mcman56

Is the 52500 marked clutch cover the only one that will fit a TY175? I found that the same gasket fits a RT100 so bought one off of Ebay but it is about 10 mm wider. It is also 10 mm wider at the kick shaft area so would at least require a longer kick shaft. https://ibb.co/f2vnmJ6

TL250 are 33 mm so maybe bored out TL250 clamps. I'm having problems with pictures but have links. https://ibb.co/B2ghdCr https://ibb.co/0hRRdgX https://ibb.co/8Nt1NCk

How do you remove the seal under the bolt at the bottom of the fork? Do you need to replace if it looks OK? I currently have 2 sets of forks. One set has what looks like a red fiber washers in place but they do not want to move almost like they are glued on place. I don't know if both sides sealed or not. The second set looks like it has copper washers on top of the red fiber washers. Both sides of this did seal.

What type of sleeve was used? Was it a pressed in or loctited bronze bush? Bicycle bushes look like modern split motorcycle fork bushes. They may fit but are probably 1 mm thick at max and would need some kind of metal retainer.

I did some more investigation. One fork moved pretty well without oil and spring but when checked over full length had 0.030" run out. The other side would stick intermittently and the tube was 0.006 TIR. It must have been the one with the cavitation feel and has a pretty nasty gouge inside the slider near the top. I can't even imagine how it got there, maybe previous owner maintenance. It is not an interference fit because the tube can at times slide freely through. It feels more like like the right combination of oil and air in the gouge creates a vacuum and sort of attaches tube to fork leg. Have you ever fixed anything like this? I found some 30 mm bushes but suspect the fork leg would be very challenging to set up on a lathe. https://www.amazon.com/RockShox-Bushing-02-05-Duke-30mm/dp/B001CK0LTM/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=UqY3c&content-id=amzn1.sym.8cf3b8ef-6a74-45dc-9f0d-6409eb523603&pf_rd_p=8cf3b8ef-6a74-45dc-9f0d-6409eb523603&pf_rd_r=7DAET5N6F5TCJWQKNRW9&pd_rd_wg=ab5En&pd_rd_r=65ff88f9-e798-4544-bed9-97c475955d64&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mi Picture is attached but not that great as the site is only allowing me 18.46 kb. Seems odd.

It is interesting that you mentioned polishing because I did a quite bit of that. When I got the bike there were quite a large number of deep gouges and burrs on the tubes so the seals would not seal. I filed burrs, filled big gouges with epoxy, filed and polished smooth. I don't remember the sand paper roughness but they look pretty shiny. It was done in a lathe. The entire fork action felt very stiff until I went to the thinnest oil I could find. After that I just felt stiction. Is there a way to reproduce the original ground finish? With the right paper it seems like you could create something like the honing finish in a bore. Are all old forks likely to have issues? I'm a little tempted to buy new tubes but hate to do that and find no change. I may try straightening. The yokes have a machined surface on the bottom that looks perpendicular to the bores. They sit flat on a surface plate so are straight. The fork brace is not perfect but seems close. Is there a way to get a perfect fit? Pushing on the assembled forks off the bike seems OK. If anything, I may feel a little uneven damping sort of like cavitation of the oil at times. That makes no sense to me. I'll try without springs and oil.

I pulled them apart and measured straightness. Do you know how straight they need to be to perform OK? I turned them on V blocks with the lower legs still installed. One tube is 0.020 inch TIR and the other is 0.006 inch TIR. The axle itself is 0.015 inch TIR. I wonder what other 45 year old bikes are like.

I don't know how it would fit but FMF makes a very nice universal muffler in 2 sizes. The smallest has a 1 1/8" ID. I put one on a TY175 and it really quieted it down plus seems to have given it more power. I like a quiet bike and could not stand riding the TY with OEM muffler. The muffler could be shortened to fit. https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/fmf-universal-2-stroke-turbinecore-silencer

I did the opposite and ran a VM 26 from a Beta Rev3 on a BSA C15 but had to do a lot of jetting changes including the needle. The REV3 jetting should be close but I'm not sure what needle it used. Some carbs had different atomizers depending on 2t or 4t but I'm not sure about the VM. This may help. .

I have a 270 beta that was hard to kick and very sharp off the bottom. In addition to the standard 0.5 mm base gasket, I added a 1.0 mm base gasket. The bike is noticeably softer off the bottom but I would not call the difference huge. It is also easier to kick. Swapping base gaskets is pretty easy to do and easily reversible. At some point in time, head spacers were sold for the same reason and should be even easier to install but probably unavailable.

Is the plug wet or dry? If it was sitting, I would recommend complete carb clean plus fresh gas. Check that air filter looks OK. With spark plug removed and grounded, check for spark when kicking. When running properly, most of these bikes like to start cold with full choke and no throttle. If the plug is dry, you could try laying the bike on its side with fuel tap open until some gas runs out of the carb. If there is a fuel shortage, that should get it primed so then give it a number of kicks. You may need some throttle here. If it starts and runs for a little but then dies, it reinforces the need for a carb clean. If plug is wet, you can try some kicking with petcock off, choke off and throttle wide open to clear.

I'm not sure if this helps but there is an aftermarket CDI/ coil available for some years, 2003 to 2008. https://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/2003-2008-beta-270-rev-3-cdi-unit I had one as a spare on a 2008 Rev 3 200. It ran the same as the OEM ignition. The bike is gone but I still have the spare. The web site list the same part number for 200, 250 & 270. https://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/2003-2008-beta-200-rev-3-cdi-unit Another source https://www.hpi.be/item.php?item=CD13201

I have used duplicolor engine paint with good success on engine casings and it is not sensitive to petrol. It came out beautiful even with my crap spray skills. One color even matches old OEM engine cases. https://www.duplicolor.com/product/engine-enamel-with-ceramic/ Rustoleum high heat paint looks great on the exhaust and has not been affected by petrol. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/specialty-paints/high-heat?ls=248903&lc=Flat Black In both cases I bead blasted, used the recommended primer, applied at the recommended temperature and allowed to cure before touching. Recommended application temperature can be a challenge depending on the season so I applied outside at mid day and then stored inside to maintain the temperature during cure. Exhaust application temp is 50 deg F and engine application temp is 60 degrees F. No high temp cure was used on either because it was not recommended. Both have been flushed with leaking petrol and there has been no affect.

This is for a 250

Twist throttle and quickly release. Can you hear slide hit the stop?

Once I used the lightest oil I could find, my TY175 forks felt pretty good as far as spring rate and damping was concerned. However, there is still a lot of stiction and the forks are not very compliant over little bumps. A friends TY with 250 forks looks and feels much more compliant on small stuff. Are the 250 forks more compliant for some reason. (They are hard to find.) Can the 175 forks be improved in this area? My fork tubes were a bit scratched up but repaired with JB Weld and much polishing. They do not leak. I was advised to get the "green" fork seals but could not find them in this small size. Has anyone tried fitting bushes in the lower legs? How difficult is it to set the legs up on a lathe? It does not look like an easy task. Are modern Teflon coated bushes available to fit the tubes? I could not find any.

Does someone sell a 13 tooth front sprocket for the TL250? I have a 14 and see 12 t for sale but no 13. I have spent some time on the bike now. It works well for such a heavy bike but it is not smooth when rolling on and off the throttle like when snaking slowly through trees with tight turns. There is a lot of engine braking with throttle off and as soon as the slide lifts a surge forward. I went from a very quick MX type throttle to an Amal trials throttle with no real change to this. The engine does not spin up quickly like it needs more flywheel. I'm thinking lower gearing may help in those slow on/ off parts. I have the stock gearing and am thinking lower gearing may help smooth out that transition.

These guys can probably help http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/TY-Yamaha.html

The Reflex shocks will not fit. With stock shock mounts and stock spring diameter you would be lucky to get 10 mm longer shocks to fit. The problem is that they hit the muffler. I'm guessing that is the reason for the shock mount modification.

Try a clear vent line. Believe it or not, my 2016 Evo gas cap vent was actually auto siphoning. It had a clear vent line and you could see alternating bubbles and gas coming up even when stopped after running. I was pointed to a posting that I can no longer find describing the issue. I disassembled, cleaned, reassembled and the issue was gone. I had to be quite brutal to pry the cap apart and thought it was going to break it but did not. IIRC there were 2 springs and 2 valves in the cap. It was clean inside with nothing obviously wrong. I'm guessing that some of the little parts got out of position created the situation. There was a recommendation for a CSP cap but at the time they only fit 2018 and later.

I have had good results with that brand. Even though I live in a relatively dry climate, rust is usually the killer of frame bearings.

I'm running a Dunlop tubeless tire with tube on a TL250. It has new rim locks tightened as tight as possible. Looking at the valve stem, the rear tube is rotating on the rim. I assumed this must be the tire rotating but I marked the tire/ rim before last ride and it is not. The valve stem is noticeably angled with only one very mild ride. See pic with line and stem from one ride. The line is from black marker to black marker and not related to raised line on tire. This is strange. Is there a fix? To recenter valve stem, I have been doing a number of deflation and inflation cycles with a tightened valve stem nut and it does straighten out. I had a TY175 do the same thing and I assumed it was the tire turning on the rim but now I don't know. It eventually stopped doing it.

A buddy just bought one of these bikes and I do find the button odd for RB. I have a 2018 Triumph tiger with an electronic throttle. I believe it is a hall effect sensor type device but it has a spring loaded switch that is triggered when pushing the throttle closed. On that bike, it is used to cancel cruise control but it would seem ideal to trigger regenerative braking on the EM bikes. Is anything like that available? The Domino throttle does have an unused switch but it may be to ensure no no movement due to electronic noise with throttle closed. Maybe like a kill switch. It is not clear to me.

I'm tempted to buy a new 2022 EM and see they have a couple trials models. I have ridden an epure race and liked it but am not sure I would ever use the clutch. Has anyone ridden the other model with traction control? Is the traction control useful? I'm no beginner but no expert either?

Sorry, I meant 240/ minute. Thanks for this info