mcman56

Do you have any pictures of the process or result?

Has anyone seen the S3 cylinder head for a Beta? How does it seal? Other brands use orings but I can't see how this works with the steel Beta head gasket. Are there any pictures somwhere on line?

When new, what did BSA do with the vent on the oil tank and the one on the cylinder head? Was the cylinder head vent installed at the factory or could it be a modification? It is oddly close to where a valve lifter may be on other models.

Are you saying that there should be a vent to air on the oil tank and another vent to air on the cylinder head? I have these two connected together so they are trying to vent to each other and not air. I suspect that this may be why it is leaking when running with internal pressure pushing oil out into the timing cover. If the engine speed gets really slow to an almost stalling speed, it makes this weird wheezing sound that I have not heard in an engine before. This is also my only Brit bike experience so could that be normal? It takes about a day and a half for oil to start leaking when parked. I suspect the sump fills up to a level where it can then leak out the vents in the timing cover. This has a right side kick stand that may make it worse. This is a 1960 and I don't think the timing cover is sealed as well as on the later models. I put a petcock on the oil line to stop the leak but worry that one day I'll forget to open before starting. I'm running 40 wt oil in weather from 60 to 90 F. Thanks for the input.

Is there a recommended process to make a C15 not a big oil leaker? When running, my C15 leaks oil on to the bash plate and then to the ground so it is unclear where it is leaking from. I don't see any obvious leaks from gasket areas. After parked for a couple of days, it starts to leak which I believe is wet sumping. All check balls and springs were replaced but during the rebuild most everthing was corroded so the condition of the ball seats is unknown. There is a tube fitting on the head which I connected to the oil tank so there is no real breather...is this correct? The frame has a right side kick stand that would seem to make the leaks worse with all of the vents/ holes on the right side of a 1960 engine.

Bushings are still available from Honda. They were something like $10 each and not that easy to install. The bushings had a split steel sleeve on the ID and OD. I used a hole saw to cut out most of the bush and then pried out the outer sleeve.

What is a Gollner gear set? Is it a wide ratio transmission? Where do you get one?

It also helps to preform the tire before trying to mount. Put a tube in the tire and inflate until the seating area is very wide, maybe 6", and let the tire sit for a few days. It will take a set that helps to get the seating process started.

It has been a while but this guy seemed to have everything and shipped to the US. It was surprisingly fast to get parts. http://frankfieldfantic.co.uk/ The Tryals Shop had some type of connection to get parts but it took months to get what I needed. I had a 1993 80cc clubman. The cases said 50cc but the top end said 80cc. I measured and the 80 was basically a big bore 50. It had some extra features in the cases like it also came in a water cooled and/ or oil injected version so maybe it was also used in some other type of bike.

A rectifier can cut off 1/2 of the AC but you need to "fill in" that missing part. A capacitor can do that well enough. Some of these components will get hot when running. Bike regulators are really voltage limiters but I beleive they are only needed to protect light bulbs. They basically, dump voltage to ground when it goes over about 14 volts. http://www.bikebandit.com/moose-racing-regulator

What does it take to remove the rear brake pedal on a Rev 3? There is a nut on the inside but not adequate space to get a standard thickness spanner on the nut. I can't even get calipers in there to measure the nut size. It looks like the most direct method is to remove the swing arm but I'm thinking there must be an easier way.

Matt confirmed that the Otter frame is not acceptable in the premier class. It does sound like some frame mods are OK. I have a spare 1965 frame. To improve ground clearance, it seems that you could lift the motor and bottom frame rails up until the top of the head hits the frame. Has anyone done this?

The Reflex does not use the battery for the ignition system so you do not need to look there.

The AHRMA rule book states: 13.2.6 ALL MODIFICATIONS MUST BE CONSISTENT WITH THE SPIRIT OF THE CLASS. Period modifications have been extensively documented and machines with obvious non-period or excessive modifications will be disqualified or required to compete in the next-higher-level class. Where would one find this extensive documentation for a premier trials bike frame as in C15? Would a home made Otter frame be legal?

Mr Broony...do you have any pics of the modified motor mounts? Did you have to remove the bottom frame rails? What about the lower engine mounts? Thanks

It will be pressed in place. The standard method is to use a special puller. However, if you have access to a mill, a carbide end mill cuts those bearings easily. I cut one area to a very thin wall and then split them with a chisel.

I'm looking at an 02 200 Pro model. At BDC, the piston is still about 3/32" above the floor of the exhaust port. Is that normal? I expected them to be close to even.

Yes, it is the pedal end that is close. Does anyone know how to remove the pedal? It looks trapped in place by the swingarm. Do you just need a skinny wrench to get in there?

Where can I get a copy of the "rebuild tech sheet"?

My original chain would periodically touch the brake pedal so I assumed the pedal had been bent in slightly. I just installed an RK O-ring chain (GB520MXU) and could feel some more serious rubbing. I reversed the master link and used some channel lock pliers to bend the end of the pedal out slightly. There is now zero rubbing. But....channel lock pliers seem like one of the tools that would have a different name in the UK.

There should be a torque setting for the bolts but it will be pretty low. Nothing springs out when you back off and remove the bolts. The plate should come out evenly. I would pull them out to make sure each location has the same spacers or whatever that model came with. Springs will not have exactly the same tension so you will be able to swap their locations to get a more even movement. It is a trial and error process but can produce good results.

I used a band saw to cut an X across the pads and then rounded the sharp edge with a file. This reduced he initial "grabbyness" on my REV3. If you change pads, it should be for a softer pad like one of the organics.

You can try raising the needle and possibly a bigger pilot jet.

Used top end assemblies show up on ebay periodically.

I decided to give it a try. Previously, I was running a 22mm Keihin from a TLR200. It ran OK but did not idle well so I had to run a pretty high tickover speed. The Mikuni idles much much better at quite a low speed. Mid and high range are maybe OK but could be better. Is there someone who has sorted this or something similar before?