woody

Gearing is 46:11, standard is 39:1, same as the 199a and 199b I run my 340 on 43:1 as I find 39:1 too high Bottom gear on the Motak bike (same ratio as the 340) didn't feel too low with the extra 3 teeth on the rear Frame and swingarm all standard, no mods.

Series website here - but setting it up is a learning process as they go along, so not 100% complete yet. Has the dates though http://www.twinshockchampionship.org.uk/index.html

Forks try 180cc of 10W Gearbox takes 1 litre. Any modern gear oil such as Silkolene light. If you use heavier gearbox oil the clutch may not operate so well. I use Silkolene with Barnett plates, no issues.

I don't think you can compare the Vazquez bikes with what is happening in Pre65. Pre65 bikes in their standard form are pretty agricultural and the modernisation turns them into something that is more competitive than your average Bultaco / Ossa / Montesa etc. They bear no resemblance to the original and have few of the original parts. These Spanish bikes are pretty well built to the spec that the factory gave to their supported riders as opposed to the bikes sold to customers. Blue-printed engines, properly built and set up, various stages of porting if required. Exhausts cut open and properly repacked, sometimes with a modified rear box to remove the baffles. Carburation set up perfectly, same with brakes, clutch. The chassis mods are just altered steering, if wanted, something that was done by some riders back in the day, and lowered footrests. The cosmetics, like a seat pad instead of a seat are just cosmetic. They are still all Bultaco. They look and sound like a Bultaco. It's just that everything works as it should, they feel new, tight, because they are very well built and set up. If someone had the knowledge to do the work and the skill/means to do porting, tuning the engine to how you want it, it's nothing an owner couldn't do themselves. A works spec bike if you like. The cost comes from the labour involved and the cost of new parts which are getting ever more expensive. Are they better than a 'normal' Sherpa. Yes, because of the above, but as I said, an owner could turn his normal Sherpa into one of these if he had the knowledge to do so. It's not like Pre65 where you'd have to engineer new yokes, hubs etc etc. All the parts are Bultaco, with the exception of the GasGas piston in the 280. But you could argue that has Bultaco origins.... Would it make any difference to an average rider in an average club trial on a well set up standard bike? Only in the way that it would probably give the rider more confidence through knowing that the bike will behave predictably and how they expect it too. But that's what these Spanish bikes are. Very well set up standard bikes. No specially made or expensive trick parts

The flanged type are available from Talon, but they are hard to lace up to a twinshock hub due to the length of the split spokes. Hondas aren't so bad as the have straight pull spokes anyway, but all others with bends at the hub make it a difficult job. Only ever seen it done once, on a Fantic. Be aware with the used wheels that they can suffer corrosion on the inside which can't be seen if there is a tyre fitted. I've had a couple with cracks too, but these can generally be repaired easily enough by welding.

It's there now - I got distracted http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/49557-motak-sherpa-280/#entry361810

So at Yesterday's Congleton twinshock trial I had the chance to try some Sherpas, The Motak 280, A Vazquez 250 and a Vazquez 325. This is by no means a review as I only had a few minutes on each and unfortunately wasn't able to try them on any of the sections used in the trial - which would have been an interesting comparison also against my own standard 1975 Ossa 310 that I rode in the trial. I was interested in the 325 in particular to see how it compared to my own 340 which has some Vazquez mods. The 280 Motak - Very pleasant bike to ride. It pulls well right off the pilot jet and the engine responds a little more strongly than the standard 250. Not snappy at all, it's very smooth and predictable off the pilot jet and consequently riding without the clutch down to nothing isn't a problem. But open the throttle and the engine picks up revs immediately, but without pulling your arms off. it's strong but it won't run off with you. I wasn't able to give the top end full beans as it had just been fitted with a new carb for the trial and it felt like the main jet was too big and over fueling the top end. Subsequent investigation found that the carb has been supplied with a main that is too big. With the right jet fitted it should rev very nicely, based upon the bottom end performance. A very nice engine. The clutch action was good, light and with no snatch or judder. It disengaged every time, no drag, no slip, no drama, with one finger operation when it was needed. The suspension worked well, the front was soft, but not overly so, didn't top out, neither did it bottom off some reasonable drop offs. The rear Falcons worked well. Older Bultacos, even with a decent pair of shocks fitted can still feel dead at the back. These last 198/9 a and b models give good feel from the back with decent shocks and this one was no exception. I'd liked to have tried it over a continuous series of rocks for a better impression, but on the terrain I tried it on, there were no issues. The footrests are lowered and the top yoke has been modified. Fat bars are fitted with a 7" rise and the riding position is good (I'm 6' 3" and the owner possibly a bit more, hence the high bars) The steering is not altered, other than longer shocks to quicken it a little. However, the bike steered as though it had been modified and felt a bit more precise than the usual slow Bultaco feel, as with my standard 340 (same frame as this bike) Whether this is due to the combination of the footrests being lowered but only moved very slightly rearwards (as much as makes no difference) and the top yoke mod which put the rider a little more over the front, it's hard to say and is subjective, but it steered very well. No washing out, it held into the ground on full lock turns and felt quicker than standard. Even the riding stance gave the impression it has been pulled in a bit - but it hasn't. We couldn't work out why it feels like that but it's a bonus... Brakes using soft linings within relined hubs worked very well, bearing in mind also that this was after the trial and the bike had been through water a good few times. In summary then, I thought the Motak was a very nice bike, easy to manage, giving the rider confidence, thanks to a smooth but strong engine and nicely set up suspension and brakes. A credit to the owner/builder The Vazquez 250. Very similar in feel to the Motak in terms of chassis, handling and suspension. This one has had the steering pulled back a little but it felt very similar to the Motak, which hasn't. Confusing... Chassis mods are the usual Vazquez with lowered footrests etc. The noticeable difference between the two was the engine. This bike has been ported whereas the Motak hasn't. This bike is softer off the pilot jet than the Motak and doesn't pick up as quickly or strongly - this doesn't mean it's flat, far from it. It's just not as strong off pilot, but more than adequate, However, once the it starts coming off the pilot, the revs really pick up quickly and it surges to a high revving top end - a result of the porting work no doubt and similar in character to my own 340 Vazquez. In summary, another nice bike, again, easy to ride, everything works as it should and it gives the rider confidence. The Vazquez 325. Identical to the 250 in terms of chassis mods etc. I was interested to see how this engine compared to my own 340 motor. When I first got that back from having the work done, it was lightning quick off the throttle, thanks to a bit of porting and lightening of the flywheels. It had a modern feel to it as with the reduced flywheel weight, it built revs very quickly and couldn't easily be ridden at low revs without the clutch, having a tendency to stall. This 325 was very similar when delivered from what I was told and was calmed down a bit to suit our more slippery conditions than the dry rocks of Spain. The motor was soft off the pilot jet and, could be ridden without the clutch without drama. It responded quickly enough off pilot without being snappy but the additional torque over the 250 was evident. But once you are off pilot, the revs build quickly, as with the 250 but much stronger - it pulls like hell. Nice. Very similar to my 340. All three bikes were very nice to ride, all three had very smooth and predictable power delivery and had well set up motors, chassis and suspension. Of the two 250 bikes, I liked the initial power delivery of the Motak 280 as it was a little stronger and with the right main jet fitted I've no doubt would rev out very well too. The Vazquez would probably hit higher revs due to its porting, but the Motak wouldn't be far off it, but with a slightly better bottom end I'll take one of each please....

Yes, thank you to the Congleton club for putting on what was a very enjoyable event. Proof enough that it's still possible to have a decent days trialling on good testing sections using a cheap and unmodified twinshock The balance of the sections seemed about right on the hard route, three or four difficult testers, a few tricky sections out of the streams onto muddy banks and the rest relatively straightforward but easily capable of taking marks if riders were careless. What was particularly nice was the chance to get the motor singing in 2nd and 3rd gear for the muddly climbs of sections 7 and 16. Section 16 - great section, brilliant, just like they used to be. No cobwebs left in the engine after that one... Sections like this seem to have disappeared over the years in classic trials with almost everything done in bottom gear now.. Well done also to Gerry Minshall, Peter Salt and Alan Wright for putting in the effort and trying to get a new twinshock series off the ground. This event has got the series off to a good start and will hopefully encourage riders to have a go and support other events in the series. Also had the opportunity to try some Bultacos at the trial, the orange Motak Sherpa and a couple of Spanish Sherpas. Thoughts are on the Bultaco forum.

Aren't they a bit small to sleeve something into? I think forks from a Triumph 3TA are what people use as they are a bigger diameter? Others will know for sure

Yes, Bultacos use 6205 C3 for the mains.

Mikunis in general do it, probably every Mikuni I've ever had has done it, whether an old 70s Mikuni off some Jap road bike (which yours looks like) or a brand new one - regardless of the overflow pipes being long, short or not fitted. Even if they don't flood when the bike is upright, they generally do if you lay the bike down at sections if you've no side stand, without turning the fuel off. They're a pain in the a***. The usual checks are as mentioned above, float level, float valve sitting correctly and not obstructed with something which prevents it shutting off fully when the float lifts. It would pay you to renew the float needle and needle housing - make sure you by a float needle with the rubber tip. You should be able to get them from Allens if yoou can given them any model numbers off the carb - or just email them a picture of the needle and housing. There are many variants of Mikuni.

The tensioner spring does use a roll pin to locate it as original fitment. The brake pedal assembly is nigh on impossible to fit or remove with the engine in. To have a fighting chance you have to fit the bushes after you have located the shaft - or remove the bushes before trying to remove the shaft. Without the bushes, you can get more angle on the shaft when waggling it around. The problem is usually the brake pedal as it invariably gets stuck somewhere. What I've done on mine is cut a piece off the end of the shaft on the clutch side so that there is more clearance when trying to juggle it out

Chips Quarry - great place, great venue. Some horrible sections in there, especially in he Colmore, and especially when covered in ice or snow. Picture below of a young Woody, majestically floating though a Chips section on OWP 4P, my 325 Sherpa M159. Taken at a Stratford club trial in '76 or '77. Had to sell it to buy a car not long after this was taken. About 10 years or so ago, I was selling some parts and a bloke arranged to stop by on his way home to buy something. He said he had just bought a Bultaco in pieces which was in the back of his tipper truck and could I tell him what it was. Easy enough to tell him it was an M159 model but then I saw the number plate - OWP 4P... My old bike. Couldn't believe it. I showed him the picture below and another few of the bike when it was nearly new. It inspired him to restore it. Unfortunately in the trial at Chips it broke and I had to relieve my brother of his Ossa (his first trial) and finish on that... One of the Ossa ripping it up the big hill climb in Chips Happy days, shame it's gone as a venue.

No idea about your stators but I used Bradford Ignition years ago, before they went to Spain (they're back now) They repaired two Ossa Motoplat stators which have worked fine since.

You don't need a stop light or reflector for MOT You don't need a speedo for MOT You can use a bulb horn due to the age of the bike - assuming it is Pre-73

Probably 15 - 20 is ideal. Not too far for the slower bikes and gives the field a chance to spread out a bit and reduce the chances of queues If that reduces options for the number of groups, if I was plotting it, I'd just ensure the better groups like Weston Wood and others with the big climbs and cambers etc. are in. The last group last year was a bit too tight and nadgery with a lot of leaning on trees and a bit of stop/hop in evidence. Getting some gas on up those slippery climbs, roots and rocks like Weston Wood is where it's at. There've been some good sections in there the last couple of years - oh yes, and as much mud as you can find...

Re: Magical fork springs. Magical don't do damper rods, only springs, spacers and fork caps. The replacement damper rods for Yamaha twinshocks are from Craig Mawlam who runs Yamaha-Majesty.com. He sold Magical products as well but the damper rods are his, not Magical.

I ended up using a standard road cam All I can remember about the sports cam and the high compression piston, it ran very hot. I can't remember how it actually performed but I went back to normal cam and low compression piston and ran it like that until I sold it.

My memory is not so bad then... My name is Dave Wood but your dad won't know me, I only saw him those few times he came over to the quarry and a couple of times when we went in the van to a trial, sitting in the back on the wheelarches... this would have been '76 and '77. Plus a few times at the shop around the same time when my mate Neil was working there as apprentice. When they had that crazy dog that chased cars down Slade Road. I actually saw more of Roy as he was a member of my club at that time, Sutton Town, in the 80s. I doubt Roy would know me by name but he might still recognise me. Last time I saw him was when he MOT'd my TYZ about 10 or 12 years ago If you're at the AMCA trial this Sunday, I'll be there on my Bultaco or Ossa MAR.

Nice job, you ought to market that.

I didn't remember it looking like that, if your dad is Norman? I remember Norman riding a Bantam in the 70s, he came over to the quarry sometimes that we used to ride in as kids which is now the golf range and Asda on Queslett road. I went to a couple of trials with them as well, as my mate at the time worked at the shop as an apprentice. I can only remember it as having an alloy tank with orange stripe across it - but it was a long time ago...

Their tubed Radial was utter rubbish. A Pirelli Corsa would have given more grip in mud.

If you have Akront rims on your bikes (like the SWM has) you'd be ok as at normal trials pressure the tubeless tyres sit ok on Akront tubed rims using a tube. No need to change to a tubeless rim to use the tyre. The DID and Takasago rims can be a problem though and I've never been able to run a tubeless tyre on them, they drop into the rim at anything less than 10psi Not sure about other makes as I've never had a bike with anything else.

It says you can't run it tubeless, you have to have a tube inside it. So you have to consider that if you're thinking of fitting a tubeless rear rim and are thinking of entering the trial. This presents a real problem if you have a puncture as you are going to have a real problem getting the tube out as you have to break the bead of a tubeless tyre to get at it. That is very very difficult to do without a bead breaker or something else to hand to do the job. Unlikely during a trial so it could end your day. It's one of the daftest and ill thought out rules - actually acheives nothing.

True, but I've had bikes fitted with a grease nipple there as well.