mcman56

I have had that issue at least twice. Each time, the threads that hold the helicoil were damaged and attempts to replace it with a new helicoil failed to hold. I used an E-Z-LOC to repair. See link. There are a number of companies that make things like this but if I recall correctly this was the only one that would fit. The others had a larger OD and there is not enough material in the frame to go much larger. I'm now very careful to keep bolts into helicoils tight so they do not get a chance to move around a create damage. https://www.amazon.com/E-Z-LOK-Threaded-Insert-M8x1-25mm/dp/B00208KRQ2

I made a tool by putting a couple of dowel pins at the right distance in a bar of 1/4" aluminium. The cap was pretty loose so maybe even a pair of needle nose pliers would work.

I agree with pschrauber on riding style, particularly for an older rider probably set in his ways. Not that it has the same capability but I actually find the TY175 easier to ride than a modern bike for a couple of reasons. First, on a modern bike I'm frequently using both brakes, clutch and throttle. My TY175 is geared so low that there is engine braking and almost all control is throttle only. Brakes are needed for steep down hills. I find the clutch to be kind of grabby so stick mostly to clutch out riding. With throttle only riding, there is just one variable to control. This is easier mentally and physically. Second, on a modern bike I can use all of those controls plus force on the bars to sort of force the bike through full lock turns. With thumb arthritis and some forearm issues, this can beat me up a bit. If I try and force the TY like that, I can not keep the front end from washing out so have learned not to. I put much less force in the bars and have even learned to lighten my grip on a modern bike so it is easier on my body. This is not to say others can not force the front end and I would expect modified frames to allow that but this is just my experience as an average rider on a stock frame geometry bike. Being so short, the TY will turn as tight as a modern bike except maybe when you need to stop mid turn. Several people tell me that they can turn sharper on a TY175 than a modern bike. The power is so soft that is easier to avoid little power surges that tend to push the front wheel wide when doing tight turns on a modern bike. With just 4" of suspension travel, the rear suspension is quite a bit more harsh which can beat you up a bit on a loop and sharp obstacles. I would like to give a TY125 4 stroke a try. Would a Bultaco weigh more like 98 kg?

TY175 is almost as light as a modern bike. They start very easily and are easy to ride.

In addition to making it easier to kick, the extra 1 mm of base gasket softened the engine response a bit. I also think it quieted the exhaust pop, pop, pop a bit. None of the changes are night and day differences but all noticeable and worth doing if you want that type of change. I'll probably remove the flywheel weight..

Well, The 250 top end is marked with an 02 on the side and I ran it on a 2008 Rev 3 but it does not match the 2001 engine. The 250 cylinder has an extra port on the side for a coolant hose from the water pump. It looks like the 01 runs water through the cases and up into the cylinder. The 250 cylinder still has ports down to the cases so may work if I just plug up that extra port. I have to think about that some more so decided to reassemble with the 270 top end and an extra 1 mm of base gasket. I have not been out for a ride yet but It does seem easier to kick...... although I don't have anything to compare it to.

See picture. A thicker head gasket would be hard to make unless you had a friend with a CNC. I believe a company makes custom copper head gaskets for the drag race crowd but I have not looked into it. I'm guessing they are laser cut and they would want a CAD file. The easy path would be extra base gaskets. Technos and Gas Gas use o rings for head gaskets so it is much different. The spark plug hole is central to the cylinder head dome so it is easy to set up in a lathe but removing material is permanent and if you go too far you can hit the water ports. I have ridden 2 different 300 super smooths and they were both very easy to kick, nothing like the standard 300 2t but published compression ratios are the same. If you could find out what makes them so easy to kick, maybe it could be duplicated. (I would like to know.) Some people have claimed that all 300s sold in the UK are super smooths but I don't know if that is true. Could different porting do that? The super smooths were also very soft off the bottom. Rev and Evo engines are pretty much the same so what works for one would likely work for the other. I have an 02 270 and it looks like the same bike as yours except for the USD forks. It is hard to kick, loud and the off idle power is pretty sharp, sharper than I remember on my 300 Factory 2t. I'm in the process of installing a 250 top end to see if that helps. Lewisport is the local trials bike dealership. Capitol Yamaha is a Beta dealer and can get parts. You just need to get a parts list and order by part number. My air filter looks the same and I got one from Trials Super Store. Beta Uk has a great on line ordering system but for some reason shipping has recently jumped from 5 or 10 pounds to 35 pounds. Rev3s are not bad bikes. Having a green sticker bike makes it legal to ride at Prairie City in summer and it is a big advantage to have a local riding area.

The Clark tank is similar in size and shape to the OEM Yamaha tank. It uses a clamp for mounting so no need to add any holes to the frame. It looks good for a dirt bike tank but is no great work of art.

Clark Manufacturing (in the US) 11336 Universal Center mount tank fits quite well. You can special order in Yamaha yellow. I have a banged up but not leaking OEM tank if you are interested in refurbishing. https://clarkemfg.com/catalog/universal/universal-center-mount/

Is there a way to soften an Evo shock, 2016 4t? (I have the adjustment at full soft.) The manual lists an oil so a thinner oil may do the trick. But, I don't see a pressure valve. Can the oil be changed? I just put thinner oil in the forks at a 5 mm lower level and like the feel. At 152 pounds and a non aggressive riding style, I suspect softer is better.

I run a tubeless Dunlop 803GP tire with tube on an OEM TY175 rim. It fits and works with no problems. A riding buddy runs them also. He did mention that the tire does seem to turn on the rim over time.

The idle circuit sounds like it is right on the edge of lean. I suggest: clean the idle circuit with a carb cleaner, be sure to remove the idle mixture screw and pilot jet to spray through all passages, then follow up with compressed air. Look though the pilot jet to make sure it is not plugged. While it is apart you might as well clean everything. the mixture screw is an air screw. try adjusting it in progressively. Don't go below one turn out. Go up one size on the pilot jet. (you could check first to see if you have the factory recommended pilot jet size)

The US 2014 Factory 300 model I had came with: machined, not cast fork clamps Titanium head pipe white painted master cylinders for clutch and front brake fancy red chain adjuster snails

I was able to get an owners manual pdf for a 2001 by emailing Beta. support@betamotor.com The Evo engine is almost exactly the same so the engine manual works for the 2002. https://betausa.com/content/SUPPORT_PDF's/2009-2015 Evo 2 stroke Engine.pdf

The 200 evo does have some nice features. It is very easy to kick and starts very easily. (sort of like a TY175) You never see someone struggling to get one started. They are about 15 lbs lighter than the 4rt. From what I have read they turn tighter and have more ground clearance than the Honda. They are actually easier to care for; no valve adjustments, no oil filters, no expensive oils. If you go back and forth between your modern bike and TY, it would likely be an easier adaptation with the 200 evo as opposed to a 4t. Evos do have weak rear brakes but some are OK so I don't understand. Front brakes seem fine to me. (average rider). Hondas do have superior build quality but the Beta has good build quality. I don't know anyone having issues due to Beta build quality. I did break a front fender when the bike fell over on the stand but I don't know anyone who has had a lot of plastic breakage issues. Then again, I generally ride with people who fall down sometimes as opposed to more aggressive riders who have wild crashes on a regular basis..

I'm in the US. Your response implies that knee guards are not worn in the UK. Do your bikes come with some kind of "don't fall in the rocks" option? I could really use an option like that.

Are any knee guards/ pads available that provide good side protection for knees, both inside and outside? I have a bad habit of hitting both of those areas. EVS Option was the best I could find that wrapped a bit around the inside and outside but I'm limping around today from a hit to the inside of my knee when falling down in a rock pile. Any input or recommendations would be helpful I have seen some that look like socks with foam but they don't look to have any kind of hard plastic shell. How do they survive sharp rocks? Are they hot. Summers are quite warm here but protection can be more important. I have seen others that have good coverage but have pivot bolts on the sides where I'm looking for protection. Are your knees adequately protected from those pivot bolts? I would not want one driven into the side of my knee like a nail. https://www.evs-sports.com/products/option-knee-pad?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&utm_source=digitalthrottle&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=13698508&gclid=Cj0KCQiA34OBBhCcARIsAG32uvMDaYXz7f6KgHmCEZ7B_X8OQS3WqWSe-WYAGA20xgeScLgEhGkt1ogaAnyrEALw_wcB

That does not sound like my chain tensioner sound. The tensioner was a higher pitch, sort of a tink vs that click.

Does your tappety noise sound sort of like a busy sewing machine or is it more of a tink-tink-tink with the pitch of a small ball peen hammer hitting a hard metal surface? Is it just noticeable and only at idle? Mine had the tink sound and so did the only other Beta 4t I got to listen to. I traced it to the cam chain tensioner. They have a very small spring. The sound was still there with a new tensioner so I went to a manual tensioner and it went away. When you look at the tensioner, the ratchet mechanism is made of hardened steel so I think it was designed to sort of bang away while the chain tries to flap around. I think it is normal and does not hurt anything but found it annoying. Probably the only reason you can hear it is that the rest of the engine and standard muffler is so very quiet.

Don't get the news EVS elbow guards. The straps are quite short, barely big enough for average size arms.

The oddest kill button related issue I have seen was on a buddies 2016 Beta. A shop had connected a lanyard type switch and it worked OK for a while but then quit. When kicking, it would try to fire a couple of times and then stop. In the process of diagnosing, I was kicking it over with the button disconnected and noticed arcing inside the connector on the bike side. (how lucky was that) It looked fine from the outside but somehow, the shop had damaged the connector internally to create an intermittent short. I replaced the connector with soldered wires and all was good. If I had not noticed the arcing, I can't imagine how I would have found that issue.

I have been wondering about this. How do you set up a slider in a lathe? All of the external surfaces are non-precision as-cast surfaces. How is the slider held and how do you get the bore aligned straight and centered?

Interesting comments. What is this air box kit? Which Gas Gas kickstand fits? Does it use a different mount? I tend to hit the Beta 4t kickstand bracket on steps. It creates a burr and then the kick stand does not rotate easily.

A sheared key and rotated flywheel could alter timing and have a similar result.