mcman56

My 2008 had a magnesium side cover that was eaten away by corrosion in the water pump area. I believe the replacement part was aluminium.

I recently noticed a squeak at the rear wheel of a modern Triumph Tiger while lubing the chain. I could feel no drag and nothing had been changed. It turned out to be a dry seal on the outside of a wheel bearing. A little Teflon spray on the seal got rid of the squeak.

Pictures and details were helpful The kickstand on the TY250A does make it a bit crowded but at least it is easy to figure out placement. There were not many options.

I checked and valve clearances are good. The carb is a nice looking copy of an original so float height is 25 mm per the manual. The manual is a little confusing in that it says 25 mm to carb body but looking at the picture the gasket is in place so I set it 25 mm to the gasket. I cleaned the carb and will put in fresh gas to see what happens.

I have not been able to test with hot engine and cool air temperatures. It is hot engine and high air temps. There is no heat shield. The front muffler (bulge in exhaust) is near the carb and I wonder if wrapping it in heat shield would be the same as a heat shield. It has a Chinese copy of an OEM type 22 mm Keihin carb. I did have to increase the throttle slide cut away to get rid of an off idle stumble. I wonder if I could have gone too far. I have what I believe to be the OEM TL250 slide to copy but no other OEM carb parts. I'll check timing and valve clearance.

My TL250 can be finicky when starting hot, like 90 degrees and low humidity. Are there any tricks or methods that may help? With near full choke and maybe 1/3 throttle it starts very easy cold.

Can you buy a modern throttle and cable for a TY250 with original Teikei carb? The only cable I see available is for the original throttle. Or do you buy a Domino or Amal throttle and make your own cable? Are cables somewhat standard between carbs such that if I move on to a mikuni or OKO would the same cable work? Are other carbs an improvement over the Teikei? I'm not seeing Teikei jets or parts available so it make be best to change anyway.

Looking on ebay, the DT style shafts are readily available.

I have a 2001. I was able to get air filters and a rear caliper but that is all I have needed. The 01 cylinder is different in that the lower water connection is through the cases rather than through a hose like later Rev3s. I suspect the later cylinder could be made to work but don't know for sure. I would worry most about getting plastics like a rear fender or air box parts. Are there sources for them?

Yes, mine is a 250A. The kick stand mounts to the main frame and there is not a lot of space to move the peg. Thanks. Did you use weld on peg mounts or make your own?

I'm not sure a response to an old post will show up. I like this simple style of mount and want to do something similar. What did you do to accept the lower bolt in the frame? The tube is quite thin. Did you weld in a threaded plug? Was it tricky to avoid interference with the kickstand?

I don't remember all of the details but I put a Bultaco Alpina rear wheel on a 1965? C15. I probably had to make wheel spacers but don't remember having to do anything else to make it fit. I also installed the Alpina forks and front wheel. As I recall, the rear Alpina brake worked well but the front was terrible. There was not a lot of forethought but the bike turned quite well.

I did not realize that XT225 = Ty250 offset until I found it on line. I only had the XT225 sprocket.

Thanks for that. I did find that manufacturers list an XT225 sprocket as having the same offset as a TY250 sprocket and happened to have one from an XT. The sprocket that came on the TY has about 5 mm too much offset. I did some measuring and my numbers are slightly different from yours but also found that different manufacturers (on Amazon) list minor differences in sprocket thickness. That seems odd.

Were the original sprockets aluminium? This one is magnetic and all references I see to the brand on line are all old so it could be a 25 year old aftermarket sprocket. Is the OEM offset listed somewhere? Everything looks straight as far as I can tell with a tape measure, eyeball and the bike together. One odd thing is that the paint is rubbed off the swingarm where it touches but I would expect to see it more torn up from the chain. If I mis align the snail axle adjusters by one step, I get about 2 mm clearance.

I have a new to me TY250A twin shock and the rear sprocket lightly rubs on the swing arm. Do they normally have very little clearance? The bike appears unmolested and with low hours. The axle hardware/ spacers match what is shown on the part list. The rear sprocket is steel, looks original and is marked PORTCO YA-311-53. The sprocket runs reasonable true and is not bent. My attempt to check sprocket alignment with a home improvement type laser suggests that the rear sprocket is about 1.5 mm farther out than the front sprocket. Is there something else to consider before installing a 1.5 mm spacer or taking 1.5 mm off of the mounting surface of the sprocket? Purely by eye, the sprocket looks 1/4" out from the front sprocket.

There is a vent that gets a tube to air plus another connection that needs to be capped off. See:

I was talking about relative size of foot to calf. My latest pair are size 44 so any measurements I take would probably mean little to someone named bigboi. IIRC, Forma and Gaerne fit exactly the same except that Forma are an inch or two taller, at least in my size. The only other brand I tried was Alpinestars but they were quite narrow so got returned. I have had the opposite experience from Lemur with Gaerne and Forma. For me Gaernes are quite soft and require little break in. In not a very long time, they start to feel as soft as bedroom slippers. The soles are also softer which may give you better traction on the pegs. I find the Forma to be stiffer and require more break-in. The stiffer feel, even after break-in, makes them feel more protective. The harder soles also last longer. I'm on my second pair of Forma Boulder and have a pair of their adventure boots. All feel the same. These are the waterproof ones and I don't know if that makes a difference. I have had a number of pairs of Gaerne but don't remember what model.

Forma Boulder have pretty good calf room. With calves on the large size and the big Leatt knee guards, Forma boots close but just barely. https://www.motosport.com/product/?code=SS-M-G-P-NA-PLA-DIRT&key=Leatt-2022-Dual-Axis-Knee-Guards&cc=us&variant[LBRI08C]=LBRI08C-X003-Y003&cc=us&variant[LBRI08C]=LBRI08C-X003-Y003&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&&mrkgadid=3327779862&mrkgcl=500&rkg_id=0&adpos=&creative=331604523753&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&product_id=LBRI08C-X003-Y003&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwh4-wBhB3EiwAeJsppKMXOCXmGLvAbXSsWUN2Jn1gP9nM-DN0I6IWqL8Pqgp-QutvS5nC7BoCOWUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

This claims 155 lbs dry. IIRC, the beta 4t is about 7 1/2 pounds heavier than the 2t models. The Honda is then another 7 1/2 pounds heavier than the Beta 4t. https://www.outdoordepot.biz/Motorcycles-Beta-EVO-300-4-Stroke-2024-South-Fork-CO-cfe3b8b3-3612-42bc-b1b1-b081007ec67e This says 170 lbs wet for the Honda. https://www.dirtrider.com/dirt-bikes/montesa-honda-trials-motorcycles-2023/

I stand corrected. The number is 60 hours and came from an ISDT preparation manual put out by Lampkins. I was just following that recommendation but the clearance never seems to change. There was no failure.

I have a 16 Beta 300 4t and have been checking valves every 50 hours but they never seem to change so plan to stop. It is a lot of work to get to the valves. Everything comes off the motor except the swing arm bolt and the engine then rotates down around the bolt to get valve access. It is also quite a bit more work to get to the carb compared to the 2t. It is the quietest bike and easy to kick.

Not the same bike but I once had an early 90s Fantic 80 for one of my kids. It had full size wheels and was a full size bike or almost full size. It probably weighed as much as a current trials bike or a bit more. Power was adequate for a 155 lb person to pop over moderate size logs. It worked pretty well on the flat but any kind of a hill was an issue. Even a very moderate size hill required max rpm in first gear just to get up. Modern 80s probably have more power but when you test ride be sure to try some kind of hill.

This is what the RT cover looks like, There is not quite enough room for the kick starter on the shaft.