turps

Ross, The SCRMC have an aircooled mono class in club trials and just over the border th Cumberland County also have one. As far as the SCRMC club is concerned ACM could be the way forward as I dropped over 50 marks on the supposedly very easy white route last week! Not sure if it was a lack of skill on my part (probably) or just the trial had been set out for all the modern bikes that go and not the classic ones.

I'm pretty sure that all Montesas use a common puller, most trials suppliers should have one in stock.

Just back from Stow and wanted to say what a great trial. Well set out and nice to see a classic only trial with so many entries. Just make sure you get the same weather for the rest of them.

Yes Tam hope to be there,

Suzuki, done nowt to the SWM, winter hibernation etc

Where exactly is it ? I've not been able to find any details yet but am looking forward to entering thanks

Great news Tam, try and make some to the south of the central belt.

Its been a while since I've done anything to the bike due to various reasons, however after looking at all the things suggested it never got any better. In fact now I don't even have a spark, leading me to believe that its the stator ignition coil. I would like to replace this but the only part number I have is the SWM one and I could do with the Bosch number as I have seen a few on the web at reasonable prices but would hate to get the wrong one. Will any Bosch coil be compatible if the hole centres line up ? or do I have to get the exact one, Thanks in advance.

Thanks Martin I'll try that first, sounds like my kind of budget. James

I have a really bad misfire on my 1980 TL320 and am looking for advice. My bike starts 1st or 2nd kick and ticks over great and runs at slow speed fine but as soon as I open the throttle it starts to backfire, I have changed points, condenser, coil, plug lead and plug to try and cure this fault. I have also cleaned out the carb and fitted an in-line fuel filter. There is a chance that when I reassembled the engine that I may have put the disc valve in slightly the wrong position but have yet to check this, I wonder if this would make much of a difference to the performance, as, if it is in the wrong place it will only be out by one or two splines. I will have a look at this later this week. The only other thing I can think of doing is changing the ignition coil on the stator. Not sure how readily avaliable (or cheap as I'm on a budget) they are. I know you can get them off the shelf for many Jap bikes but am unsure if any would be compatable. Any advice would be welcome thanks

The black engine that I have has two grubscrews at the bottom of the barrel. Take these out and press the smaller liner out and hey presto you have a 325 barrel. Don't know about any other differences but I believe that the pistons are quite hard to come by.

If you have the original spokes from the 17'' wheel why not add half an inch onto the standard length, or just to be on the safe side three quarters of an inch and take off any excess.

Thanks for that its given me some food for thought

Hi there. How easy is it to fit bigger wheels to a TY80 ? My son looks like he'll be a bit big for his Ty soon and I was thinking that I could pick up some bigger wheels to make it last him a bit longer. I have a spare frame and swinging arm which I am prepared to modify. I thought that wheels from a DT50 or similar would do, or maybe just a set of rims to lace the original hubs to. I reckon the first thing to change would be the fork length by making some spacers to fit on the original forks and also lengthen the swingarm or manufacture a new one to take the larger wheel. If I kept the suspension mounts in the original place it should raise the back end enough so that the wheel clears the mudguard on full travel. The problem being that the original guard will be a little short does anyone know of an alternative that may fit? What did Whitehawk use ? It turns pretty well at the moment but I'm not sure if the geometry would need to change to suit the longer wheelbase, I could tighten up the head angle if neccessary. Any advice would be welcome thanks very much

I've replaced virtually everything but the points so this is the next logical step. The reason that I asked about alternatives to standard is that its normally a bit cheaper to buy car spares and if I can just pop in to the shop round the corner it will save me p+p charges too. ( maybe its right what they say about us Scots)

Yes I'm going on Satusday and hoping to camp but weather doesn't look too promising, prbably be on the 'trusty' Suzuki. See you there James

I have now ridden my TL320 in two trials since I rebuilt it from 5 boxes of parts, however there seems to be a problem as I have had 2 DNFs due to a misfire developing. The reason for this I think is that it may need a new set of points as I never changed them during the rebuild. I know where I can get genuine replacement points for it but was wondering if anyone is aware of any compatible sets from an old car that would be handier to pick up from my local motor factors. I have read elsewhere on this forum that some old chainsaws use the same ones, any idea of the model I would be looking for? Thanks in advance.

Yes thats the way it should be,

I have made my own to replace the OE ones, but only to replace them as they broke. Footrest width isn't important the secret to stop bruised shins, legs etc, is to keep your feet up. If only I could find the secret.

Certainly hope to be, The budgets helped with a whole 1p/litre taken off !

When I'm speeding down the queens highway looking like a streak of lightning. I may not use it very often but it is nice to have it when I need it and as the gearbox seized its better to have it working properly so hopefully it won't happen again.

I have just rebuilt my engine (reed valve type), and am having trouble with gear selection. I can get the first four gears but it doesn't want to go into fifth, does anyone have any tips on where I might have gone wrong. I thought that I had put it together according to the diagram in the manual but perhaps not. Any ideas would be appreciated thanks.

I've had a Beamish for the last 9 years and although its heavy, a bit long and lacks grip in certain situations it's still quite a good a good bike. It might not be as good as a Bultaco or Montesa and certainly nowhere near as good as a Fantic but a lot of it is how well you ride it and not how good the bike is. The best thing to do is get out there and enjoy it whether challenging for wins or trying not to be last (as in my case), also try not to fall off or get stuck halfway up a hill cos its weght cant half take it out of you after a while.

Yeah I know but having a lot of trouble with the Beamish at the moment. The reason that I retired from the last trial was that the 5th gear dog had broken and the engine is stripped and ready to rebuild only problem being I have not yet sourced a replacement, waiting on a bloke to get back to me. AS soon as thats sorted then SWM will soon follow,(hopefully)