mcman56

I have a 2016 300 4t and it runs OK but sometimes spits and dies when opening the throttle. Yesterday, i even got a very serious spit back through the carb, (80 degrees F). I have had bikes spit the carb right off the manifold with spit backs like that. I pulled the carb today to check jetting and noticed that the big vent for the vacuum slide was not capped off like it should be. There was a little dust up there like it had been off for a while. Could missing the cap create issues I have seen? Otherwise the carb looked clean, 27.5 pilot, 120 main, idle mix 2 1/2 turns out, needle 3 positions from top, standard quiet muffler, I don't know how to tell the difference between slide springs but assume it is the original. I have no other 4t to compare it to but the fan does seem to run a lot and sometimes it is finicky to start when hot so I thought it may be lean. The bike does have extremely low hours so maybe that is why the fan runs a lot. I'll install an adjustable idle mix screw. It seems like the only other option is to raise the needle. Are there any recommendations?

I have run X ring chains on a number of trials bikes including a Rev3 and Evo 2t. A standard O-ring chain fit on a 2002 Sherco. They need little lubrication, no adjusting and seem to last forever so are very convenient. You can buy wider chain tensioners to accommodate. I did not notice any power loss but none of the bikes were under-powered. Anyway, rider skill limits my riding infinitely more than power. But, there is little clearance between sprocket and engine case on the 4t so I'll give the WD40 method a try.

Has anyone run an o ring chain on a 4t? Does it rub on the cases? What front sprocket size do you run? I have a 9 tooth and there is very little clearance between chain and engine case with a non o ring chain. I had a short piece of the skinny RK X ring chain and if I put it on the sprocket and push in on the chain, I can feel it drag on the case when turning the sprocket. The X ring chain is about 0.045" wider than the non o-ring chain (at the link plates not pins)

To clarify, does the Amal 80/200 throttle tube fit into the stock 4T throttle assembly or do you need a complete Amal 80/200 throttle assembly?

Be careful of rotating the kicker forward like that. I had a friend that did that for the same reason and he ended up breaking soothing inside....maybe the gear in question. GG seems to need a very quick kick to spin them fast enough to start.

Lower gearing helps because you need less clutch work. Aloe Vera like this? https://www.amazon.com/Aloe-Vera-King-16-9-Ounce-Bottles/dp/B0040PSRI8/ref=sr_1_2_s_it?s=grocery&ie=UTF8&qid=1523020649&sr=1-2&keywords=aloe%2Bvera%2Bwith%2Borange&dpID=41IEPahWq1L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1 or this? https://www.amazon.com/Dynamic-Health-Aloe-Vera-Orange/dp/B001E1CZ5W/ref=sr_1_29_s_it?s=grocery&ie=UTF8&qid=1523020788&sr=1-29&keywords=aloe+vera+with+orange

I looked at the Beta UK site but see nothing about a mod. Where could I find that? I can see the picture name but no picture. I don't know if the bike was ever jetted. I need to pull the carb and look. I hear pulling the carb is not an easy job are there any recommendations?

Thanks for all of the input. I think I was giving it a quick kick like my two stroke likes. Today, I used the hot start button along with a long slow-ish push down on the kicker and ti was starting reliably..

I had not noticed that piece about the fuel tap. Mine is not the factory model but looking at the chart may run better with the richer competition settings. I'll have to check. What is the best way to get to the mixture screw? The manual implies a straight screwdriver but it points directly at the cases. Do you need one of the aftermarket screws or is at least a good idea? Does idle speed affect starting? The recommended setting seems rather high. Why so high?

I have a new to me 2016 4t. Hot starting is sometimes quick but sometimes takes quite a number of kicks. A tiny bit of throttle seems to help sometimes. Are there any recommendation to improve hot start? I m using the hot start button. quick kick or slow kick....throttle or no throttle...does ignition map switch make a difference...carb tuning ...or

Will a 2008 Rev 3 brake pedal fit an Evo? It looks to be about 1/2 longer and may give a better feel.

I have a new cable and it is not sticky. The pull is relatively easy. When you let the clutch out, there is not much lever travel between start of engagement and full engagement so it is hard to slip the clutch. So, I guess I'm asking if it could be made more like a modern bike clutch.

I am used to a modern bike. When I ride a TY, I try to ride clutch out. Occasionally, a turn is so tight I pull in the clutch to be able to go slow enough to make it or maybe hesitate before continuing. When I go to let it out, it tends to abrupt at the almost zero speed I'm going. It is probably by design but I was wondering if there was a way to improve. I have the smallest front sprocket (11?) and the stock size rear sprocket.

Is there a way to make the TY175 clutch more progressive? I have the clutch extender and put in some heavier oil such that it drags until warmed up. Those two things helped but I'm wondering if there is anything else.

I was able to get it out through the top. However, I could not get it started in the sleeve to put it back. I pulled up this old posting and ended up pulling the radiator to reinstall. Thanks

Betas are known as easy starting bikes. I have a 28" inseam and the kickers are a bit high. I have a 75 year old friend that rides a 125 Beta and a 76 year old friend that rides a 250 but they do not have knee issues. You should try them both if you can. Besides starting, you should consider what flavor of power you want. Response, like when double blipping, on the late model Beta 125s is very quick. I have a Rev3 200 and the response was fairly slow. It had more of a smooth tractor feel to it.

I used a Bultaco Alpina rear wheel. If I remember correctly, all I had to do was make outside spacers to center it in the swing arm. I think the spacers were the same width on each side. The chain was straight and there was clearance but not very much. I have since sold the bike so have nothing to measure. I was amazed how heavy the original brake hubs were on this bike. It was a street bike but the brakes looked like they came from a small car.

Probably not what you want to hear but I had a similar issue with a C15. Under close inspection, I could see that the cast swing-arm mount was slightly twisted on the frame. I made up some mounts so I could bolt the frame to a bike carrier and used a long (6' maybe) bender bar with pin to pull it straight. It took a lot of force but worked out OK and stayed in place. The only negative was that I did hear one "tink" as it moved. I took a lot of measurements yet never really came up with a great datum or measurement method so it was mostly by eye. After straightening, I had adequate clearance for a 428 chain and small chain guard. While I was at it, I checked the flatness of the swing arm on a surface plate and one leg was higher that the other. As I remember, it was easily straightened when gripped in a vise.

With all of the complaints about hydraulics on modern trials bikes, has anyone tried retrofitting with something like KX65 brakes. Japanese components are very reliable but would MX brakes have the feel needed in trials? KTM50 brakes must be pretty tiny too. Would they be as light as trials components.

A lanyard from anything with a battery powered ignition should work. You need one that is normally closed. Street bikes use them at the drag strip. Do watercraft use battery powered ignitions?

Interesting! Did coming up with the kit involve a lot of experimentation with porting or was it just a drop on?

I wonder why they only made big bore kits for Gas Gas http://trialendurodirect.com/product/s3-gas-gas-pro-225cc-kits/

I have a friend that rides a Beta 125 just for that reason. It is surprisingly powerful for a 125 and has very quick response, even at elevation.

lineaway - The link is interesting. What type of electric device do you use and what type of issues does it help. I do use an Armaid and it has helped tremendously but I started getting sore again lately. I have used just for massage but the link shows more of a pressure treatment. https://armaid.com/collections/frontpage/products/armaid-extreme I will try the other suggestions also. Where can I buy some confidence?

Riding is hard on my arms. My forearms get pretty sore and can stay that way, mostly the extensors. Are there any techniques or tips to help a person ride with less arm and more leg? Just trying to use less arm does not seem that effective. I do exercise and stretch my forearms so believe this is a technique issue more than a fitness issue. Age does not help.