mcman56

I found the same thing - no longer available. Has anyone tried a throttle from a KX85 or similar? They also have a 28mm Keihin. It would probably be too quick but could the ramp could be filed down to get a similar result?

What kind of oil is blue?

Not TL specific but I had this problem on a DT175. The regulators I have seen on dirt type bikes are actually voltage limiters. Voltage from the alternator increases as rpms go up. After about 15 volts, the regulator starts dumping to ground through a circuit to limit voltage. The energy is dissipated as heat. After market regulators were available and I think I used one by Malcolm Smith. On the DT, I could run the lights on AC so this worked. As I remember it was just one wire connected to the circuit and a ground. Like this one. http://www.motosport.com/product?psreferrer=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com&pssource=true&segment=badger&key=Trail-Tech-AC-Voltage-Regulator&cc=us&adpos=1o1&creative=64385813905&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CJO3tujwpsoCFcZbfgod1OEAuA The rectifier converts AC to DC. DC is needed to charge a battery so if you have a battery you will need that also.

It may depend on your throttle control. I have a 2014 Beta 300 and there is nothing abrupt about the power. It is powerful but very smooth in response so not hard to manage. Many people feel that 300s are actually easier to ride. But if you take big stabs at the throttle, a smaller engine may be better.

My throttle can open on its own in certain situations and this can be a bit alarming. The cable must get caught on the little velcro tab on the bar pad. Are my cables routed correctly? It looks like the throttle cable could go over the clutch line but then the clutch line may pull the cable also. I could try running the pad cover inside out or maybe attaching the the pad on from the bottom with tie wraps. Or...is this why Betas come with the special pad...which I don't have.

I currently have a 2008 250 rev 3 and 2014 300 evo factory. tight turns feel the same the Rev 3 suspension is much softer. I would say that is an advantage in a rocky creek bed but a disadvantage on larger obstacles. Softer suspension is less tiring to ride. The evo is a little harder to kick and has sharper power but it has the larger fresh engine. Both start easily. Power is still smooth and controllable on both. Rev 3 suspension has less maintenance Rev 3 has a bigger air filter that may let it go longer between cleanings, Evo gets better traction but requires better throttle control. Evo requires more force to pull in the clutch. Overall, the evo feels like a sharper tool, more capable but requires more precision from the rider. Evo uses more gas Most of these differences could be from comparing a fresh 300 evo to a well worn 250 Rev3.

I found a picture. A smaller diameter rotor would be easier to fit.

First I set it up and ran it on a milling machine to figure out exactly when it fired. Then, I drilled holes in the stator plate to mount in the right location on the BSA studs. The rotor was bored to the correct size and the key way added. The rotor sat out pretty far so I needed to make a custom mounting nut. After that, it needed various aluminium spacers to get everything spaced correctly. It was interesting from a project perspective but a bit of work if you just want to get something done. It also brings Japanese reliability. The chain saw one was easier because the rotor was aluminium and easier to cut while also being much smaller. The fins were trimmed off. It was a really clean installation because the magneto/ coil was one unit and was mounted in the primary case. The spark plug wire simply came right out of the case. There was just one additional wire for a kill button. I'll look for a picture.

If you have access to machine tools, you can adapt an ignition from something else. Below is a Yamaha PW80 ignition on a 1960 C15. I would send it to you but it probably would not be worth the shipping cost. After this, I ran one from a chain saw or weed eater like the one in the link. The chain saw ignition had a much lighter flywheel but I could not tell the difference. It is an interesting task from the project point of view but these only have about 6 degrees of advance so probably perform like the BSA OEM no battery ignition. It started and ran well. Power was pretty soft on the bottom but once wound up felt about as powerful as a modern 2 stroke 250 trials bike. It was the only pre 65 type bike I had ridden so I have nothing similar to compare it to. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Coil-and-Flywheel-For-Husqvarna-ChainSaw-372-371-365-390-385-AND-XP-NEW-/291636961695?hash=item43e6eae19f:g:pngAAOxyuDpSD4j9

Lineaway...Are you saying you pull the clutch in as the front tire just touches the obstacle and drop it at full fork compression?

I'm at a point where the double blip is not adequate to get up some obstacles. I just can not twist the throttle fast enough. I see the need for a zap with clutch dump but realize that in order to release the clutch, it must first be pulled in. So, when do you pull in the clutch? I have not been able to convince myself to do this when the front wheel is far away from the obstacle. It feels like I'm trying to crash. I can sort of do it after the front wheel has touched (stab and release) but that seems a bit late. Are there any easy progressive ways to learn this? I have no natural tallent for this support so the learning process is slow. What I think I'm doing or trying to do may be quite different from what I'm actually doing.

A friend recently had a Beta 125. The engine response was surprisingly quick, quicker than my 250 rev3. It started easily, had nice suspension and handled well. He did better on it than on his previous 250. It did not have much of a flywheel so he said it does take more use of the clutch. It also felt very light and easy to ride.

In my experience sputtering usually means rich fuel mixture. In the video, it also looked like there was a little black smoke which also means unburned fuel. Was the old plug black? Is the air filter clean? Did the bike previously run well with the current carb settings? (jets, needle position, etc.) Dirt in the system will usually create lean conditions not rich. From what you say, it cleans out at higher rpms. It could be a leaky float needle/ seat or improperly adjusted float. It certainly does not sound like a weak spark but a fully retarded timing may possibly do some thing like that. Could the stator place have come loose and changed the timing?

I have seen where people have rebuilt Gas Gas mid mufflers so decided to give it a go on a Rev 3. There is much less space in the rev 3 muffler between the perforated pipe and the outer housing. The packing was wrapped around the perforated pipe and not in real bad shape so it was a major PITA to remove. Much time was spent tearing and pulling with long needle nose pliers and a wire hook for installing springs. There was a lot of carbon dust/ dirt mixed in with the steel wool. It was replaced with course stainless steel wool from eBay. It was pretty easy to push the new wool back behind the perforated tube. Patches were made from 0.032" 2024 T0 aluminum and riveted on with high temp RTV for sealant. The T0 material is very soft and sort of like thick aluminum foil used in the kitchen. My sheet metal skills are not great so the patches are not pretty but cannot be seen when mounted on the bike. The end result is a quieter bike with smoother off idle power.

The only way to check condition was to open it up but a burn out may have worked. The inner tube and inner portion of steel wool was coated with what looked like tar, basically sealing the inner tube. On this muffler, part of the inner tube was a constant ID. The other has a bulge sort of like a powerbomb shape.

I have seen several posts on repacking mid mufflers, Gas Gas or Sherco. I decided to give it a go on a Rev3 and cut a couple of windows in the pipe. The packing right at the windows comes out OK but the stuff in the back is very difficult to get out. The center, though pipe, is not a lot smaller than the Aluminium housing so there is much less room than what I have seen for Gas Gas and Sherco. To make it worse, the through pipe is made of two pieces like the front exhaust pipe so has a lip where tht two pieces meet. The steel wool packing is wrapped pretty tight. The best method I have found is pullin with one of the hard wire hooks used for installing springs followed by ripping and tearing with long needle nose pliers. This is a very slow porcess. Is there a better way?

Moving the bars back definitely helped.

These clamps mount with a single bolt going down from the top. They were pretty easy to move. I'll try it this weekend. I have thought of higher bars but am quite short with arms on the long side for my height. But, it is worth a try so that could be next.

steve_earle - Thanks, I did not realize the position was adjustable. I'll give that a try.

I weigh 155 lbs. I lowered the fork oil level to the spec for the 125 but it is still stiffer than my old rev3.

Does anyone make rubber mounts or anything similar that would provide some cushion for the bars. Front wheel landings are a bit hard on my arms and casing on a hard rock really sends shock right to the handlebars and into may arms.

How do you get the CDI out of a 2008 Rev 3? It is jammed up in the front of the frame and it is hard to see. Does it jsut slide out of a sleeve? What od you have to remove to get access?

I have a slow leak and would like to try the Sikaflex method. However, I'm in the US and have never heard of Sikaflex. What exactly is it? Is there just one type? If it does not work, can you clean it off and go back to the previous state?

Has anyone found a small battery powered fan that could be mounted to one of the vents in the Airoh? I have looked but found nothing.

I have made bushings for Sherco and Gas Gas out of 660 bronze. There is room to install grease fittings and without seals you can flush the bushings with grease like old usa cars. This eliminates the need to disassemble to grease. I notice no difference in friction but am no high level rider either.