wayne_weedon

Sadly Colin Didn't know. Wayne...

No but something close enough, that is if they still actually stock them on the shelf! Most automotive Condensers are of a similar capacitive value and work. Wayne...

Looks pretty like a Gripper Arm with its horns cut off and new shock mounts fitted. As well as a few other additional bosses. Just taken and attached a couple pictures of the swinging arm from the Gripper I have just stripped down a bit to compare. Wayne....

http://www.greevesmotorsport.co.uk/ That one? or another? Wayne....

NOt sure if they are imported over here. The FJ name didn't mean anything to me, but I just googled it and yes the blue is similar. Wayne...

I would have thought not much of a market, BUT I could very well be wrong. Ossa's don't seem the make the same money a Bultaco seems to from what sales I have seen recently on ebay for example, and there have been some bikes that looked in pretty good shape. But whatever it's honourable that someone should try. Wayne....

...and as far as the Bulto family is concerned (at least according to a grandson I spoke to a few times) the name is theirs. While Bultaco Motorcycles (previously Hugh's Bultaco) seem to have registered the copyright on the logo's It's probably a right legal mess! The family seem to promote the more recent merchandising efforts by someone. Wayne....

Funny you should say that John. I just cleaned the tank with a bit of T-Cut (No lacquer left on the tank) and thats what I came up with when offering the RAL colour swatches to it. A slightly "muddier" blue compared to Electric Blue. Wayne...

I was pretty damned pleased myself how it turned out in the end. Not sure what to do next now! Probably clean up the bash plate and refit and then start working on the front end. I'll probably wet spray the blue stuff though. Anyone know a RAL colour code for the Bultaco Blue? I always used Ford Electric Blue before, but not sure it's absolutely right. Wayne....

Sometimes that all you need to know I no longer have to and never want to spend another minute in a Dyno Cell if I can help it. It gets boring quickly. Wayne....

Where did you hear this? Quite interesting news. Anything to do with the original family business? Wayne....

Sunday the day of rest? Well had to break the 250 Gripper down a bit more. Front end today. 1st slight challenge was there was the end of a 5mm allen key broken off in one the the yoke pinch bolts. Took the other screw out and just hacksawed through the screw in the slot. Head then just dropped out. Thought I'd have to drill the rest of the screw out so once the yoke was off I set it up in the milling machine but as soon as the drill touched the back of the screw it wound it out. Headstock bearing outers came out of the frame fairly easily. and used my usual method to remove the bottom inner from the stem by heating the bottom yoke a bit and just pressing the stem out. Forks will need re chroming and one is slightly bent. Also one seems to have a problem as the leg can be pulled way way out of the slider! I expect a circlip has popped at the bottom of the leg or even missing. They can wait a bit. Any recommendations for decent fork refinishers? I now have a reasonable batch to get done! Wayne....

Ross. While I was doing this today of course! Benefit of having a few cnc machines that don't need my attention too often Wayne....

New parts for the Rockshocks arrived earlier in the week, and when I have a bit of time to do some re machining on the bodies I can build them back up again. Spent more time on the 340 Bultaco this week, but today I did get a chance to do some evaluation work on the 250 Gripper which was a gift? from Jeff Bungay many years ago. I say "gift?" as it probably needs more work than any bike I have! It was still exactly as it was "dragged" down into the stores many years ago and put to one side. No rear shocks, no tyre on the rear rim, slightly bent rusty forks (Betor) and the head partially on. Can you picture it? haha.... So onto the stand to make it at least manageable. Rear end off 1st as it was awkward with it flopping around like it was! Then engine out. Head was only partially on its studs, and yet refused to budge! well about 1/2 hour of penetrating oil, heat and gently persuading it with a soft faced mallet it was off. One stud was causing most of the grief with the hole furred up in the head. 1st observation was the head had cracked by the top steady mount at one stage and had been quite well welded up. This crack extended right into the combustion chamber. Also some typical evidence of particle damage to the combustion chamber, past blow ups maybe. No PISTON! Hmmm.. Crank siezed solid too... Oh dear! Barrel didn't want to budge, so straight out with the stud extractor and just remove them. Quite easy. Then the barrel came off. Eventually managed to free off the big end and mains to a certain extent with oil and tapping it backwards and forwards. No chance of reusing that although the flyheels will probably be ok. Then found a carrier bag which obviously came with the bike, which contained the piston, silencers and a few other small items. At least the gearbox feels ok, nice and smooth and selects all gears, and its even got a kickstart! Might make a few of those. Probably savable. but marginal! At least there's still some orange paint on it! Come to think of it, it was probably meant to be one of Jeffs breakers that he used to keep on the front lawn!! Wayne.....

It can occur on all electroplating types and the common solution is to bake the parts which I think releases the trapped hydrogen. It is usually more a problem on hardened steels and high carbon steels. Now I'm not even sure what an 80's Spanish frame was made from, but I can certainly ask my platers who are not the average backstreet cowboys (Even Talon use them ) what they recommend if anything. Wayne...

Its Basic Physics. "Power" is a derived function. cannot really exist without torque or revs in the case of an IC engine. Wayne...

Scotty that would be so kind of you. I'm sure if I'd bothered to restore the bike earlier I'd have not lost touch with him. But me an the elusive roundtuits are a problem! I'll probably still not sell it, but I certainly want to know the history behind it. The guy I bought it from seemed to think it's been fiddled with, but only Charlie would know. Wayne.....

Yes I know it can happen. We always drill a small drain hole on commercial fabrications with closed voids to deal with the problem. A good couple of preheat cycles in the ovens can also boil it off. Some progress today. Fitted a little mod which has been in development a little while Wayne....

Of course I'll be riding them Steve. Though I think as I said before I may resort to a Polyprop tank for when riding in anger. A scratch on the frame is nothing compared to the paint falling off and rust forming because I didn't even look at my bikes! Making Amends did seem apt. Time and care certainly, bugger all money has been spent though! Wayne...

Not petty, but lets just say I knew people on the inside and many of the bullied sub contractors. What ever gets said is probably based on fact or personal experiences. I even used to be a customer there many moons ago, mudguard stays I once bought went rusty in 6 months though! I still stay friendly with the old man! Just wouldnt do business with him. The new owner does need to improve quality and according to their own website he's new to "trials" but not Motocross. BUT they now have a stainless TY pipe so I've just seen. Wayne.... That really is enough said!

Let see how the new guy fairs! "Nuff said."

Chrome still OK? Thats amazing! SM's favourite thing to write on a purchase order to electro platers was "FLASH CHROME"

Thanks Steve. It was worth the time spent last w/e going over the blasted finish to flatten it back a bit. The finish on the powder coat is real slick apart from the little areas meantioned above. Thats the trouble with dealing with old fabrications with all those little voids under welded on brackets etc. They trap oil which can bubble out in the ovens. Cota 330 frame will be blasted next week! Wayne....

Normal bright zinc is a c.10 micron coating. Nothing at all to be concerned about. I'm not talking about hot dipped galvanising. Wayne....

Don't count on it! It's not a Bultaco! Wayne....