mcman56

They are required on all public lands in CA, National Forests and State/ County Parks. Most riding areas do inspect for spark arrestors and will ticket you if you are riding without one. Most also want to see the "ÜS Forest Service Approved Spark Arrestor" marking. I have not seen any differenece in performance with and without the spark arrestors I have used but you do have to keep the screen type clean. The US TLR200 Reflex came with a turbine type. Is your TR77 a screen or turbine type arrestor? Maybe you should sell it to yellow_cad.

It depends on the shape of your muffler. These come in different shapes. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CBE-EX9173/ Supertrapp makes some clamp ons https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=SUPERTRAPP3S One from a modern bike may also fit http://www.lewisportusa.com/parts_muffler.htm Some people replace the entire muffler with one containing a spark arrestor.

I find Beta brakes to have less feel than the Sherco AJP. Does anyone make soft/ organic pads for Betas. EBC made soft pads for Sherco but I don't see them for Beta.

My TLR200 was kind of similar. Turning in the idle speed screw about 1/3 to 1/2 turn before starting works. After a couple of minutes idling, it can be turned down. The choke on this carb has nothing to produce a high idle. It simply blocks air flow to increase vacuum at the jets.

For slow tight turns, 428 with 13/72 seems OK with an 18 tooth engine sprocket.

I see that the Rev3 has a steel head gasket. Is it assembled dry? The old base gasket looks like it has some type of blue sealant lines built into the gasket. Does this face up or down? Is it a good idea to grease the other side? Does the big ports in the head gasket face towards the back with the small holes towards the front?

There could be a carb issue making it run out of fuel. Dirt floating around or maybe a sticky float valve could do that. I would clean the carb. While it is off, drain some gas out of the petcock to verify that it is flowing to the carb OK. Running some WD40 or oil through the throttle cable may loosen that up. A white spark plug would support a running out of fuel diagnosis. But, since it is intermittent, a dark plug does not disprove. An air leak is possible but I have not heard of them causing intermittent problems. You could inspect the intake area for leaks and possibly try spraying on some soapy water to look for bubbles. Does it ever bog when opening the throttle?

A sticking throttle does not operate on its own but can prevent the motor from slowing down after you shut off the throttle. Is that what happens? A cable routing issue can make the throttle open when you turn the handlebars. Under what conditions will it take off?

Can the top end (cylinder & piston)of a Rev3 be removed with the motor in the frame? If not, what does it take?

I had only seen references to the mod on 250 and bigger bikes. If it does work on the smaller engines, maybe I have another cause of generally lean. I even pressure tested the bottom end looking for air leaks but found nothing. Does the 125 also use the same size carb?

Where can I find a specification for ring end gap for a 250? In particular, what is the service limit? I assume, a minimum gap would be about 0.015". 0.050 would exceed the service limit but what about 0.030"?

Can anyone tell me what the factory float setting is for a Rev3 200? I have set the float height to the Billy T spec but have been having all sorts of lean running issues. This means too lean with a 35 pilot and needle full rich. I suspect that the 200 has less vacuum and struggles to lift the fuel the extra distance. I raised the level some and it is now OK with the richer settings but I would like to get back to the original settings. Unfortunately, I did not record the original float height. I sort of remember the tangs being slightly above parallel to the gasket surface. Is that correct?

I recently had to replace the stator on my Rev3 200. On the first ride out there was some very serious knocking...at this point I don't remember if it was off throttle or if it was also bogging on throttle. Raising the needle two steps to full rich resolved the severe problem. (This is also about the time it got hot and very dry in northern CA so would include a change to summer gas.) Now I get some fairly minor repeat knocking and a little rolling of engine speed when cutting the throttle. Cutting throttle, it feels a little lean but applying throttle there is no bog or knock. It runs OK but not great. I had a Sherco 2.9 that would knock just once sometimes when chopping the throttle but this feels different. I believe the previous owner ran race gas. I have gone up two sizes on the pilot jet and retarded timing 2mm back to the stock setting with little effect. I had also fooled with the carb when diagnosing the stator issue. Various float level settings seem to have little effect. The idle mixture screw seems to have less effect than I expect but I have no experience with Betas breathing through Mikunis. So...could this just be an expected result of heat and summer gas? Could it be something else? What are the symptoms of a bad crank seal on the stator side?

How does it idle? Can you get a nice slow steady idle?

Copemeh What happens when you go to far? Does it knock like crazy on advance..or? I think I went 6mm in retard on my 2.9 and it made it a softy.

Niel on the Velocette. I don't know what it weighs but it is pretty amazing how well he can ride that thing.

Wow...no info. I pulled the rotor off and the key was quite mangled so that may have been my issue. While I was there, I looked at timing. I found a picture on line showing a 7.5 mm dimension. Mine was at 5.1. As a compromise, I went to 6.5. I also marked the flywheel for TDC. At 6.5, I got around 10 to 12 degrees of advance (using a timing light) That seemed low so I went back to 5.1 and got about 15 to 17. I'll try test riding with that. For comparison, I looked at the all informative Sherco manuals. The stroke of a 2003 is within .5 mm of the Beta but I don't know about rod length. Assuming they are similar, the 3 mm setting would be 20 degrees of advance. Does anyone have timing specs in degrees for other modern trials bikes?

I figured it out.

I liked firedfromthecircus suggestion so tried to become a site supporter. It told me my sign on name was already taken. Is there another process?

Is there a standard timing setting for the Rev 3? I recently had a stator issue and had it rewound. First ride out was OK but soon was knocking. I raised the needle all of the way and it seemed OK. Third ride out and there is still a little knock when chopping he throttle. I'm wondering if I may have advanced the timing a bit..or if the rewind could have altered geometry slightly. Prior to rewinding the stator, I had the carb apart several times so I could also have unknowingly changed the float height. I thought I would look at the stator first. Overall, the bike runs good....soft but it is a 200. It will start from cold and idle with no choke so I don't think I have an air leak. (90 degree F)

I agree with fastducs. But, if you decide you do need a softer spring rate, you could replace the plastic spacer with a spring. You would need to find one of an appropriate size. Some bikes come stock with a two spring set up. Some shocks are like that too. I believe the formula for two springs is: 1/Ktotal = 1/K1 + 1/K2 The number itself may not mean much to you but would give some gage for comparison....like spring X is 10% stiffer than spring Y.

I tried to add a "looking for something" post. It would disappear so I tried a few times. I finally looked at the rules and this type of post is not permitted. Oops! How do I apologize to the web site King so I don't get banned?

I'm using straight 40 wt for everything. This is a new assembly so the balls and springs are new. However, there was some corrosion and pitting on the cases so the seats may not look so good. This is a 1960 so there is no kick start seal. It sounds like you recommend living with it.

I have noticed something really odd about my C15. After riding, it will not leak oil for two days but then starts to leak at what I beleive to be a constant rate. It seems like there is some type of internal leak that fills up "something". Once that "something" fills up, it starts to leak externally. Oil accumulates on the bash plate so I can't find the exact source. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? This bike does have a right hand side kick stand. I have heard of wet sumping but the bike does not smoke at start up. It does leak while riding but I don't know if that is constant or just after start up.

Does anyone know what the original gearing is for an 08 Rev3 200? I have 11/ 42 but am wondering if 10/ 42 may provide some advantage at high altitudes....like sharp obstacles with short approaches.