. Are there any exercises or stretches that can loosen up this area? The yoga "plow" helps some but not much seems to reach this area.

Where do I get details or pictures of this conversion?

My C15 has a clutch actuator (pivot) that threads into the timing cover. I have been told the Cub is the same. It interfaces with the cable and rod. When rotated into the correct location, the threads are not tight. Does this matter? Will it flex around an destroy the threads? Is there a standard correction? Is seems like the threads should bottom as the correct position is met.

On the subject of not fully warming the engine.....I grew up in an area with cold winters and in an era of cast iron V8 engines. The old engines took a while to warm up and one winter I had a job just a few miles away. If I only drove to work, the oil would absorb so much mositure that it would eventaully look like milk. A good long drive would dry it out.

If that bike is like the one I had, ignition and lights are run on AC. The factory regulator was missing when I got the bike. The aftermarket regulator I bought simply stops the voltage from going too high. One wire goes into the lighting circuit or to the battery connection if it is still there. The other goes to ground. There should be a direction or orientation so it will only work when the wires are hooked up correctly. (I don't know if there will be damage if it is hooked up the backwards.) Once the votlage gets up to about 14 VAC, it will bleed off to ground and the device will get warm. The regulator will keep the lights from burning out so fast.

What bike are the wheels from? The rear brake and sprocket are on teh same side.

I went at this from a different direction and machined a complete timing side bush from bronze. (The original steel was not very tight and I had seen sold bronze bushes for the bigger twins.) However, I found it a real challenge to install. I had to be careful to align the two flats to the cases during the install. However, careful meant slow and the bush would heat up and start to sieze in the bore. To a lesser extent, I had the same problem with the transmission bush that must align with the mall pin. Are there any secrets to this?

You are off by one decimal point. 1 mm = 0.03937

I have used carbide end mills in a milling machine to cut a groove in the inner race. Once the wall thickness is very thin, it will split with a little force. It was surprising how easy the races machine with carbide tools.

Interesting post but can some translate "shifter" into American?

This is not an answer but may be useful. After buying a used Reflex, I noticed that the front wheel was not centered in the forks. I forget how far off it was...maybe 1/4" plus. It looked like the original wheel (steel in the US) and had no signs of being altered. I had it relaced to center it but since that time have heard that some street bikes actually come with wheels that are not in line. Could it have been offset by design? Did he check the original wheel for centering?

I have had to drill my own pilot jets for the TLR200. If I remember correctly, the #40 is .4 mm or 0.0157". A 1/64 drill is 0.0156" and a #78 drill is 0.016". You can get small drill sets at: http://www.mcmaster.com/#31055a64/=npars I did once see a link for carb parts that suggested the #40 jet from some year CB750 would fit but never tried that one. The TLR200 main jets are the same as XR100 mains but the pilots are different.

I use a 1990 XR100 brake cable on a Reflex. It is a little shorter and gives a better feel.

What does your clutch work like with that set up?

I'm not certain but the spacer from a Reflex (86'/ 87' TLR200) should be the same. You could look at a parts blow up, like the one on bikebandit, to get an idea.

Does anyone have a sprocket recommendation on a C15 for Trials? I would prefer to stay away from a huge back sprocket and am really only concerned about getting first low enough. This bike has the 33/17 first gear....listed as wide ratio in the RR book. (Oddly the other gears match the close ratio numbers in the book.) From what I can tell, the smallest transmission sprocket is 13 tooth and the smallest motor sprocket is 18. With the existing 56 rear sprocket, I calculate an overall 1st gear about 24:1. The same calculation for my Reflex with 9/44 final drive gives me 45:1. Am I missing something?

I removed the small end bush from my C15 and the surface finish inside the rod is really rough. It looks like a very bad drilling job. As far as I can tell, it is pretty much round with an ID of .751/ .752. Is this rough surface normal or common? I'm thinking it needs to bored for an oversize bush but don't want to bother if this is actually normal.

I cut spacers from PVC pipe.

Opening up the pilot jet slightly will improve the idle. To stiffen the front fork, I cut off the tightly wound piece and then set preload to about 1". I only weigh 155 and this works for me. It does not coil bind.

What compression ratio should be targeted for a C15 intended for trials? It is a 1960 C15S. The available range seems to go from 6.5 to 10:1. It looks like early C15T had 6.5:1 and later models had 8:1.