mcman56

This one has a right side kickstand but does not look like the picture with the pegs on the web site

http://www.tyoffroad.co.uk/store/p34/FOOTREST_LOWERING_KIT_(BOLT-ON)_TO_FIT_YAMAHA_TY175._(REF.Y026).html Is the TY175 frame the same on all years?

Is it possible to have wide pegs and not have to lift the peg for kick starting? Any pictures? One company advertises them on line but the pictures do not look like the 175 in my garage, maybe it is a 250.

What does ti take to remove the oil pump? Can you just remove the outer cover, pull the pump and install a block off plate? Or do you need to remove the inner cover and pull more parts? Would that mean you need to have an inner cover gasket before starting?

No goo. It actually feels pretty good. I need to ride another bike back to back to see if it is lacking.

The disc is flat. It did have one little gall mark and some wear but I have seen much worse. I have been looking and the gall mark must have occurred on the last ride so it can not be the long term issue. I installed an Apico FIM solid rear disc Beta Evo 09-on made by NG. This was a big improvement but not sure why.

I burped the banjo bolt about 10 times but it feels the same. The pedal does not feel particularity spongy. Low pressure on the pedal produces a very slight drag by the brakes. High pressure provides strong braking. The problem is that there is nothing in the middle. Is this what is called wooden brakes? I guess this could be a bubble or slight fluid leak. I have a new brake disc to try. After that I'll go for a 2017 master cylinder. It also looks like dropping the shock would allow removing the brake system in one piece for off bike vertical bleeding. I have tried all recommended brake pad brands but they feel the same. The only pads I have not tried are the non metallic. I replaced the caliper with a 2017 caliper. I have also done a lot of bleeding but it keeps feeling the same.

I'm chasing an issue with poor initial grab on a rear brake. It works when you stand on it but slight feathering on a slight down hill approach to an obstacle feels very weak. Anyway, I have heard of people putting pressure on master cylinders to strengthen the feel so I thought I would give it a try. I hung a 10 lb weight on the rear brake pedal for maybe a week. It sat in the truck all day with no weigh prior to my ride so I don't know if there was any impact but I noticed that the master cylinder had bled out a very small quantity of fluid. I'm guessing some number of drops. This had to have come through the seals. It still worked as before. Does this confirm a bad master cylinder? Having never tried this before, I don't know the affect on a good working system. Could they all weep a little under such conditions?

I have a 2014 Factory model and it does not have the nut under the top triple clamp for setting tension on the steering bearings. The "fork adjusting ring nut" shown on the 2013 evo parts list is not there. The "ring nut" is shown on the standard 2014 model parts list. I discovered this when I removed the top clamp and the forks started to fall off. So, on the factory, the top nut sets the tension for the steering bearings and holds the top clamp in place. I don't remember how well the top clamp fit but it does have the pinch bolt. Not teh same bike but I was getting a head clunk on a 99 Kawasaki Concours when hitting the brake on the freeway. On that bike, fully torquing the nut above the top clamp removed the clunk. If these come in the right size, they may work as a thin sleeve. http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.7100150cebe5bbc2d6806710237ad1ca?vgnextcatid=2633738&vgnextcat=SHAFT REPAIR SLEEVES&vgnextoid=f5c9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=EN Or, if you know have access to machine tools, you could bore or ream the hole in the top clamp much larger and press fit in a reducing collar that would be a tight fit on the steering spindle.

Some questions - Shouldn't it be the clamping force rather than the clearance that keeps things from moving....like the rear axle in the swing arm? If movement is based on fit, wouldn't you need a press fit to prevent movement, like a big end pin in a crankshaft? I assumed the pinch bolt was to keep the bolt from loosening thus preventing loss of clamping force.

To add more confusion, some bikes respond quicker than others. I mean response as in how quickly the motor increases rpms. I ride a 300 evo yet a friends 125 evo responds quicker. I find that the 250 evos I have ridden respond slightly quicker than my 300 even though it is counter intuitive. Some riders who ride obstacles much larger than I do prefer 125s because they do not have to worry about using too much power. On the other hand, you can be 2 or 3 gears too high and still get through on a 300. I think it comes down to personal taste so you should try as many as you can. I have not ridden many of the other current bikes and my throttle control has probably improved over time but in general, I found the Betas to have softer/ smoother power bands than other bikes. This excludes their current 125. I don't know how they get that much response from a 125.

I removed tow springs on a Rev3. The clutch pull was lighter but I eventually noticed slipping in high gears.

I have a 2008 Rev 3 200. It is a sleeved down 250. It now has a 250 top end. The piston and cylinder are different plus there was a bush in the small end of the rod to reduce the diameter to the 200 piston pin size. The 200 uses the bushing as a bearing so has no roller bearing in the small end.

Mr Dan W Do you know the thread size? it looks sort of 4 mm size

Maybe there is a transplant list for things like that but I'm interested in the metal kind.

Does anyone make a longer rear brake bleed nipple? Does anyone know the thread size? I'm serving time in brake bleed purgatory and the hex on the small nipple part is starting to get damaged. It is very short so installing a good wrench and hose is challenging. It would be nice to get a secure connection for the hose so it will stay on when pushing fluid with a syringe.

These are marked Goldfren S33 on the back. They have a bright gold/ copper color backing plate that I noticed on the 2017 bike I tried. Full evaluation is pending. http://shop.americanbeta.com/p/jitsie-race-pads/trial_beta-2-stroke_chassis_controls?pp=12

I believe that is what the State of California calls a non conforming VIN. The DMV will not find it on their computer so they do not know what it is. Some or all newer Gas Gas bikes also come with a non conforming VIN. The dealer provides new VINs which you see as a blue add on plate. I managed to get a Mecha Techno 80 registered some time ago by getting the highway patrol to verity the non conforming VIN and the registration said Make Unknown, year 00/00/00. At the time, I was told that the flood of Chinese bikes was triggering a continued tightening of regulations. I assume this puts the DMV in a situation where there are no perfectly clear guidelines. I have heard some DMV offices are easier to work with than others but do not have one to recommend. Some say more rural offices are better. I would be interested in hearing how it works out for you.

I had a Fantic 80 with a swingarm pivot shaft that would not come out. I tried heat and anti rust solvents but in the end had to resort to a hydraulic press. As I remember the pivot inner races had rusted to the shaft. The rest of the bike was rust free.

I run X ring chains and they last forever. They are not as wide as o-ring. V-mar makes a nice wide chain guide. A little trimming can make a standard guide work also. On my Rev 3, I had to put the master link clip towards the inside to avoid it touching the brake pedal http://www.vmar.com/chain-guide.html

Galfer pads feel the same. The Jitsie race pads are marked Goldfren on the back. I tried putting putting a 2008 Rev 3 rear wheel on my Evo. The disk is a little bigger, 3/16" or maybe 1/4" bigger in diameter. I could get the axle in but the disk drags on the caliper. I could not see if the Evo pads could take advantage of the larger disk. See the comparison pictures. Rev 3 pad also have more area.

DS80. Newer models are called JR80. They have a solid reliability reputation. http://www.suzukicycles.org/DS-series/DS80.shtml

Dan - Are you saying the jump comes after the throttle burst? I'm trying to do it at the same time. Actually, I'm trying to compress the front wheel on the obstacle, hit the throttle and jump all at the seem time. Although, there are a number of things that have to happen in a short time period so what I'm actually doing may be somewhat different.

I see that some riders can get a very quick almost explosive jump up from the pegs when unloading. When I attempt, it feels kind of slow and mostly like I'm compressing the rear suspension rather than pushing my body up quickly. Does this imply that my timing is off...maybe too early? I get some lift but not as much as I would like. I'm 155 lbs if that makes a difference.

Beta USA does list a 2017 improvement as: New rear brake pump: provides a more powerful yet progressive rear brake feel. Did they change bore size or just brands?