mcman56

When I first got my Beta 300 4t, it felt abrupt on the initial blip off of idle. (I believe the new ones come with a slower throttle so maybe that is no longer the case.) This was only a concern when doing full lock or near full lock turns while slipping the clutch. Going down one tooth on the front sprocket helped. Getting the jetting correct also helps. I had to go leaner than all of the recommendation I have seen. I replaced two of the thick clutch plates with the thinner two stroke plates and this made the clutch a bit smoother. Power is very smooth and generally easy to manage so I would not think you would have a need to soften the power. As alluded to above, it is only a 5 speed. Gear spacing is good but top speed is limited particularly after going down one tooth on the front. This could be a limitation when used as a trail bike. On the plus side the standard model is the quietest gas powered trials bike available. The factory model has a different muffler and is a bit louder. I have also owned a 200 2t and really liked it for trials, a very sweet bike. However, it did fell weak when climbing steepish hills in taller gears so if your trails include that, it could be an issue. I have not spent any time on the Honda so can not compare but I hear gear box oil is something like $80/ quart.

I recently acquired a 2001 270 Rev 3 with very little wear on the original tires. I also have a 2016 Beta evo 4t 300 and am a very average not great rider. The biggest difference is the 2t - 4t thing. (Prior to the 4t I had a 2t 300 Beta and the low end power was very soft and smooth. In contrast, the 270 is quite sharp right off the bottom.) The second biggest is poor traction on 20 year old tires. The Rev 3 feels a lighter than than the 4t. The rear brake is much more powerful and it shifts smoother than other Betas I have owned. Front brakes feel the same. Steering geometry feels pretty much the same. The Rev 3 suspension feels stiffer. I have had 2 evos and it took quite a while for the suspension to break in so it could be that it needs break in or it is by design or maybe by not moving for 20 years. In the not too distant past I have had a 2008 rev3 200, 300 2t Factory and the 4t 300 plus get occasional rides on brand new bikes. I ride about the same on all of them. The 2008 had a fair amount of hours on it and the suspension was quite plush so I think the 01 will break in. I would look for a very well maintained bike regardless of year. Low hours are desirable. Lots of people ride Hondas so light weight can not be the most important thing.

I have had 3 Betas and they were all like that. I have had pretty good success using this to reattach: https://www.amazon.com/Amazing-GOOP-170011-Marine-Adhesive/dp/B081XMZQPJ

The raised needle masked the problem for just one ride. I pulled the point plate and it is quite dirty near the seal but not really wet.

I read that a lean needle can cause this so I looked at the carb again. The needle did have a very slight amount of up and down play in the slide, maybe 0.010 inches. I have not seen this on other carbs but don't know that I would notice. I raised the needle one position to full rich and added a small spacer on top of the clip to get rid of the play. The hanging idle seems gone or at least greatly reduced.

Can the magneto side seal be replaced form the outside? Are there any tricks or advice? I did replace all of the seals in the carb. Someone sells a kit.

I have a TY175 that has a delay before returning to a slow idle. When cutting the throttle, it will stay at a high idle for 3 to 5 seconds before returning to a slow idle. Just guessing... but if a slow idle is 800 rpm, the fast is maybe 1300. Besides that it runs fine. Is that normal or to be expected? I have cleaned the carb multiple times, checked the reeds and gone from a 30 to 32 and then 35 pilot jet but it is much the same. I tried spraying WD40 all around the intake system to see if there was a leak. It is mostly stock with dual stage reeds, fmf muffler and a little weight removed from the flywheel. Is there something else to look for? IIRC 4 strokes can do this when rich and 2 strokes when lean. Is that correct?

Garne boots are a good fit for me but they do not offer a lot of protection. Once aged a bit, they feel like bedroom slippers so I want something with more protection. I have been using MSR dual sport boots but they are obsolete. I just ordered some Alpinestars but when I tried them on, they are too narrow in the ball/ toe area and skinny in the calf area. Reviews suggest that SIDI is also small in the toe area. Is there another brand that is wide in the front, has plenty of room in the calf and offers better protection. How is the fit with Forma? One article reviewing trials boots even recommend these as trials boots. Has anyone tried them? https://www.amazon.com/ONeal-Mens-Logo-Rider-Black/dp/B073XW4YMF/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=thedirtbike-20&linkId=5c22ab8e9c248bd48cd8b5e592a08226&language=en_US

This bike was a rare find and is just starting to show wear on the original tires. I inspected the exhaust and it is very clean. The 270 has a reputation of being on the loud side. The root of the problem is that I have been spoiled by the sound level of a Beta 4t so am looking for any options to quiet down the 2t. I put an FMF universal muffler on a TY175 and liked the result but it looks too wide for the Beta. I do remember hearing of people replacing the curved Montesa inner pipe with a straight one for improved power and "better" sound.

Did some Montesas 2ts come with a curved inner muffler tube, the perforated one that gets fiberglass wrapped around it? Are they still available somewhere? What years and models came with them? Did they make the bike quieter than a straight pipe? I have an 01 Beta I would like quieter and wonder if this is an option.

This is a 2016 four stroke. It uses the same pedal. It was an improvement for me.

How often do you replace or refinish the basket?

I assume you could port an engine to make it easier to kick over. Would raising the exhaust port make it both smoother off idle and easier to kick?

I have had a couple of short rides on SS 300s, the last was a 2020 so they are still available. They were both smoother than a 300 factory model I owned....very smooth. In general I find the Betas 300s to be a bit slower reving and therefore a bit easier to ride than the 250s but can't explain why...unless you wind them up. I did not wind up the SS so can not comment on that. The most surprising thing about them is that they were very very easy to kick over, nothing like other 300s I have kicked, maybe even easier than 250s. I looked up the specs and the compression ratios are the same so I can't imagine why they are easier to kick unless the listed specs are wrong. The 2020 was also quieter than other Beta's even though the muffler looked the same. Maybe there was something different about that one bike.

When I try to message I get: rgvlc cannot receive messages.

Evo is different from 2001 Rev3.

I'm looking for a flywheel weight for a 2001 Beta Rev3 270. These are 80 mm hole to hole as opposed to later Rev3s that are 70 mm. Did these also require a spacer for the side cover? I was looking at making one myself but there is not much space under the side cover. I'm in the US.

Where do you get this aftermarket airbox to carb conn which is softer? I never timed it but maybe it is a 45 minute job vs 15 for the two stroke.

On Beta's, 200, 250 and 270 all share the same bottom end.

With the forks removed from the bike, does each individual fork tube compress and extend as expected?

Assuming they worked properly before mounting on the bike, something could be out of alignment. General recommendation is to loosen all bolts except lower fork clamps. This includes fender mount and axle clamp. Flex forks up and down. It should be free. Tighten top clamps, repeat flex, then axle clamp, flex, then fender.

Were the forks extended when you put the top caps on?

When I had flooded the crank case, there was one indication. While kicking, it kicked back a bit. I don't remember if this was when it was finally trying to start or not. It was likely trying to compress some fuel. In my case, I probably pumped the excess fuel into the exhaust. Per the posting above, be very careful with any spark. I once had an 80cc 2 stroke engine filled with gas and you could not even kick it over. I was in a hurry and did not think about spark. It spit out a surprisingly large about of gas and caught on fire around the third kick. It was a good size fire but I had an extinguisher in my truck. My daughter was about 8 at the time and this was to be her fist ride on a bike with a clutch. I wish I had a picture of her face when I pointed to the bike covered in black soot and extinguisher powder saying ..you can ride it now.

Is the plug wet? I have a fairly new to me 2001 270 easy starter. I went to Prairie city last weekend and it was a no starter. There was spark but a wet plug and not even a burp from the engine. After a plug change and lots of WFO kicking if finally lit and puked a fair amount of gas on the back wheel. I had forgot and left the petcock open. I wonder if the Mikuni is more sensitive to leaking than others. Is the plug dry? The idle/ pilot circuit in the carb is likely plugged up and requires cleaning. A crude method to try is, with petcock on, lay the bike on its side for 30 seconds or so to flood the carb. Stand it up and kick with throttle off and choke on. I don't know if it makes a difference but I also noticed that a projected tip spark plug is factory recommend the early Rev3 .

I had a some success quieting down an 2001 270. It is not a night and day difference but there is a noticeable decrease in sound. The bike had a megaphone shaped spark arrestor and I swapped it out for a John Deer style. The link shows the type but I'm not sure it is the exact size. There are 2 or 3 sizes. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-2-NGP-49024-AM108146-Exhaust-Muffler-Spark-Arrester-Screen-Type-1-3-8-OD/162488243183?hash=item25d50dd3ef:g:2NIAAOSwWWxY~Wzt Second, I put on a rubber 90 degree elbow on the end of the exhaust so it points at the ground.