woody

That defined pivot turn - bloody brilliant The place just erupts.

Yes, most if not all models use the same size.

There is a reason they are cheap... They are also tubeless, so if you are fitting to tubed rims you need to be sure they will seat ok. Some rims won't seat a tubeless tyre, they pop out ok when fitting with high pressure but as soon as it's let down to about 10psi a section drops off the rim. Akront (as fitted to Ossa Bultaco Fantic etc) seem ok. Japanese rims are inconsistent, some ok, some not. No idea about other types.

Either: Find someone with a press, press out the steering stem from the bottom yoke which will also remove the cup, then press it back in Or Use an angle grinder, or suchlike, and grind a section out of the cup which will release the tension and it will slide off easily. Just be careful not to grind into the dust cover or the steeing stem itself, although a small nick isn't going to hurt. Replace te bearings with taper rollers from Pyramid Parts as they do a taper roller that fits properly and without the need to modify the top nut.

I've been using IRC tubeless rears since 1996 and never had a problem like this. Although I no longer have a modern bike, I've fitted tubeless rims to my twinshocks and use IRC on them with no problem. New one on now been used 2 or 3 times and not lost any air. Previous one on for 14 months and not lost any air. It has to be something to do with the new rims. The tyre works fine on the older 36 spoke type and it's only in the last couple of years that the problem has arisen on the 32 spoke rims (first happened on the Beta Evo if I remember correctly) The tyres haven't changed, but the rims have. In which case using a Michelin or Dunlop would seem to be the only answer.

If you go too far down or back it can have a negative affect on steering by putting you too far back in the bike (we're only talking an inch or two too far to make a difference) The pegs on a Sherpa are quite low set as standard and not far above the bashplate/lower frame tubes on most bikes from Model 80. As a rule of thumb, when lowering pegs it isn't a good idea to go lower than the bashplate line as there is a risk of snagging them over obstacles/rocks/roots and it may take them lower than the line between the two spindles, considered a no-no and not good for handling. So on earlier bikes you can't lower them that much. However, the later bikes 199a and b have massive ground clearance so you can get away with setting the pegs slightly below the level of the bashplate (I know this is normally a no-no but you can get away with it sometimes - I have on my 199b) Unfortunately with the Bulto, because they are quite low on the front you are always going to feel a bit cramped if you're over 6'. Modifying the top yoke (or fitting different yokes) to take conventional clamps and bar risers can help the riding position

A cheaper alternative - if you're not bothered about altering the position. Buy a used pair of 90's motocross rests from a Yamaha, Honda, KTM etc. Cut off the mounting pivots and discard, leaving just the footrest section itself. Either using you own Sherpa rests, or a used pair from ebay, do the same - cut off the pivots leaving just the footrest section. This time however you want the pivot section so be careful how you cut it off. Then, weld the Sherpa pivots to the motocross footrests. Now you have wide modern style rests which will fit straight onto your frame. Example of suitable footrests here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-YZ-250-1999-Footpegs-Footrests-11461-13D-/110748554174?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item19c920d3be

If this is what you decide to get, remember if you're buying used rests, chances are they will be bent, pivots worn, serations for your boot grip will be smoothed off and they'll probably droop when fitted.

Electric welding can wreck electronic ignition so if you are having any welding done on it, disconnect the stator from the CDI and the CDI from the HT coil to be on the safe side (or just the stator from the HT coil if the coil is combined CDI/coil. With points it doesn't matter. As regards footrests, yes it was a mod to fit Pursang rests back in the day but footrests have come on a long way since then. They are a bit longer but don't offer any more grip to your boot as they are identical to Sherpa rests. Being longer there is more chance to snag them too. The only advantage is that they are a straight swap. For modern rests, welding of some fashion will be required as they won't bolt straight on. Usually it involves cutting off the old mounts and welding on the new ones that go with whichever footrests you buy. Which, is personal choice - as is the positioning of them - same place or lower down level with the bashplate/frame tubes (you can't lower Bulto rests much anyway) Welding can be done by using MIG, TIG, ARC or brazing. Doesn't matter which.

Yes they can be welded by a competent welder (don't let just anybody near it) BUT the heat generation from alloy welding is incredible and it will distort the whole swingarm if the welder isn't careful. The arms can spread, widening the gap at the wheel spindle end. Same with the forklegs, can be welded and repaired. I've seen repairs to all these by someone who knew what they were doing and you'd never know they were damaged.

They have to be pure aluminium in order to anodise as anything with steel in it causes problems (can't remember what but I was told this by a friend who works at a plating factory - he can't take anything with steel in it for anodising) If so, as the hubs have steel liners you can't anodise them I'd guess the black finish is paint/powder coating - or anodised before the liner goes in.

For the M159 onwards, the liner is thick enough to use the 340 piston, so you have up to the 340 standard size of 85mm plus oversizes

What's wrong with the Peak and Dales Classic events? Or Sammy Miller rounds - 2 routes to choose from. There's no doubt they aren't up to the performance standard of Spanish bikes from the same era, but they are more than capable of being ridden in the above events.

Get away... much better than the 280/320. Takes a bit of effort to knock off the rough edges but once sorted, probably the best twinshock you can have.

Surprised with your comment about price as I'd have thought you'd have found a better TLR than a Seeley for the same money. Seeley is very light on the front and isn't as planted as the TLR in turns. Uphill turns and cambers will be eventful until you get used to it as the front rears up very easily. Similar story if you come to a halt uphill, getting going again without the front rearing up is difficult, although TLR is similar in that situation. I had a Seeley once and fitted an RTL motor but it was hopeless, the motor had too much torque for the light front end. Seeley front forks, being Marzocchi, are much better than the Honda forks which are soft in springing and damping, although depends how hard you are going to work it as to whether that matters. Rear end on the TLR probably works better than the Seeley. Engine performance is very similar really, TLR is maybe a little livelier as it doesn't have the extra crank weights that the Seeley has. Gear ratios as mentioned, are better on the Seeley but the TLR ratios are perfectly adequate with right spprocket combination, although you'd never go beyond 2nd in a section realistically. Personally I'd go with the TLR and you should be able to get a good one for less than the price of a good Seeley - they seem to hold the money more as a collector's bike than a rider.

No - Marzocchi is a much better fork. Later SWM were fitted with Betors, maybe they were a better financial deal than the Marzocchis?

First question is why? I've ridden two 300 Fantics recently, both standard with original footrests. I'm over 6' tall and found the 300 footrest height and positioning comfortable. Personally I wouldn't change it as the bike rides very well as it is. Change the actual footrests for modern yes, alter position, no. Personally I don't think you will gain anything in terms of performance and/or ride-ability, the bike is 'right' as it is. If you just want to do it for personal preference though, that's a different matter. In respect of getting it done, Jon Bliss is in your area and he's done work on Fantics (don't have his contact details though)

That isn't really an effective way of doing it. The only way is to cut the entire back off so that it is split in half. That way the core is exposed and you can see what you're dealing with. The core may be clogged up, broken or even rotted and require cleaning or replacing. If it is clogged, you have to bodge or drill out the caked on carbon from all the blocked holes. Cuttin a small window isn't the way to go as it doesn't reveal the true state of what's inside. Neither can you effectivly remove all the old packing and replace with new.

The English for Nachlauf = trail

From memory yes, both Grimeca Mick's bike

All i was trying to achieve was to get the 199B to steer like my Ossa and James Ossa and Bulto like chalk and cheese, the Ossa really was a quick steering bike for it's day, especially the MK1 with the short swingarm Longer shocks on the 199b, get the suspension working well and it will feel much better. But never steer like the Ossa unless you pull the steering in and even then... The last James I rode made my Ossa feel like a chopper...

Cover is late 70s Phantom Not as 'new' as the 242/330 swingarm. I think he rides on the middle route in 'Trialeros' class which isn't a category based on the year of the bike - I think.

It was this one