benj

i'd also agree to try replacing the kill switch, as if its slightly open circuit then higher voltage will short to earth more causing this problem,

the bike seems to run fine but does do the occasional knock at low revs when the throttle is blipped, i did notice the oil came out like milk after 1 3 hour trial but i drained the radiator and the no fluid was lost and was clear (although blue) so i dont think its water making it go milky

hi all, my 02 rev 3 is loosing gear oil and i suspect its being blown out the overflow, is it possible that the crank bearings could be leaking pressurising the gearbox or is it the other way round (gear oil is sucked into the crank area. if im wrong does anyone know where the fluid is going. thanks ben

not sure if it helps, i once had a ty250 with an intermittent poor front brake and was having to top the fluid up regularily and i diddnt spot the leak until the pipe from the master to the slave cylender burst (so must have been perished or something) and a new braided hose sorted the problem, perhaps your has a pinprick in it allowing air to draw in but not enough pressure to blow fluid out

im hoping to go on sunday, whats the parking like, is it expensive to park, i cant find any info on there, cheers

i never understand the mentality of actions like this, how does this harm the scooby owner himself, the cars hardly modified so will be replaced/repaired under the insurance, nothing but a few days inconvenience. its a cowards act.

i found the call hilarious and if the girl haddn't have slept with brand then it wouldn't have been acceptable, theyre only angry because the truth hurts, i bet sachs is never late for an interview again. im not keen on ross but i think brand is great

beta does a higher seat that doubles up as a fuel tank for the rev 3.

cheers mate, ive straightened the upright tab and the tongs and i'll try it tomorrow now its set correctly, the needle doesnt seem to have a mark on it but that was something i'd thought of, i didnt buy the bike new so i've no idea if theyre stock jets or not, the pilot says 30 or 03 and the main is 150 or 051.

just while i've got you, whats the best size jets to be running, its a 250 and just had piston and rings changed if that matters, thanks again

ok cheers mate

thanks very much for your help, i can now see whats wrong, the prongs were bent like that on purchase, looks like the central tiny lip that touches the fuel stopper is the part which is adjusted and the tongs stay straight, no wonder its drinking like a fish.

please can someone tell me if this is correct as when i fitted it back on its ok but if you put the bike on its stand it comes out the overflow pipe (not breather), it doesnt leak when leant to the right only te left, any suggestions would be apreciated.

just a suggestion, could your flywheels taper have worn due to it spinning on the crank especially if there has been broken woodruff keys rubbing inside, this would explain why it comes loose.

i bought a 02 250 that was making a knocking noise i tried new rings and little end bearing but no avail, had to buy a complete size e piston kit, it was about

i've had a beta for 2 months now, i've had to rebuild the engine due to wear but it depends on how well its been looked after and how picky you are. to get an exact age ring lampkins but thier website will give you a clue

well said steve, how is this bike better for the environment, the modern bikes are going fuel injected for better fuel economy and power, the generators that will be running are hardly tuned in the same way, part of my passion for bikes is the noise and smell, with out them i'd feel like a an ajile pensioner brain washed by the governments advisors that convise me im doing the right thing. in the greater scheme of things i guess that all off road bikes a yein brittan probably expell no more emissions than a ocean tanker transporting them here in one trip (dont quote me) so why not put the technology into clean energy like putting sails on the ships like they used to. i think the only people these bikes will benefit is learner riders and theifs who will find it easier to steal one,

to be more helpful i'd check that its clean and dry behind the flywheel cover, and that the electrical connections around the headstock area are secure and dry, i'd definately link out the stop button as i've had contactors at work that wont carry a current even when a multimeter claim it should, also check the spark plug cap is not loose. check the woodruff key hasn't sheared as thats what happened to mine but mine did occasionally spark, failing all its likely to be the stator but i dont know the best way to test it,

just an update on mine, ive just fitted a size e piston from the original size a and all noise has gone, ran sweet as a nut all weekend, i cant inagine that the piston rattling in the cylinder bore is gonna be any good for the long term so i'd say try a new piston sonner than later.

coinsidentally i too think i have this problem from another post of mine, i should be getting the top end back today as the shop is matching up a c or d size piston to stop this problem, i tried just new rings and the small end bearing but its the play in the piston that i believe is causing the rattle so hopefully will all be sorted,

i'm not sure how well the engine would stand with prolonged higher revving, i'd advise a proper number plate and decent lights as the police will find and reason to take it off you, insurance should't be a problem provided its properly legal i.e. lights tyres and anything else they can throw at you to prevent a payout. you'd be better getting a supermoto, much more fun on tarmac.

taking the bash plate off is the easy part, putting it back on is fun, i usually put the front ones in loosly and then sit the bike on a stand to bring it up closer and then use some plumbers pliers to squeeze it up enough to get the bolts back in, aparently it helps to hammer it flat if its a bit battered but i've never needed to bother.

ok thanks mate i'm gonna remove the flywheel to check behind it, what is the correct torque i should tighten it to or/and could you point me in the direction of any online manuals for 2002 beta which contains info such as. most apreciated

thanks for the reply, when the woodruff key was replaced i took the engine with me to the shop and asked them what the torque should be and they did it with a air drill which appaently is the standart practice so im guessing its tightenough, i'll remove the flywheel tomorrow to check the stator is still tight, how should i know if the timing is set right, is this correct (its the picture of the stator in the faq link). i've listened to it again tonight and im sure the noise is from the engine head, if the piston was to 'slap' what measurments should i be making to know if its faulty and what i need to order a new piston, as it seemed a tightish fit. p.s i only changed the little end, rings etc for peace of mind while it was apart, my brother bought the bike as a none runner, thanks again

i've bough a beta rev 3 250 2002 off my brother partially stripped, he couldnt get it started so took the head off for inspection (not sure why), i have now rebuilt it with new piston rings, gudgeon pin, clips, little end bearing and spark plug, the reason it wouldnt start was the woodruff key had sheared. ive given the bike a service and ran it in gently, it ran fine for roughly 4 hours on friday, on staurday it seems to have a kind of loose bolt rattle coming from the exhaust manifold (if you use a screwdriver as a stethascope), only present at mid to high revs, ive taken the front pipe off and the piston and rings all look clean and well and refitted the exhaust, ive also checked all the bolts are tight everywhere and the water pump impellor is ok, the bike runs ok and the noise isnt loud but this rattle is concerning me. could a new little end bearing have failed from new?. any ideas would be aprecieated. p.s the noise is present when cold or hot, in gear or neutral. i've been reading the search functions and i dont think this is plinking as the piston was decoked before refitting and is still clean, also the piston fits snug in the barrel and the compresson is very good. is there anyway this could be caused by something loose in the clutch as it grabs untill the engine is warm and then its ok, and the noise is there from cold. i can only describe the noise as the water pump impellor wobbling/catching when running fast/mid to high revs but ive had the pump cover off and impellor off and ran for few seconds when cold with noise still present, any ideas anyone?