mcman56

Is the plug wet or dry? If it was sitting, I would recommend complete carb clean plus fresh gas. Check that air filter looks OK. With spark plug removed and grounded, check for spark when kicking. When running properly, most of these bikes like to start cold with full choke and no throttle. If the plug is dry, you could try laying the bike on its side with fuel tap open until some gas runs out of the carb. If there is a fuel shortage, that should get it primed so then give it a number of kicks. You may need some throttle here. If it starts and runs for a little but then dies, it reinforces the need for a carb clean. If plug is wet, you can try some kicking with petcock off, choke off and throttle wide open to clear.

I'm not sure if this helps but there is an aftermarket CDI/ coil available for some years, 2003 to 2008. https://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/2003-2008-beta-270-rev-3-cdi-unit I had one as a spare on a 2008 Rev 3 200. It ran the same as the OEM ignition. The bike is gone but I still have the spare. The web site list the same part number for 200, 250 & 270. https://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/2003-2008-beta-200-rev-3-cdi-unit Another source https://www.hpi.be/item.php?item=CD13201

I have used duplicolor engine paint with good success on engine casings and it is not sensitive to petrol. It came out beautiful even with my crap spray skills. One color even matches old OEM engine cases. https://www.duplicolor.com/product/engine-enamel-with-ceramic/ Rustoleum high heat paint looks great on the exhaust and has not been affected by petrol. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/specialty-paints/high-heat?ls=248903&lc=Flat Black In both cases I bead blasted, used the recommended primer, applied at the recommended temperature and allowed to cure before touching. Recommended application temperature can be a challenge depending on the season so I applied outside at mid day and then stored inside to maintain the temperature during cure. Exhaust application temp is 50 deg F and engine application temp is 60 degrees F. No high temp cure was used on either because it was not recommended. Both have been flushed with leaking petrol and there has been no affect.

This is for a 250

Twist throttle and quickly release. Can you hear slide hit the stop?

Once I used the lightest oil I could find, my TY175 forks felt pretty good as far as spring rate and damping was concerned. However, there is still a lot of stiction and the forks are not very compliant over little bumps. A friends TY with 250 forks looks and feels much more compliant on small stuff. Are the 250 forks more compliant for some reason. (They are hard to find.) Can the 175 forks be improved in this area? My fork tubes were a bit scratched up but repaired with JB Weld and much polishing. They do not leak. I was advised to get the "green" fork seals but could not find them in this small size. Has anyone tried fitting bushes in the lower legs? How difficult is it to set the legs up on a lathe? It does not look like an easy task. Are modern Teflon coated bushes available to fit the tubes? I could not find any.

Does someone sell a 13 tooth front sprocket for the TL250? I have a 14 and see 12 t for sale but no 13. I have spent some time on the bike now. It works well for such a heavy bike but it is not smooth when rolling on and off the throttle like when snaking slowly through trees with tight turns. There is a lot of engine braking with throttle off and as soon as the slide lifts a surge forward. I went from a very quick MX type throttle to an Amal trials throttle with no real change to this. The engine does not spin up quickly like it needs more flywheel. I'm thinking lower gearing may help in those slow on/ off parts. I have the stock gearing and am thinking lower gearing may help smooth out that transition.

These guys can probably help http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/TY-Yamaha.html

The Reflex shocks will not fit. With stock shock mounts and stock spring diameter you would be lucky to get 10 mm longer shocks to fit. The problem is that they hit the muffler. I'm guessing that is the reason for the shock mount modification.

Try a clear vent line. Believe it or not, my 2016 Evo gas cap vent was actually auto siphoning. It had a clear vent line and you could see alternating bubbles and gas coming up even when stopped after running. I was pointed to a posting that I can no longer find describing the issue. I disassembled, cleaned, reassembled and the issue was gone. I had to be quite brutal to pry the cap apart and thought it was going to break it but did not. IIRC there were 2 springs and 2 valves in the cap. It was clean inside with nothing obviously wrong. I'm guessing that some of the little parts got out of position created the situation. There was a recommendation for a CSP cap but at the time they only fit 2018 and later.

I have had good results with that brand. Even though I live in a relatively dry climate, rust is usually the killer of frame bearings.

I'm running a Dunlop tubeless tire with tube on a TL250. It has new rim locks tightened as tight as possible. Looking at the valve stem, the rear tube is rotating on the rim. I assumed this must be the tire rotating but I marked the tire/ rim before last ride and it is not. The valve stem is noticeably angled with only one very mild ride. See pic with line and stem from one ride. The line is from black marker to black marker and not related to raised line on tire. This is strange. Is there a fix? To recenter valve stem, I have been doing a number of deflation and inflation cycles with a tightened valve stem nut and it does straighten out. I had a TY175 do the same thing and I assumed it was the tire turning on the rim but now I don't know. It eventually stopped doing it.

A buddy just bought one of these bikes and I do find the button odd for RB. I have a 2018 Triumph tiger with an electronic throttle. I believe it is a hall effect sensor type device but it has a spring loaded switch that is triggered when pushing the throttle closed. On that bike, it is used to cancel cruise control but it would seem ideal to trigger regenerative braking on the EM bikes. Is anything like that available? The Domino throttle does have an unused switch but it may be to ensure no no movement due to electronic noise with throttle closed. Maybe like a kill switch. It is not clear to me.

I'm tempted to buy a new 2022 EM and see they have a couple trials models. I have ridden an epure race and liked it but am not sure I would ever use the clutch. Has anyone ridden the other model with traction control? Is the traction control useful? I'm no beginner but no expert either?

Sorry, I meant 240/ minute. Thanks for this info

Does it have a flywheel weight? If so, removing it should make it much sharper on the bottom. I read somewhere that all UK models come with the weight and are what is sold as the Super Smooth in the US. I'm not sure if that is true. Although, I had a 2014 Evo Factory 300 2t with no weight and it was very soft on the bottom. It was quite powerful when wound up. The response was slower than the 250 or even 125. The 125s had a little tiny flywheel so even though it lacked displacement, the response was quick.

TLR200/ Reflex shocks are 15". Someone lent me a pair to try but I'm recovering from some surgery so have not gotten to them yet.

Very interesting. I'm not very electronically literate but looked up some detail on this and it is frequency dependent. Does that mean is softens the response because it does not immediately react to throttle movement and wants to see it set at some position for a time period before reacting? For example, I'll guess that the twitch is 240 cycles/ second. Could resistor- capacitor sizes be calculated that would filter it out? My buddy should get his bike soon. Is that how noise filters on sound systems work?

I tried one on a 250 Rev 3. It was quite a while ago but as I recall, it a produced a very smooth low end power. The bike would pull to very low RPMs and would take large throttle openings at low RPMs. Response was similar to a very small pick up with a 4 cylinder diesel engine. Somewhere on the net was calculations or maybe recommendations on the appropriate volume. I believe I used a spacer between carb manifold and reeds to connect the bottle. (I may have tried it before and after reeds.) At the time someone suggested it was really the spacer having the effect but I don't know. The Mikuni manifold was 1/2" shorter than the Keihin manifold. I used the Mikuni manifold with spacer and Keihin so the overall length remained the same.

I once had an odd noise like that and it turned out to be the chain tensioner pivot.

I don't have a picture but if it is the small hose from the hot start button it goes to the air box. IIRC, it connects next to the crankcase breather near the carb to engine boot.

Would anyone have a source or a design for a TL250 compression release? A valve lifter type release was sold in the 70s for XL350/ 250 that should also fit a TL250.

Viton seals are usually but not always brown and that looks brown. I see that it says Gas Gas on the bearing and it looks quite wide in the picture. Is it a roller bearing? Why did Gas Gas go to the trouble of a custom bearing? Is there a ball bearing on the other side?

How did that happen?

If the bearing is stuck in the case, use something like a heat gun on the case. (Aluminium expands more than steel when hot.) There is a tool made for pulling the case off. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-crankcase-splitter-p