mcman56

I have had good results with that brand. Even though I live in a relatively dry climate, rust is usually the killer of frame bearings.

I'm running a Dunlop tubeless tire with tube on a TL250. It has new rim locks tightened as tight as possible. Looking at the valve stem, the rear tube is rotating on the rim. I assumed this must be the tire rotating but I marked the tire/ rim before last ride and it is not. The valve stem is noticeably angled with only one very mild ride. See pic with line and stem from one ride. The line is from black marker to black marker and not related to raised line on tire. This is strange. Is there a fix? To recenter valve stem, I have been doing a number of deflation and inflation cycles with a tightened valve stem nut and it does straighten out. I had a TY175 do the same thing and I assumed it was the tire turning on the rim but now I don't know. It eventually stopped doing it.

A buddy just bought one of these bikes and I do find the button odd for RB. I have a 2018 Triumph tiger with an electronic throttle. I believe it is a hall effect sensor type device but it has a spring loaded switch that is triggered when pushing the throttle closed. On that bike, it is used to cancel cruise control but it would seem ideal to trigger regenerative braking on the EM bikes. Is anything like that available? The Domino throttle does have an unused switch but it may be to ensure no no movement due to electronic noise with throttle closed. Maybe like a kill switch. It is not clear to me.

I'm tempted to buy a new 2022 EM and see they have a couple trials models. I have ridden an epure race and liked it but am not sure I would ever use the clutch. Has anyone ridden the other model with traction control? Is the traction control useful? I'm no beginner but no expert either?

Sorry, I meant 240/ minute. Thanks for this info

Does it have a flywheel weight? If so, removing it should make it much sharper on the bottom. I read somewhere that all UK models come with the weight and are what is sold as the Super Smooth in the US. I'm not sure if that is true. Although, I had a 2014 Evo Factory 300 2t with no weight and it was very soft on the bottom. It was quite powerful when wound up. The response was slower than the 250 or even 125. The 125s had a little tiny flywheel so even though it lacked displacement, the response was quick.

TLR200/ Reflex shocks are 15". Someone lent me a pair to try but I'm recovering from some surgery so have not gotten to them yet.

Very interesting. I'm not very electronically literate but looked up some detail on this and it is frequency dependent. Does that mean is softens the response because it does not immediately react to throttle movement and wants to see it set at some position for a time period before reacting? For example, I'll guess that the twitch is 240 cycles/ second. Could resistor- capacitor sizes be calculated that would filter it out? My buddy should get his bike soon. Is that how noise filters on sound systems work?

I tried one on a 250 Rev 3. It was quite a while ago but as I recall, it a produced a very smooth low end power. The bike would pull to very low RPMs and would take large throttle openings at low RPMs. Response was similar to a very small pick up with a 4 cylinder diesel engine. Somewhere on the net was calculations or maybe recommendations on the appropriate volume. I believe I used a spacer between carb manifold and reeds to connect the bottle. (I may have tried it before and after reeds.) At the time someone suggested it was really the spacer having the effect but I don't know. The Mikuni manifold was 1/2" shorter than the Keihin manifold. I used the Mikuni manifold with spacer and Keihin so the overall length remained the same.

I once had an odd noise like that and it turned out to be the chain tensioner pivot.

I don't have a picture but if it is the small hose from the hot start button it goes to the air box. IIRC, it connects next to the crankcase breather near the carb to engine boot.

Would anyone have a source or a design for a TL250 compression release? A valve lifter type release was sold in the 70s for XL350/ 250 that should also fit a TL250.

Viton seals are usually but not always brown and that looks brown. I see that it says Gas Gas on the bearing and it looks quite wide in the picture. Is it a roller bearing? Why did Gas Gas go to the trouble of a custom bearing? Is there a ball bearing on the other side?

How did that happen?

If the bearing is stuck in the case, use something like a heat gun on the case. (Aluminium expands more than steel when hot.) There is a tool made for pulling the case off. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-crankcase-splitter-p

Just choosing one model on that web site is shows "4x galvanically isolated analog inputs (range from 0V to 10V)" . I'm guessing it means that a voltage is sent from the throttle. I have a friend whose throttle hand twitches like someone who has Parkinson's. Somehow he manages to ride a trials bike and has just ordered one of the EM bikes. It seems to me that an electronic signal could be averaged over time to filter out his twitch. This would certainly help him. Has anyone tried anything like that? The goal is just to be able to continue to ride.

Are there any technical specs on how the EM motor is controlled? Is the throttle just and adjustable resistor? Does that just go to some kind of standard industrial motor controller with programmable parameters? Or is there some type of computer in there as well like similar to a fly by wire gas powered street bike?

I have a fresh TL250 with stock gearing and it will lift the front wheel with the throttle only.

I now have a TL250 up and running. It works much better than expected except on tight turns. Has anyone tried longer shocks to help turning? What length?

Troubleshooting further, I did notice a little black smoke at the stumble spot so it was in fact rich. Increasing the slide cut away from 2.5 mm to 3.5 mm like the OEM TL250 carb has eliminated the issue. When looking on line how to cut the slide, I found nothing so will pass on how I did it. See pics. If you are good at doing things by eye, it would be much simpler to use a file.

Did you have to do any tuning to get them to work correctly? I now have my TL250 running with a china copy but it stumbles and wants to stall just off of idle. It runs fine above that rpm and at idle. It is very throttle position specific and stumbles just as the slide lifts. I'm guessing it is throttle slide cut away. However, I do have just the slide from the OEM slide and the OEM has a larger cut away than the copy. If this is the issue, it seems opposite from what I would expect. The chamfering is a little different so that may explain. I'm not sure how to proceed.

I have not heard of these. What exactly are they?

It is not easy to use standard bent feeler gauges for valve clearance inspection and I would think a 90 degree bend would work better. Has anyone found 90 degree gauges in the correct size? I found some sets used for big diesel engines but the smallest is 0.008" and they are needed down to 0.004" (0.1 mm). There are some straight brass gauges. Do they bend better than stainless steel?

You need to remove the carb. The packaging is very tight and there are a number of tubes connected.

Very interesting modification. Over the years, I have heard of removing springs, spacing out spring mounting bolts and using thinner plates as a way to reduce drag but I fail to see the logic. I can see that all of those things reduce the amount of spring force on the clutch and can make it easier to pull in. However, as stated, isn't it the gap that allows the plates to separate. Hydraulic fluid can be considered incompressible or nearly so so why would spring force affect drag with clutch in? Is the theory that the outer clutch cover held by the springs flexes and will flex less with less spring force so there will be more gap? Or maybe that the clutch line expands and will expand less with less spring force? Has anyone tried to measure this?