mcman56

I have a 2008 Rev3 200 and the response is quite soft. I ran it with a 250 top end for a while and it did have more power but the response was still soft. It has the fast throttle and Keihin carb. Everything is in good shape and overall it runs good. It does have the Boyesen dual stage reeds. Could a reed change make a significant improvement in response? There is no add on flywheel weight. I have thought about shaving weight off of the flywheel but am concerned about making an expensive paperweight. I recently had a 2016 Beta 125 apart. It has a little tiny flywheel and impressive response for a 125.

You should find pictures on the web of what is inside. I cut a hole in a beta mid pipe and the steel wool packing was still in place. It was just caked with black goo and not easy to pull out. I repacked with steel wool and used some super soft aluminium plate to cover the hole. Silicone and rivets held it in place. I don't remember the allow you it formed as easily as aluminium foil. If you have good AL welding skills, a bigger hole would make it much easier

I agree with Tony27. I have come to the conclusion that the sweet off idle power of a new bike is totally due to a clean exhaust. I replaced the exhaust on an 02 Sherco and immediately got that new bike response....... for a while.

If you need to keep it from turning this will help. https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0427-Gear-Jammer/dp/B001AVS60O I have no experience with a 2004 but other years are all right hand threads.

Are you losing oil from the transmission? 2T oil build up in the exhaust will catch fire when the exhaust really heats up running under load. It also smells different from normal exhaust smell, sort of like a barbecue. If you just ride sections and then one day go off on a long hill climb, lots of smoke is expected.

konrad Thanks for that picture of how dimple. Can you share details on diameter and depth? Do you use a CNC or are you super patient?

Thanks for the reply. Do you know which model of the PHDS clamps you used? It looks like there are 2. It looks like the 790 fits with bolts coming up from the bottom but I don't know if the picture is correct. I would need something with bolts coming down from the top. https://www.ebay.com/p/KTM-Powerparts-PHDS-Progressive-Handlebar-Dampening-System-Supports-79001939500/735415457?iid=322420539044&chn=ps KTM PowerParts PHDS Handlebar Mounts79001939500 KTM PowerParts PHDS Handlebar MountsSXS.07.125.200

Has anyone bought or made cushioned or rubber mount handle bar risers for trials? I have the Beta Factory fork clamps so do have removable risers. I'm already running Jitsie bars which flex more than the OEM Beta bars. The KTM PHDS mounts certainly look like they would fit but the official email response was "no". I also would not know what model to order. https://www.motosport.com/ktm-powerparts-phds-handlebar-mounts Mako 360 is another option but I have not gotten a response from them. https://xcgear.com/mako-360/ Flexbars look like they move in just one plane so when pushed forward trials style probably would not help much. https://www.fasstco.com/ I also have a rev 3 with cast in clamps but don't know how you could do those without changing the top clamp.

I recently rode a TY175 with the B&J full engine mods. I don't know what all of the mods are but performance was extremely impressive. More power everywhere, much better response yet still silky smooth and pulls to extremely low rpms. I have ridden a TY with modified frame and another that was ported but they seemed at most a little different from stock. This was a whole different animal.

Like he said. I believe they are the US experts on this.

It seems to be the accepted method for Honda tin can cranks.

I have run that chain on a Rev3 and the narrow RK on a Sherco and Evo. The RK was slightly narrower, about 0.015". Sherco had plenty of room. The Rev3 and Evo were quite tight and I had to run the master link backwards for extra brake pedal clearance. They basically last forever, require little lubrication and don't need regular adjustment. Since he chain does not wear, sprockets seem to last forever also. They will saw their own clearance in the chain guide but V Mar makes a wider one specifically for O ring chains. http://www.vmar.com/chain-guide.html

Someone suggested I could use a chop saw to cut the big end pin to get it apart. Once the rod is off, it should not be difficult to support and press out what is left of the pin. Looking ahead, what happens if I press the crank too tightly together. Is there a way to correct or would I be back to the same problem but now have a big paperweight? It is for a friends bike and I'm not finding a local shop that does these.

I have heard rumors that the latest model Evo has some minor change that makes it easier to find neutral. It sounded like a minor parts change. Does anyone have details?

I see what you mean. Do you know what the proper tooling looks like? I have seen pictures of 1/4" angled steel to go through the center as a base for pressing. With that, it looks like I could make a split ring/ spacer to sit on the flat area around the rod. This spacer could support from angle to crank wheel. 1/4" does not sound like much but there is only about 9 mm between the wheels.

You can put the thermostat in water on the stove and heat. You should get continuity before water boils.

Search Craigslist for Trials. There is a nice Beta on there now but it would be a drive for you. Lewisport is the biggest dealer and worth a call. You can also go to a Sac PITS event to see if any are for sale.

lineaway - Can you elaborate? It there nothing square to the pin to push on? I have not split the cases yet but do see quite a bit of plastic on the crank.

Are rod kits difficult to install on modern 2 strokes (Beta 125)? The only one I have installed was on a BSA C15. It was very old and rusty. My cheap 30 ton press groaned pushing it apart but got the job done. Any recommendations?

I can mention a couple of hard to find ignition issues I have encountered and a diagnostic idea. A friends Beta recently quit running. It would sort of start and die. I checked the carb. And then looked at wires. The power wire to the coil had a little cut in the insulation like someone screwed up when installing the connector. There were some signs of arcing. It got taped up but it was not the issue. I unplugged the kill switch and it was the same but I noticed a flickering light inside the connector on the bike side of the wiring when kicking/ running. I broke the connector open and found the two pins burnt due to arcing. I replaced the connector and all was good. I don't know how I would have found that without seeing the arcing. I never would have suspected something inside the connector of the main wiring harness. A continuity check at that connector could be a good idea but if it is intermittent may not be found. I had a little kids bike that would start and run fine but start to miss under heavy load. I found a bare wire under the flywheel. It was not touching so worked OK until the voltage got high enough and jumped the gap. It is not easy but If you have access to a lathe or mill, it is possible to set up the ignition system on that and run it off the bike. A drill press may work too. The stator needs to be properly positioned in the flywheel. (not much clearance to play with) Plug in CDI, coil and spark plug. Ground the side of the plug and use the machine to spin the flywheel. You can observe performance and a timing light can be used to look for consistent timing. If you mark the flywheel and stator to identify some degrees before center, you can see if timing is close.

Could the flywheel be loose and changing position?

When I first went to a bike with powerful front brakes, I struggled. To make them more progressive, someone suggested cutting an X in the pads with a hack saw. It worked.

At least on the 2016, there is a bracket holding a group of connectors right on top of the carb. (seen if you remove the fender) These are not very tight connections. Twice after changing jetting, I have had issues. Once the fan did not work and once the fuel solenoid did not work. I probably bumped the connectors when pulling the carb but upon inspection they appeared to be making good contact but in fact were not. Reseating the connectors was the cure. Since not very secure, they could be suspect for water contamination.

I once bought a 250 Techno that ran like that. It started and ran fine but lacked power. It ran sort of like a TLR200 but would rev a lot higher. When I pulled it apart, I found that the bottom of piston skirt on the exhaust side was bent in, maybe a 1/4" up from the bottom. It even had a crack but did not break off. It must have created a leak from the crankcase to exhaust pipe at TDC. I assume someone was turning the crank with the cylinder off and managed to wedge the piston into something. A new piston was the cure. I assume a shorter than stock piston could have a similar affect. An impact gun will also remove the flywheel nut without the need to hold the flywheel steady. Some people will paint a line on the nut and flywheel before removal so they know how tight it needs to be. They will then use an impact gun to reinstall to the same spot. That seems a bit risky to me so I prefer a torque wrench to reinstall. If you can drill some holes, you can make up your own "special device" that bolts to the holes used to mount the flywheel weight. Just be very careful not to thread and bolts any deeper than the thickness of the flywheel. The stator come up pretty close to the inside of the flywheel and could get damaged.

A friend had a Gas Gas stator done here: http://www.rickystator.com/page/rewinds Does a 2003 rev 3 have an advance curve? I have checked a couple. A 97 techno did but an 08 Rev 3 did not.