mcman56

On the 2016 there is a connector right in front of the rear wheel. The first time I took it apart I found green connector pins and I live in a mostly dry climate.

On my 2016, there is a connector under the fender near the air box that connects the electronic petcock and the fan. If you are doing anything in that area it is easy to disturb that connector. It can look connected but is not. I have to be very careful to push it together firmly. I have had the petcock and fan not work in the past due to this situation.

How do you go about buying one? Is there a web site?

What exactly do the magical spring do for the bike? Are they overall stiffer or softer or just different? What shocks did you have before rock shocks?

It probably matters what level you would ride. The type of terrain makes a difference also. I have a couple of modern bikes and vintage bikes. At 66, I can ride more challenging things on a modern bike but a TY175 is the easiest on my body. It is almost as light as a modern bike, kicks and starts easily. It also has a seat. Due to the power delivery, everything happens slower which is easier on brain and body. It is mostly clutch out riding so easier on your hands because you are not constantly working the clutch. The one exception is riding in rocks. With 4 inches of rear suspension travel and 45 year old forks, you feel like a ball in a pinball machine when riding across a field of rocks or up a rocky creek bed. I have not needed much but parts seem readily available. That said, an 80 year old bud got an Electric Motion this year and loves it.

A friend had a big end con rod failure on a 125 beta probably due to water getting in. When running it made a nasty grinding sound. When I pulled the cylinder I could feel up and down free movement of the rod.

Similar? https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-tlm240r-1987-hrc_model35474/partslist/#.Y6nfytLMKXI

Were you missing any small parts like a bolt or screw when you reinstalled the carb? The fact that something like this occurred right after having the carb off suggests that something could have gotten into the intake port when the carb was removed.

Some bikes have the engine size cast into the barrel. I think Sherco did that. The 2.9 was 270 or maybe 272. I have seen some Gas Gas cylinders with a 28 cast in. Is that 280 cc?

You also have to consider fit or shape. I bought a pair of alpinstars but they were too narrow for my feet. I have had several pairs of Gaerne and they fit a wide foot. I now have Forma that fit like Gaerne but are a bit stiffer so I feel better protected. They are also a bit taller. The soles are more durable.

I had a pair of these MS boots. They were very similar to trials boots but did have a little heel. Dual Sport/ Adventure boots have a full tread unlike MX boots that are designed to slide forward, This makes a difference when walking sections. I don't think they are made any more and went quite cheap on close outs. https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/malcolm-smith-racing-introduces-new-dual-sport-boot-aj-dia/

I had that issue with a 2016 Beta 4t. On that bike the spring would hit the end of a bolt when the stand was at full extension to make it self retract. A shorter bolt eliminated the self retract feature. I bought the bike used so am not sure if the long bolt was OEM or not.

I'll spend some time with the parts lists. Thanks

Are you saying that all of the DT covers will require a longer kickstart shaft length?

https://ibb.co/hYPZ1qn <a href="https://ibb.co/hYPZ1qn"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/2ZDsYbL/TY-vs-96-RT100-cover.jpg" alt="TY-vs-96-RT100-cover" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/hYPZ1qn"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/hYPZ1qn/TY-vs-96-RT100-cover.jpg" alt="TY-vs-96-RT100-cover" border="0"></a> [url=https://ibb.co/hYPZ1qn][img]https://i.ibb.co/2ZDsYbL/TY-vs-96-RT100-cover.jpg[/img][/url] [url=https://ibb.co/hYPZ1qn][img]https://i.ibb.co/hYPZ1qn/TY-vs-96-RT100-cover.jpg[/img][/url] Do picture links not work directly anymore?

Is the 52500 marked clutch cover the only one that will fit a TY175? I found that the same gasket fits a RT100 so bought one off of Ebay but it is about 10 mm wider. It is also 10 mm wider at the kick shaft area so would at least require a longer kick shaft. https://ibb.co/f2vnmJ6

TL250 are 33 mm so maybe bored out TL250 clamps. I'm having problems with pictures but have links. https://ibb.co/B2ghdCr https://ibb.co/0hRRdgX https://ibb.co/8Nt1NCk

How do you remove the seal under the bolt at the bottom of the fork? Do you need to replace if it looks OK? I currently have 2 sets of forks. One set has what looks like a red fiber washers in place but they do not want to move almost like they are glued on place. I don't know if both sides sealed or not. The second set looks like it has copper washers on top of the red fiber washers. Both sides of this did seal.

What type of sleeve was used? Was it a pressed in or loctited bronze bush? Bicycle bushes look like modern split motorcycle fork bushes. They may fit but are probably 1 mm thick at max and would need some kind of metal retainer.

I did some more investigation. One fork moved pretty well without oil and spring but when checked over full length had 0.030" run out. The other side would stick intermittently and the tube was 0.006 TIR. It must have been the one with the cavitation feel and has a pretty nasty gouge inside the slider near the top. I can't even imagine how it got there, maybe previous owner maintenance. It is not an interference fit because the tube can at times slide freely through. It feels more like like the right combination of oil and air in the gouge creates a vacuum and sort of attaches tube to fork leg. Have you ever fixed anything like this? I found some 30 mm bushes but suspect the fork leg would be very challenging to set up on a lathe. https://www.amazon.com/RockShox-Bushing-02-05-Duke-30mm/dp/B001CK0LTM/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=UqY3c&content-id=amzn1.sym.8cf3b8ef-6a74-45dc-9f0d-6409eb523603&pf_rd_p=8cf3b8ef-6a74-45dc-9f0d-6409eb523603&pf_rd_r=7DAET5N6F5TCJWQKNRW9&pd_rd_wg=ab5En&pd_rd_r=65ff88f9-e798-4544-bed9-97c475955d64&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mi Picture is attached but not that great as the site is only allowing me 18.46 kb. Seems odd.

It is interesting that you mentioned polishing because I did a quite bit of that. When I got the bike there were quite a large number of deep gouges and burrs on the tubes so the seals would not seal. I filed burrs, filled big gouges with epoxy, filed and polished smooth. I don't remember the sand paper roughness but they look pretty shiny. It was done in a lathe. The entire fork action felt very stiff until I went to the thinnest oil I could find. After that I just felt stiction. Is there a way to reproduce the original ground finish? With the right paper it seems like you could create something like the honing finish in a bore. Are all old forks likely to have issues? I'm a little tempted to buy new tubes but hate to do that and find no change. I may try straightening. The yokes have a machined surface on the bottom that looks perpendicular to the bores. They sit flat on a surface plate so are straight. The fork brace is not perfect but seems close. Is there a way to get a perfect fit? Pushing on the assembled forks off the bike seems OK. If anything, I may feel a little uneven damping sort of like cavitation of the oil at times. That makes no sense to me. I'll try without springs and oil.

I pulled them apart and measured straightness. Do you know how straight they need to be to perform OK? I turned them on V blocks with the lower legs still installed. One tube is 0.020 inch TIR and the other is 0.006 inch TIR. The axle itself is 0.015 inch TIR. I wonder what other 45 year old bikes are like.

I don't know how it would fit but FMF makes a very nice universal muffler in 2 sizes. The smallest has a 1 1/8" ID. I put one on a TY175 and it really quieted it down plus seems to have given it more power. I like a quiet bike and could not stand riding the TY with OEM muffler. The muffler could be shortened to fit. https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/fmf-universal-2-stroke-turbinecore-silencer

I did the opposite and ran a VM 26 from a Beta Rev3 on a BSA C15 but had to do a lot of jetting changes including the needle. The REV3 jetting should be close but I'm not sure what needle it used. Some carbs had different atomizers depending on 2t or 4t but I'm not sure about the VM. This may help. .

I have a 270 beta that was hard to kick and very sharp off the bottom. In addition to the standard 0.5 mm base gasket, I added a 1.0 mm base gasket. The bike is noticeably softer off the bottom but I would not call the difference huge. It is also easier to kick. Swapping base gaskets is pretty easy to do and easily reversible. At some point in time, head spacers were sold for the same reason and should be even easier to install but probably unavailable.