mcman56

Looking at the Evo manual, there are 3 special tools required to get the crankshaft out; primary gear puller, motor shaft puller and special primary tool. The two pullers look not to difficult to make but the special primary tool would be a big challenge. Are these tools really needed or would other methods work? Is that special tool steel?

When I bought the smaller sprocket, it came with instructions and a thinner seal for installation behind the sprocket. I did have to cut back the case for clearance. The sprocket and seal came from C&D. I can probably dig up the seal numbers if it would be helpful.

Does anyone know if the 200 crank has any kind of stuffers?

The Evo manual shows a 20 - 23 NM that seems to apply to all models. If you are using an extension on your torque wrench to reach the bolts, this affects the numbers. The torque reading on the wrench needs to be reduced based on the length of the extension. Could someone have installed aluminum head bolts? With steel bolts, I would expect the threads in the cylinder to strip long before the bolts break. It a could be bad wrench. I have found the cheap ratchet type wrenches to be very inconsistent. Beam types are much better.

was there not some issue with that small a sprocket not clearing the drive shaft properly ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have heard that the small sprocket can allow the chain to rub on the engine case. To eliminate that risk, you can make a spacer to keep the sprocket towards the outside of the shaft. PVC pipe is the simplest. If you want to get fancy, the OEM outer plate for locking the sprocket in place can be made round on the OD and then placed on the inside as a spacer. This will put the force on the splines and not risk rubbing the seal. I think I have two on mine.

The inexpensive way to go is to use the OEM rear sprocket with a 9 tooth front for 9/44.

Can a Rev 3 crank seals be replaced without splitting the cases? If so, how do you pull the old one out?

The vented Airoh looks interesting but there are no close dealers where I can try one for fit. Can anyone comment on the inside shape? Is it like the old Bieffe or more like a Shiro? Or....

Shouldn't the top nut keep the top clamp in position? I just had this problem on a Kawasaki Concours. It sounded like the front end was going to fall off but I could not find any looseness when pushing the front end back and forth. Eventually, I found that the top nut was loose and once torqued the noise went away. The top fork clamp is a very loose fit on the spindle. My Beta did have some weird ticking type front end noise when the front wheel would hit the ground. I cleaned the fork tubes really well and torqued all of the fasteners and the sound went away. I suspect the tubes were moving a bit in the clamps.

Can anyone tell me what is different about the 76mm bore kits for Rev 3s? The Beta site shows 5 different versions.... 00 to 02, 03 to 05, 06, 07 & 08. http://www.betamotor.com/en/trial/parts

Some scooters use the Morini engine and there are a large number of performance options for scooters. You could try the carb size that came on the Fantic 80 (16 - 18 mm?) http://www.dellorto.co.uk/merchandise/products.asp?CategoryID=2&PartsectionID=20 http://www.psntuning.co.uk/scooter_category.php?cat_id=397&sec_id=D

I have mixed and matched parts plus did a little machining on cylinder and head. I'm now trying to decide if I have too much compression. What would be an expected or highest expected compression test number for a 250 Rev3? My old Sherco was around 155 psi.

The 2008 Rev 3 manual shows a 60 mm air gap on the side with no spring. On the side with the spring, it shows 120 mm with the spring in place. I have been told it should be 120 mm with the spring removed and did mine that way. The splat shop page suggests differently. My forks do feel soft and I weigh 155 lbs but don't ever remember the feeling of hitting bottom or hydraulic lock. What level do other riders run? When filling, the forks do need to be pumped up and down to remove air bubbles before measuring. The manual does show 5wt oil.

This product is available to UK mainland customers only! (see the file) Is there a problem shipping the product. Is it really a WMD? How much is needed to do a wheel? heldite.pdf

I also just has this same leaking issue after changing a tire. I removed the tire and rim band. All looked OK but there was a little dirt and water between the band and rim. It already had the Jitse type band and I did not want to wait for another. I cleaned everything up very well, reseated the band using tire mounting lube and remounted the tire. It was a lot of work but now seals. Heldite sounds quite interesting but their site does not show a US distributor. Is there a generic name for this type of product?

Is there aluminum mid muffler available for a 2002 Pro 200?

I did the exact same thing. It sounded like the triple blip technique. (blip, blip, bliiiiip) I believe it was a lack of mental follow through. It went away when I started to think about placing the front wheel on the ground on the far side of the obstacle. Previously, I had just thought about getting up and over so maybe was not prepared for the landing. Once I changed my destination from just getting over to actually placing the front wheel on the ground on the far side, there was a big improvement. This mental change must have triggered physical technique changes but I could not tell you what they were.

Can you tell by looking? See below. Was the 160 unmarked and would it fit a pro? I have heard of S3 cylinders but assumed they would have some marking.

Would an unmarked cylinder on a 2002 Pro 200 suggest something different in the engine? The cylinder does not have the Gas Gas name cast into it on either side. It is also lacking the round symbol with the number inside that I believe is some kind of casting mark. The outside finish looks a little more like paint that is wearing off than what ever is standard.

Do you have any pictures of the process or result?

Has anyone seen the S3 cylinder head for a Beta? How does it seal? Other brands use orings but I can't see how this works with the steel Beta head gasket. Are there any pictures somwhere on line?

When new, what did BSA do with the vent on the oil tank and the one on the cylinder head? Was the cylinder head vent installed at the factory or could it be a modification? It is oddly close to where a valve lifter may be on other models.

Are you saying that there should be a vent to air on the oil tank and another vent to air on the cylinder head? I have these two connected together so they are trying to vent to each other and not air. I suspect that this may be why it is leaking when running with internal pressure pushing oil out into the timing cover. If the engine speed gets really slow to an almost stalling speed, it makes this weird wheezing sound that I have not heard in an engine before. This is also my only Brit bike experience so could that be normal? It takes about a day and a half for oil to start leaking when parked. I suspect the sump fills up to a level where it can then leak out the vents in the timing cover. This has a right side kick stand that may make it worse. This is a 1960 and I don't think the timing cover is sealed as well as on the later models. I put a petcock on the oil line to stop the leak but worry that one day I'll forget to open before starting. I'm running 40 wt oil in weather from 60 to 90 F. Thanks for the input.

Is there a recommended process to make a C15 not a big oil leaker? When running, my C15 leaks oil on to the bash plate and then to the ground so it is unclear where it is leaking from. I don't see any obvious leaks from gasket areas. After parked for a couple of days, it starts to leak which I believe is wet sumping. All check balls and springs were replaced but during the rebuild most everthing was corroded so the condition of the ball seats is unknown. There is a tube fitting on the head which I connected to the oil tank so there is no real breather...is this correct? The frame has a right side kick stand that would seem to make the leaks worse with all of the vents/ holes on the right side of a 1960 engine.

Bushings are still available from Honda. They were something like $10 each and not that easy to install. The bushings had a split steel sleeve on the ID and OD. I used a hole saw to cut out most of the bush and then pried out the outer sleeve.