mcman56

I bought one of the ones I asked about and finally installed it. It is exactly the same. It even has the exact mold number cast in. https://domino-usa.com/shop/off-road/throttle-controls-off-road/4t-throttle-controller-ktm5065/

4t has 2 thick plates that can be swapped out for thin plates. Still, I don't think it can be made as as progressive as the 2t clutch

Where do you get green skf seals?

Do TY175 forks normally have a lot of stiction, compared to a modern bike? I disassembled, cleaned inside, polished fork tubes, installed new seals/ wipers and used the recommended quantity of ATF. Pushing down on the individual tubes by hand they feel OK. However, when mounted on the bike, there is a lot of stiction and they feel stiff. I did try to align by tightening fasteners progressively with fork pumping in between. The forks have more rake than a modern bike so there is more side ways force to create stiction so maybe that is it. I used Allballs seals and they have a very tight seal to tube fit so that probably does not help.

most likely Min = pilot jet size and Max = main jet size Although I think the factory recommended mains are a little bigger

When draining my oil I found a thin washer/ shim attached to the magnetic part of the drain plug. There have been no unpleasant sounds or performance issues. The oil looked normal and without metal shavings. The inside of the oil filter looks OK. The washer was folded with some linear rub/ wear marks but not horribly chewed up. At the last oil change I did have the oil pump removed. The parts diagram shows a thrust washer in that location so it is suspect that it did not go back together correctly. However, it is the wrong size for that location. The parts list shows that one as 8.2 x 15 x .05. but the one I found is 12 x 17 x 0.35. Does anyone know what this may be?

The hot start button can help starting but mine can snap shut during the kick. Sometimes I hold it open with one hand while kicking. I pulled the valve out, cleaned and inspected but see nothing wrong. Is there a trick too keep it from closing on its own?

I had a 2014 US model Factory 300 with standard throttle and that is exactly how I would describe it. It was noticeably slower reving than 250s I tried with slow action throttles. However when/ if you reved it up, it made a lot of power so if the throttle really gets away from you sometimes, it may not be a good idea. It was probably up around 4000 rpm that it showed its teeth but the power was still very linear. I'm also an average rider at best so never had a reason to rev it up. The one thing I did not like about the bike was that it took a very serious kick to get it going. I don't mean to imply that it was a hard starting bike, just that it took a lot of force on the kicker to get it to turn over. This can be a personal problem. I'm short and only 155 lbs so the kicker was almost hip height and it was difficult to get my weight over it. That is really the only complaint I hear about 300 Betas. I did get a ride on a 2018 300 super smooth and the most shocking thing was how easy it was to kick. It could have been the low compression head or maybe even porting. I did not ride it long enough to compare power delivery. As Timdog says, you could consider a Beta 300 4T. Off idle torque is very strong and revs seem to pick up slower than 2 strokes.. It will rev high but is the opposite of the 300 2t at high revs in that it becomes kind of fluffy on top and can not seem to produce that "get away from you" feeling. Power feels slower, more like a push than a hit. As an older guy, I think it makes riding easier on my body and less tiring.

Does someone sell OEM style TY175 handlebars? They are pretty tall and some people call them ape hangers. They also have no cross bar support.

Is the new throttle actually faster? I saw a Beta advertisement suggesting it was slower.

Can you buy a Beta 4t throttle tube by itself somewhere? I see the whole throttle assembly on line but not just the tube. Do the quads using the same carb use the same throttle? Could this be it? https://domino-usa.com/shop/off-road/throttle-controls-off-road/4t-throttle-controller-ktm5065/

Where can you get one of them?

Where do you get Mercedes-Benz wrenches? Did they come with tool kits at one time?

It looks like a 2001 I have in the garage. However, the bike is together so I can not see all of the details.

What color spark plug are people getting on their Beta 4t? I have a 2016 300 with standard muffler. With 115 main, 20 pilot, mid needed (white plastic space below) and idle mixture 1 turn out, plug is powdery looking black. Riding at sea level at 60 to 90 degrees F, it runs OK but it seems the plug is way too dark yet jetting is lean compared to what I see others are running.

I agree with B40T. start bike, make sure you have some open space in front, give the bike a little roll forward with your foot and ride 10 or 20 feet with clutch in until it clears. A little blip of the throttle should do the trick. Some modern bike clutches stick too.

Does anyone know the fork oil volume or height for a 2001 Rev 3? Is it the same as a 2008? Is there a place to get a 2001 operator manual?

I stretched the caliper and installed a KX65 brake disc (180 mm vs 160 mm) and got a more powerful brake. Still, initial feel was not as good as I wanted. Next I noticed that if I put my heel on the peg it felt pretty good when braking. This probably only applies to us wee people with small feet (size 9). I have been wearing boots with heels and noticed it felt better with the heel shoved up tight against the rear of the foot peg. Comparing a Rev 3 to the Evo, front of foot peg to brake tip distance is about the same. However, the Evo has wider pegs so with heel, it forces your foot about 1/2" further back. I took BM1200s advice and bought the Jitsie pedal. It does come farther back so I'm hoping that will do the trick.

I looked at 2 bikes yesterday. 2016 Beta master cylinder has Beta cast in. A 2019 Beta Factory has what I think is a Brachtek symbol cast in and boasts of better brakes. Calipers looks the same except that the factory caliper has some dot matrix pattern on the back with numbers. 2019 felt better. Still, what can really be different? They look to be the same size. A bigger piston would move more fluid but have less psi (pounds per square inch). A smaller piston would move less fluid so would require more travel but would have more psi so maybe that would be the direction.

The REV3 rear disc is 5 mm bigger in diameter. I tried comparing the REV3 pedal to the evo pedal. The REV3 does look longer but there are so many curves it i shard to put a number on it. I believe other brands like Gas Gas actually have smaller discs

Are there any new learnings to improve the evo rear brake? I had a 14 Factory with weak rear brake and tried everything, all kinds of pads, new disc, replace master cylinder and caliper with latest (2017 or 18?) Still it remained much the same. It did not feel spongy, just weak. If you stomp on it, it will stop but it is not easy to finesse in technical situations. Now I have a 2016 evo that is the same. Others have had a similar experience. My rev3 rear brake was vastly superior. I have ridden 2019 and maybe 2018 models that have quite nice rear brake feel but when I look at all of the hardware, it looks the same. ?????

Standard factory recommendations seem to be 1 to 1.5mm

I find pulling with vacuum from the bleeder nipple to be the most effective. When changing fluid you can just keep it always full so there is no air to bleed. I also use the push with syringe method and the pump and release method. Sometimes I think the different methods help get bubbles out of different places when it does not go well. Still, bleeding hydraulics on a trials bike, particularly starting with a dry rear caliper, can be a very frustrating job. In addition to methods and techniques, I often feel that there is some sort of higher power that requires a certain level of emotional suffering from the mechanic before allowing those last few bubbles to exit.

Starts and runs fine until riding to sections then smokes excessively If the exhaust is full of oil, it may catch fire and smoke excessively when riding to sections. It will also run funny and have a weird smell, sort of like a rancid barbecue. You could be burning off the oil that built up from the bad seals. There are some posts on here about cleaning out the exhaust. Another way is just to run it hard and keep a lot of heat in the exhaust until it burns out. This could be a long ride at the speed it starts smoking on the way to sections or a nice long hill climb. Repeat until it stops smoking.

What drugs could help trials riding?