mcman56

Can anyone explain the differences between the standard Beta clutch and the Factory clutch? What is the advantage of the factory steel clutch plates, the ones with the top hat shape? The 14 parts list shows a different drum for the standard 300 and all of the smaller Factory models? 125 to 250 standard models have a different part number. What is different about the drum? The factory clutch kit on the Beta USA web site comes with a different clutch case. Is it dimensionally different or just hard anodized? The 14 parts list shows nothing special for the Factory. The kit also comes with a slave cylinder. Is it physically different or just a different color? The 14 parts list suggest that the only difference is that it is black.

I'm not sure what the clubman line is but I had one of those and weigh about the same. It did everything OK but go up hill. It struggled on most any kind of a climb. You could use the clutch to lift the front wheel for logs and things but even mild climbs were full throttle with the motor spun all of teh way up

I see there are ti dog bones with grease fittings. How does the grease get to the bearings? Are the bolts drilled through for a grease path? Are they a larger bolt diameter than oem? Are the inner races cross drilled? Are the bearings the same size as oem? Or...how do they work?

American houses have 110 V and 220 V single phase. 220 is generally for dryers, stoves and AC. 220, 230 and 240 generally run on the same power. Our 110 is also called 115 and 120. Businesses generally have 3 phase. I have never tried to get a measurement but suspect that you are right in that energy efficiency is not one of the little heaters advantages. My garage is attached to the house. The back wall and most of the ceiling are covered by the house. The garage doors are insulated and I only run the heater when I'll be in there so it does not run 24/ 7. FWIW, the garage doors face west and temperatures over 100 are common in summer. The insulated doors keep it much cooler in summer.

I have one of these in a 3 car garage and it works quite well. It is small, cheap and powerful but the fan is a bit noisy. With an appliance power cord, you can make an adaptor to plug it into a 220 volt, 30 amp dryer outlet. It is not made to be hung from a ceiling but the top bracket is welded on and holds the weight. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dr-Infrared-Heater-240-Volt-5600-Watt-Garage-Workshop-Portable-Space-Heater-/351536815571?hash=item51d93a1dd3:g:5sAAAOSwKIpWDotD

Same carb is used on a lot of Japanese 80/85 cc MX bikes so other dealers may have them also.

Nice modification. I may try that also. One other issue with that model is the screen size. A couple of riders in this area have been hassled by rangers on public land. I believe the Forest Service requirement is to stop particles larger than 0.03". I have not measured but the hole size in the screen looks larger.

It just slides over a pipe and attaches with a screw through both. On my rev 3, it actually slides over the pipe and into the plastic end cap. The screw is on the tire side and goes through all 3. On my evo, I made a little extender pipe that sticks out through the end cap to accept the arrestor. You may not need the extender pipe.

They show up on ebay periodically and are sold by diameter. See the links below. They have a lot of screen area and pop right off for cleaning. http://www.muttonpower.com/p-10550-john-deere-1025r-spark-arrester-screen-for-muffler.aspx http://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Spark-Arrestor-Kit--AM108146_p_3502.html http://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Spark-Arrester-Screen--AM115838_p_79098.html

I have one of those. To properly clean, you need to remove the muffler end piece and pull it out. I found it to be a PITA and replaced it with one of the little black John Deer type arrestors.

When I first got varifocal glasses, spatial awareness was pretty bad. Walking down stairs was particularly scary and I used to take them off for stairs. Over time I became used to them but still did not wear them for trials. I think your brain learns to interpret what your are seeing. Last year, I started wearing them for trials but struggled. First, they magnify the bottom of obstacles and make them look 30% bigger. Second, looking up and down by moving your head gives a different result than looking up and down moving your eyes. I had a good fall which I think was due to that spatial awareness issue so I stopped wearing them. I tried again while setting up a trial over a period of weeks. I was riding quite a bit but not challenging myself much and sort of adapted. I think your brain just needs a little time to adapt. Prior to using them to ride, I used to wear them most all of the time. When I took them off and started to ride, everything would look rather strange for 10 or 15 minutes and then I would adapt.

Page 27 shows one method. http://www.lewisportusa.com/manuals/sherc_11-21-09/sherco_top_end_maintenance_manual.pdf

I have seen someone start a 300 GG pro in 1st gear but it took a lot of technique. A short mild down hill, a big nose wheelie plus a clutch dump while slamming the back tire into the ground. This was on a bet and not his normal start method.

I have a 300 Beta factory model. It is not under powered but there is nothing abrupt or aggressive about the power band. It is very smooth and easy to ride. I don't know about other brands.

The seal did not fail. There was no leaking of fluid. Interesting comment about new hydraulics. I have a 1988 Hawk NT650 with 63,000 miles and the hydraulics have never been apart, only flushed.

I have a 2014 evo and the rear brake has always felt weak. I finally went to diagnose and found that the brake fluid was black plus there was some black grease like goop around the bladder that fits in the reservoir. I cleaned it up and flushed fluid but then noticed there was a distinct step of resistance in the travel of the plunger. I replaced the cylinder and when I pulled the old one apart found what is in the picture. You can feel those bumps with your finger and it sort of looks like weld splatter. It looks like some is also in the cylinder bore but it is too small to get a good picture. The bore also shows machine marks that are not that smooth. Is simple corrosion the likely cause? Could it have been something bad in the fluid from the factory? This bike has low hours and I live in a dry climate but the retaining ring was quite rusty.

A friend had an early 2002 200. The Gas Gas name was not cast into the cylinder. It is the only one I have seen like that.

Everyone I know uses standard MX style knee pads. I hit one hard enough to crack the hard plastic on the outside so it seems like a good idea to have it there.

any pictures?

Interesting topic. In the US, California, there are no restrictions related to age/ engine size that I know of. You can get a learners permit at 15 1/2 with the only restriction of not being allowed to ride on freeways. So, I believe a 15 1/2 year old kid can ride a 150 hp sport-bike. What does get you is insurance cost. I understand you could spend way more on the road insurance than a new GSXR1000. What I don't know is if the big cost is collision or liability. Liability only tends to be cheap. I'm at the other end of the age spectrum but can road insure 3 bikes with liability only for a little over $100/ year. Some time ago, the insurance companies tried to ban the super high horsepower bikes. However, data showed that the big bikes were underrepresented in crash data. The real crash prone group was the 600cc sport bikes. I suspect a big part of this may be cost. Big horsepower tends to cost big money which young people mostly don't have..

How does it idle? Is the gear oil disappearing?

I did not have this issue but tried a 26 mm OKO on a 250 Rev 3. Build quality is not bad but not quite as good a Keihin. I do understand that there are OKO copies that are poorly made. (copies of copies) The bike ran almost exactly the same. There was just slightly less acceleration when twisting the throttle. Due to the smaller size, there must have been less power at WFO but I never get there riding trials.

I have done this on a Rev3. The small end bush pushes out and the ID of the rod is hard. The 250 bearing slides right in.

I have a 2014 Factory model and noticed that the grommet that is the top mount is broken and there is some play. Is there a way to sneak in a new one or do you really have to pull the entire radiator, hoses, fan, etc.

Thanks for that one. I get the numb fingers too. How often do you do these and for how many reps? Is there a book? By magnesium do you mean mag, cal & zinc tablets? My pain was mostly forearm extensors and elbow. There was lots of arm pump too.