mcman56

Do the Braktec master cylinders require Bractec specific levers? Will Grimeca or other types fit?

How deep is the damage? If not too deep, you may be able to remachine the top surface of the barrel including the o-ring grooves. It would be a simple machining task. You would then run a thicker base gasket to compensate for the shorter barrel. This would alter the port timing a little. A head spacer as sold in the past to reduce compression and soften power would be another way to compensate for the height and it would not alter timing. (I ran a 1/16" head spacer on my daughters Techno with good succcess.) If going with a thicker base gasket, you would want to make sure the threads in the head were still deep enough for the bolts. Worst case, you could run 2 copper washers on each bolt.

Does anyone have advice on how to get used to progressive lenses while riding trials? Or is it a bad idea in general? I have the common failing of close up vision that comes with age. I normally wear progressive lenses but do not wear any glasses to ride or drive on the street or in the dirt. Distance vision is probably starting to fade a little so I started to think wearing glasses to ride may be a good idea and gave it a try. Problem number one is that all obstacles look at least 30% bigger. They really magnify the bottom portion of an obsacle where it first becomes vertical. The second problem is that looking up and down by rotating your eyes produces a different view than rotating your head. (because you are looking though a different portion of the lens) This means that one particular obstacle or line can look two different ways and is disturbing to whatever part of my brain process this and needs to make control decisions. I had a good fall yesterday and think that progressive lenses were at least part of the problem. When first wearing progressive lenses at work, stairs were very difficult in a similar way to what I'm describing for riding. However, I could take them off for stairs before finally adapting.

Not the same animal but I ran a Beta VM26 on an early model C15. Selecting a needle was the hard part. I ended up with a 5F3 needle one step from full lean, 35 pilot and 130 main. The engine had road bike cam with compression around 9:1. This produced a strong idle, smooth mid range and good HP when wound up. By contrast, I could never get a TLR200 carb to run properly. Idle was always rich and felt weak. This bike felt like it had very heavy flywheels so response was much slower that a TLR200 regardless of carb.

The Reflex has a gear in the brake plate that drives the speedo cable. Does anyone know how this comes out? It looks like it is some kind of press fit into a flat bottom hole.

It worked last night but when I tried to place an order this morning I got the message below. I can get to a sub page but get the same message when trying to log on. How do you contact a website owner when the website is down? Secure Connection Failed An error occurred during a connection to trialstribulations.net. SSL received a record that exceeded the maximum permissible length. (Error code: ssl_error_rx_record_too_long) The page you are trying to view cannot be shown because the authenticity of the received data could not be verified. Please contact the website owners to inform them of this problem.

Interesting. I'm in the US and can not connect from PC or phone.

I have not been able to get on Trialstribulations web site for a couple of days. Has something changed or are they just having web site issues? If something has changed, is there someone else that offers Beta parts on line like them?

My 2008 was like that. The bush should be a press fit in the rod and a slip fit on the pin. The crank assembly is the same for the 200 and 250 but the 200 piston uses a smaller pin. The bushing reduces the size and may add weight to help offset for the lighter piston/ pin. The 2008 parts list does not accurately represent this and shows the 125 & 200 using the same needle bearing. Just looking at the list, the bushing is likely 16-22-22. I believe someone (trialsand tribulations ?) sold a needle bearing that may replace the bushing.

Interesting, the peg on that side was bent back a litttle. I straightened it and will give it a try. thanks

It is probably a riding technique error but my Rev3 chain eventually saws a hole through my boot. The swing arm also looks polished in that area on both sides so I must hug the bike a little but never feel interference when riding. My feet are little so it is not a size issue. I had a leather patch sewn on but now it has sawed through that. Can anyone recommend a more permanent fix? Would some kind of plastic work?

You should just be able to jumper the thermal switch and see if the fan comes on. I have had to replace the switch on a much newer Beta.

If they are the same as the 08 rev 3, you need to remove the cartridge on one side and drain it of oil prior to filling the forks with the recommended volume. If not, you will have too much oil. The cartridge also needs to be bled of air during the refill process. The owner's manual states this but it is very easy to miss. The cartridge comes out easily but if you don't want to remove it, you could fill by level instead of volume. The 08 manual shows a level measurement but incorrectly states one side is done with the spring installed. General agreement is that it is done with the spring removed.

My cheepie 30 ton press groaned when pressing apart a C15 crank.

Has anyone changed the oil in a non leaking Rev3 shock? Was there an improvement? Are specs on oil level and gas pressure available?

Level as in oil level below top of fork tube, 60 mm and 120 mm

Under Armour heat gear is the lightest, quickest to evaporate mositure that I have found at least in very hot dry conditions (90 to 105F). It is cooler than the vented (with holes) MX jerseys at elast when riding trials as in going slow.

You are right. I looked at the instructions agaion and the cartridge needs to be removed to be drained. I must have done that last time.

I'm changing fork oil and have some confusion. The manual says 370cc in the right leg. However, with fork and cartridge rod compressed 370 will over flow the tube. Is 370 not correct? (I did pump the rod and fork to purge air.) I plan to set the final volume by the 60 mm height but am concerned that the 370 number is not close. The sad thing is that I have done this before and do not remember.

I have seen a 22 and a 24 and it definitely related to choke size on the ones I saw. The oval bore on the 24 was taller. You can modify the bore of a 22 to match the 24 but also have to take a cut off the top of the slide to get it fully open. The difference in slide height could explain why they cast the numbers on the top plate. I did not get to measure the 24 top plate so maybe they used a shorter stop on the top plate rather than a shorter slide. Could your model have come with a 20 mm carb? (I'm not sure how they get just a diameter for an oval shape.)

From my understanding, US TL125s all use the same basic 22 mm Keihin carb. I have one of an unknown year and a Reflex carb and they are also the same. The big difference is that the Reflex came with a non adjustable needle. To get an adjustable needle, I purchased one of the NOS Keyster carb kits from ebay for an SL125 and the needle fit. (Kester quality does not look as good as Keihin quality.) I see different kits listed for different 125 models but suspect the difference is the jet sizes. This same carb was sold in a 24 mm version. It uses the same casting but the oval bore is taller and therefore symmetric when looking at the engine side of the carb. I don't know what models these came on. Is your carb marked with 22 on top by the cable entrance?

I struggled with this when riding a BSA after being used to a modern bike. I found that purposfully dragging the rear brake slightly in sections tended to activate the part of my brain that realized the brake was on the other side.

Certainly not the same bike but I had a 97 TXT 270 that had a similar throttle response. The little hit seemed top happen just when I did not want it like in a tight turn. An overly rich pilot jet helped a little. The cheapest dual stage Boyseen reeds totally eliminated the little hit and made it smooth from idle on up.

I have used 660 bronze to replace dog bone bearings. On 02 Shercos and GGs you can also fit in grease fittings for regular greasing. If there is additional friction, it is not enough to notice. Some rose joints come threaded for grease fittings but I have not found them in the small size required.

I had a silmilar issue with the helicoils for the rear skid plate mounts on a Rev3. EZ lok worked great. As I remember, the pilot hole size for the EZ Lok was the perfect size to clean out the threads for the helicoil without removing any extra material. (10 mm screw?) It also used a standard sized tap as opposed to some other brands that required special taps.