mcman56

Can a Rev 3 crank seals be replaced without splitting the cases? If so, how do you pull the old one out?

The vented Airoh looks interesting but there are no close dealers where I can try one for fit. Can anyone comment on the inside shape? Is it like the old Bieffe or more like a Shiro? Or....

Shouldn't the top nut keep the top clamp in position? I just had this problem on a Kawasaki Concours. It sounded like the front end was going to fall off but I could not find any looseness when pushing the front end back and forth. Eventually, I found that the top nut was loose and once torqued the noise went away. The top fork clamp is a very loose fit on the spindle. My Beta did have some weird ticking type front end noise when the front wheel would hit the ground. I cleaned the fork tubes really well and torqued all of the fasteners and the sound went away. I suspect the tubes were moving a bit in the clamps.

Can anyone tell me what is different about the 76mm bore kits for Rev 3s? The Beta site shows 5 different versions.... 00 to 02, 03 to 05, 06, 07 & 08. http://www.betamotor.com/en/trial/parts

Some scooters use the Morini engine and there are a large number of performance options for scooters. You could try the carb size that came on the Fantic 80 (16 - 18 mm?) http://www.dellorto.co.uk/merchandise/products.asp?CategoryID=2&PartsectionID=20 http://www.psntuning.co.uk/scooter_category.php?cat_id=397&sec_id=D

I have mixed and matched parts plus did a little machining on cylinder and head. I'm now trying to decide if I have too much compression. What would be an expected or highest expected compression test number for a 250 Rev3? My old Sherco was around 155 psi.

The 2008 Rev 3 manual shows a 60 mm air gap on the side with no spring. On the side with the spring, it shows 120 mm with the spring in place. I have been told it should be 120 mm with the spring removed and did mine that way. The splat shop page suggests differently. My forks do feel soft and I weigh 155 lbs but don't ever remember the feeling of hitting bottom or hydraulic lock. What level do other riders run? When filling, the forks do need to be pumped up and down to remove air bubbles before measuring. The manual does show 5wt oil.

This product is available to UK mainland customers only! (see the file) Is there a problem shipping the product. Is it really a WMD? How much is needed to do a wheel? heldite.pdf

I also just has this same leaking issue after changing a tire. I removed the tire and rim band. All looked OK but there was a little dirt and water between the band and rim. It already had the Jitse type band and I did not want to wait for another. I cleaned everything up very well, reseated the band using tire mounting lube and remounted the tire. It was a lot of work but now seals. Heldite sounds quite interesting but their site does not show a US distributor. Is there a generic name for this type of product?

Is there aluminum mid muffler available for a 2002 Pro 200?

I did the exact same thing. It sounded like the triple blip technique. (blip, blip, bliiiiip) I believe it was a lack of mental follow through. It went away when I started to think about placing the front wheel on the ground on the far side of the obstacle. Previously, I had just thought about getting up and over so maybe was not prepared for the landing. Once I changed my destination from just getting over to actually placing the front wheel on the ground on the far side, there was a big improvement. This mental change must have triggered physical technique changes but I could not tell you what they were.

Can you tell by looking? See below. Was the 160 unmarked and would it fit a pro? I have heard of S3 cylinders but assumed they would have some marking.

Would an unmarked cylinder on a 2002 Pro 200 suggest something different in the engine? The cylinder does not have the Gas Gas name cast into it on either side. It is also lacking the round symbol with the number inside that I believe is some kind of casting mark. The outside finish looks a little more like paint that is wearing off than what ever is standard.

Do you have any pictures of the process or result?

Has anyone seen the S3 cylinder head for a Beta? How does it seal? Other brands use orings but I can't see how this works with the steel Beta head gasket. Are there any pictures somwhere on line?

When new, what did BSA do with the vent on the oil tank and the one on the cylinder head? Was the cylinder head vent installed at the factory or could it be a modification? It is oddly close to where a valve lifter may be on other models.

Are you saying that there should be a vent to air on the oil tank and another vent to air on the cylinder head? I have these two connected together so they are trying to vent to each other and not air. I suspect that this may be why it is leaking when running with internal pressure pushing oil out into the timing cover. If the engine speed gets really slow to an almost stalling speed, it makes this weird wheezing sound that I have not heard in an engine before. This is also my only Brit bike experience so could that be normal? It takes about a day and a half for oil to start leaking when parked. I suspect the sump fills up to a level where it can then leak out the vents in the timing cover. This has a right side kick stand that may make it worse. This is a 1960 and I don't think the timing cover is sealed as well as on the later models. I put a petcock on the oil line to stop the leak but worry that one day I'll forget to open before starting. I'm running 40 wt oil in weather from 60 to 90 F. Thanks for the input.

Is there a recommended process to make a C15 not a big oil leaker? When running, my C15 leaks oil on to the bash plate and then to the ground so it is unclear where it is leaking from. I don't see any obvious leaks from gasket areas. After parked for a couple of days, it starts to leak which I believe is wet sumping. All check balls and springs were replaced but during the rebuild most everthing was corroded so the condition of the ball seats is unknown. There is a tube fitting on the head which I connected to the oil tank so there is no real breather...is this correct? The frame has a right side kick stand that would seem to make the leaks worse with all of the vents/ holes on the right side of a 1960 engine.

Bushings are still available from Honda. They were something like $10 each and not that easy to install. The bushings had a split steel sleeve on the ID and OD. I used a hole saw to cut out most of the bush and then pried out the outer sleeve.

What is a Gollner gear set? Is it a wide ratio transmission? Where do you get one?

It also helps to preform the tire before trying to mount. Put a tube in the tire and inflate until the seating area is very wide, maybe 6", and let the tire sit for a few days. It will take a set that helps to get the seating process started.

It has been a while but this guy seemed to have everything and shipped to the US. It was surprisingly fast to get parts. http://frankfieldfantic.co.uk/ The Tryals Shop had some type of connection to get parts but it took months to get what I needed. I had a 1993 80cc clubman. The cases said 50cc but the top end said 80cc. I measured and the 80 was basically a big bore 50. It had some extra features in the cases like it also came in a water cooled and/ or oil injected version so maybe it was also used in some other type of bike.

A rectifier can cut off 1/2 of the AC but you need to "fill in" that missing part. A capacitor can do that well enough. Some of these components will get hot when running. Bike regulators are really voltage limiters but I beleive they are only needed to protect light bulbs. They basically, dump voltage to ground when it goes over about 14 volts. http://www.bikebandit.com/moose-racing-regulator

What does it take to remove the rear brake pedal on a Rev 3? There is a nut on the inside but not adequate space to get a standard thickness spanner on the nut. I can't even get calipers in there to measure the nut size. It looks like the most direct method is to remove the swing arm but I'm thinking there must be an easier way.

Matt confirmed that the Otter frame is not acceptable in the premier class. It does sound like some frame mods are OK. I have a spare 1965 frame. To improve ground clearance, it seems that you could lift the motor and bottom frame rails up until the top of the head hits the frame. Has anyone done this?