woody

The Bultos, particularly the bigger engine, can slip the clutch when kickstarting. It's not unusual and doesn't mean your clutch is incorrectly adjusted. The kickstart drives onto the gearbox mainshaft, so it has to go through the clutch to turn the crank. Pull the clutch in, it won't drive the crank. The thing to do is not thrash at the kickstart. Just bring it back until it engages the ratchet, which, if your kickstart is fitted at the right angle, should be somewhere around the vertical position. If necssary pull the clutch in and position it where you feel more comfortable with it. Then, on the bite point, push hard, don't 'kick' at it. Thrashing at it is more likely to make the clutch slip than bite. Although they can slip on the kickstart, it shouldn't slip under engine power. If it does it is incorrectly adjusted (or worn) WARNING - when bringing the kickstart back to engage the ratchet, it isn't unknown for the slightest movement of the piston to fire and kick back which, if you're unlucky can put your knee into the bars or the kickstart up the back of your leg. Don't kick it with shoes or pumps on unless you are used to their behaviour.... The MK1 Amal, if it isn't eworn, will work perfectly well on the Sherpa, so if it isn't worn out, use it. My old M92, which I no longer own, has been running on a 26mm MK1 for years and it runs faultlessly, pulls like a train and revs out well. Yes there are better csrbs, but I'd only fit one if the Amal is now past servicing.

You're right - it is - I was just musing (messing) with the 125 to 6 speed 250 hybrid, although I'm not overly familiar with some of the aspects of the 125cc Sherpa. My thoughts on those is that they were a waste of perfectly good metal and worker's man hours..... But, later 125cc Sherpas are 6 speed (75cc too I think) You must have missed my bit about the French 198b bikes.

It's a different stroke definitely but whether it is the same assembly I don't know (ie; a 250 crank might fit the cases) I don't know if it is the same 6 speed gearbox as used in the 340 either. I was just musing really. A lot easier to turn a 198a into a 198b clone if you like the style of the b better than the a.

Find a 125cc Sherpa (they're 6 speed) take one 198a and put the 250 top end on the 125cc bottom. Modify rear frame loop to 198b spec, fit 198b airbox, get a square section swingarm made, paint blue/white and there it is - a 6 speed 198b clone. In reality, I think there is little difference between a 198a and 198b. Colour, airbox, swingarm, sidestand and frame loop.

Not all, both the 340 and 250 came with plastic tanks as well, I know someone who had a 340 new with the plastic tank. The alloy tank is a bit squarer edged than the plastic and can be prone to splitting along the seams where your legs rub (as in every single one I've head - they're a pain)

only a little bit.. it's nearly christmas. edit:- I've found who has it now, so no need for anyone to contact the seller thanks.

Forks between 180 - 200cc of SAE 10W Gearbox 800cc of any modern gear oil such as Silkolene light. I've never used ATF so can't comment but can't see any reason to use it in place of proper gear oil. Barnett clutch plates work well (from the USA - probably ebay) They clear perfectly and because they are higher friction you can back the tension of the springs off more. Moving the cable locator and lengthening the clutch arm gives an acceptable pull on the clutch along with the lighter spring tension. For the engine I use 50:1 with Castrol TTS (or whatever it's called now, they keep rebranding it) but again,any modern 2-stroke will do. Spark plug I can't remember but NGK BP5ES through to 7ES should be ok.

South Birmingham MCC are hosting the next round of the Sammy Miller series on the Clee Hill on 23 October. This location offers a good variety of sections including Groups such as Bedlam and Park Lane, natural rocky streams that were used when the Greensmith ran as a full British Championship trial back in the twinshock days (although the Miller round isn't as hard as the trial was back then...) A central location means travel from most parts of the country is reasonable. There are the usual 2 routes with roadwork linking up the groups, for what will be an excellent days sport for twinshock and pre65 competitors, solo and sidecar. The Miller series offers a reasonably gentle standard of sections which are on a par with most classic club trials, so with 2 routes, there really is nothing to stop you having a go. Forget anything you hear about these events being put on to cater for only the trick Pre65 bikes. There are always a few big rigids taking part and if it is good for them, you really have no excuse on a smaller bike. Especially when 2 routes are on offer. These traditional one lap events take a lot of organising and without the support of riders actually entering they are in danger of ebbing away and once gone, they won't come back. So get onto Tim Fairbrother for an entry - 01562 754827 for regs - or better still, download them from the ACU website. There are enough twinshocks and Pre65 bikes sold on ebay so come on, they're for riding not looking at, drag them out of the sheds or from under the hedge and get your entry in. We have to keep these old trials going and the only way to do it is by entering them. Otherwise it will be a few sections in a flat field over drainage pipes in the not too distant future.

ok, I haven't but hopefully the title will have caught the eye of Andy or one of the administrators. If so, I am still trying to contact the seller of the Bultaco advertised on 1 October in the classifieds. There is no phone number or email in the ad and I have no idea if the contact seller function is working. It seems to do nothing. Would one of you be kind enough to pass my email and mobile number to the seller as you will have their ID from the ad. If they still have the bike they can get in touch. Thank you dajwood@aol.com 07931 669549.

If you are the seller of this bike can you send me a PM or email to dajwood at aol.com I've tried the contact seller function but it appears to do nothing so I have no idea if my message was sent or not.

http://www.westofenglandmc.co.uk/home.html

Yes, I'd agree with that if you're not looking for something modernised for dealing with a harder route, or just making the easy route easier... That money should get a bike in trials trim, generally, still fitted with original type forks, wheels etc. Which will be fine if you're not looking at getting serious and tackling harder sections - by harder I don't mean 6 foot rocksteps, waterfalls and drop offs. It's a popular misconception that today's classic trials have all this to cater for the trick bikes. It's all b*****ks. All I mean is, if you are on a pretty standard trials iron, you won't be as competitive on the harder route at classic club trials as the lighter modernised bikes. Easy route, no problem. This has been on ebay a couple of times now and for the price, it looks quite reasonable, a few mods already and the basis for something that could be improved upon fairly easily, if desired, or just ride as is. Don't know why it hasn't sold before but that may help with price negotiations. Whatever you buy though (not just Pre65 either) you will have to spend something on it, so your budget will only cater for the initial purchase.... There will always be something that needs attention, no matter how xcareful you try and be with a bike purchase. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1961-BSA-C15-PRE-65-TRIALS-TWIN-SHOCK-/330613620080?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item4cfa1b7d70

Well, it does seem 'strange' - however, my only purpose in mentioning it is to illustrate how difficult it is (or impoosible) to answer Bo's question about what is acceptable, or deemed within the rules, if building a bike for the event. My honest answer would be not to bother.

Plenty of 4 speed Bantams are used in the trial - I guess you could argue that early 4 speed engines are visually the same as the last 3 speed. But they weren't available pre65 so by the rules, they shouldn't be allowed. Bantams were also in the trial which had the bottom frame tube removed and fitted with a seperate bashplate which also contravenes the 'frame must be of Pre65 design only'.

Nice bikes in good working order and just about the strongest pulling trials motor of the day. They pull like hell. Edit - I tried to colour my answers in red but it won't work for some reason, so hope you can pick them out ok

Personally, I can't see the increase to 1000 making a scrap of difference next year. There will be 2 factory Hondas and 2 factory Yams which will probably be untouchable by the rest. The satellite Hondas and Yams won't live with them. The Ducati is screwed beyond comprehension with the 'maestro' at the helm so what are the satellite Ducati teams going to end up with. Who'd want one? I'll be surprised if the new class bikes get anywhere. Expect more of the same, Stoner, Pedrosa and Lorenzo doing the winning, Spies maybe and the rest...?? Unless Ducati pull something out of the bag for next year. I'll still watch it though. Even if a race is a bit boring, at least they only last for 40 minutes, so it's tolerable.

These tanks were never made to take stickers. Originally they were screen printed (or whatever it was) onto the plastic. Also, the texture of the plastic is too rough to get good adhesion anyway. Interesting comments about the oily skin, something new I've learnt.

Sounds about normal... Difficult to tell from just a description to be fair, obviously it should have more power than the TY175 but as a rule, the TY250 is as flat as a pancake and usually a 1st gear only bike. If you're halfway up a climb in 2nd gear and have to shut off, the chances are it won't pick up again and it's game over. I had a Godden 250, the engine was sound and had just been rebored. It was 1st gear only. I hated it. And it was so much heavier than the Yam frame which was a nicer bike in my opinion, but that's digressing. Assuming it is mechanically sound and the timing etc is fine, check the ignition flywheel. If it has the weight fitted (steel band held on by 4 allen bolts) take it off. It kills the power on the 250. With the weight removed it will pick up quicker. In standasrd form they aren't the torquiest of motors, there are things that can be done, porting, head work, reeds etc. but standard, they are a lazy motor. I had a ride on a Tony Scarlett works bike once - what a difference... although that may have been one of the special 6 speed motors, can't remember now.

Can't give you a definitive answer as I've never tried it but think about it first - is it worth the risk as if it drops into the rim at a trial it's day over. Entry fee wasted, fuel costs getting to/from event wasted and then there is the disappointment of not finishing the event. Some rear tube type rims will accept a tubeless tyre no problem, others won't. Maybe fronts are the same. If I had it I'd sell it and put it towards a new tube type. It's less cost than the wasted money in the event that it does drop off in a trial.

Silkolene light worked fine in all of mine

Those frame rules are still a bit vague. They don't mention oil in frame or having a seperate bashplate under the engine in replacement of frame tubes - both of these are points of contention, depending on the make of bike

A Bultaco tensioner will do the job I'd imagine (same side chain drive). Just need a bracket welded underneath the spindle area to bolt it to. I had a 320 Majesty with that arrangement which worked fine. You could always replace the standard pad with the modern angular type. Or one from Sherco?

The fixture list and dates are correct - some of the dates in the headings are wrong that's all Sunday's trial is Ullenhall. If you download the entry form it has the dates of the first 3 trials on it which are the same as the fixture list