liviob

Beta does offer a thin base gasket. Its availiable through the American Beta website or your local dealer. http://www.americanbeta.com/beta-trials-accessories.html

Some money for the pro class would sure help draw more riders to the class and probobly lead to bigger money and more pro riders pushing each other to greater levels of skill.

Dont look at it anymore. You will not ever notice it's poor design again.

While i can understand everyones enthusiasm to see the best in the world conquer a seemingly impossible section at their home country. It would seem that the countrys that have partisipants in the WTC would have more concern with hosting an event. What seems more logical to me would be to host the TDN here in the U.S.A. we have partisipants in the TDN. And if we really wanted to make it easy on ourselfs we should be focused on getting our pro class riders a pro purse. They certainly deserve it.

Nice work! Where did you get th fork brace?

If you go to my profile page. You will find a box on the left side that says email contact. Try sending your address though it.

I dont believe the oil manufactures list cst value on the packaging labels. I found a list of suspension oils with its cst value listed in order of lowest to highest on the web. The last time i looked some of the info is no longer availiable. However i did make a copy of the page which i found most usefull. I could post it here, but not sure if that is ok with ADMIN. If you want a copy send me your email adress through the pm system and i will send you a GIF file copy. It will make the tuning process much easyer.

I know many people like their brakes to have a sharp feel but like yourself i like mine to offer a little larger window of feedback before locking. I havnt found any softer pads, however i have found that heating them up until they fade will soften their bite. After doing this a few times they seem to have just the right feel. I ride in very mountanas terrain and overheating my brakes happens often when im heading back to the van after a ride.

Aparently this Reiger damper comes stock on the new Raga 300 GG. It has a compression and rebound adjuster built into it and looks similar to the Showa damper design. http://youtu.be/eNm2zyzKV7U http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNm2zyzKV7U I am curious to know if their is one in the works for Beta EVO? Heres a link to their site. http://www.reigersuspension.com/index.php?page=main&id=3&nwsid=257

Is that accurate info. Toni Bou signs with Beta or am i not interpeting this info correctly.

He,he, Thanks BillyT. I'll certainly try. I dont know if you have ever rode Turkey Rock near Salida, Co. the same place they had the national last year, But a trials there is usually difficult and fun.

Air screw.

Thanks for the tip outlaw Dave. It's possible, but i dont think ther is a problem with the fuel needle valve and usually i dont have to adjust the air screw very often once summer or winter has set in but during the transition seasons air temps and humidity can widely vary throughout the day and combined with the three to four thousand foot altitude changes that can occur during a ride somtimes it becomes obvious that an air screw adjustment is necessary. I'm planning to ride a trial this weekend. I will take note of the engines peformance. Hopefully the issue hs been resolved.

I dont doubt that the ignition can support a .028 plug gap. I have seen the spark of this ignition system reliably jump a 1/4" gap, and Yes I am a little hessitant to set it there and forget about it for awhile. The Beta manual suggests .020-.024 plug gap. I believe i am correct in assuming the plug gap generates a certain amount of resistance in the electrical charges path to ground. With the larger gap creating more resistance I would think it would also be generating more heat somewhere in the ignition system which i have no way of monitering. Possibly in the coil or the generator? My concern is that the extra heat generated might damage or cause failure to some expensive part. I dont disagree with your thoughts i'm just being conservative about making changes of this kind.

Sorry for the headache. Your right i got it backwards. Irregardless opening the air screw another 1/2 turn made the engine run smoother with the same old plug installed. So hopefully that was the problem.

I think i may have figured out the problem. For high altitude riding during the summer 6500'-1100' I have to run the air screw at about 1 3/4 to 2 turns out. During the winter i have to set the air screw out to 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns out. I opened it a 1/2 turn the last time i rode it due to cold weather. Today after cleaning it i ran the engine to dry it out and decided to wind the air screw in and count the turns. I found it set at 2 turns out. I opened it another 1/2 turn and the engine smoothed out at low RPM and the throttle became a little bit more crisp. Somehow i lost track of where it was set or Maybe one of my riding buddys turned it?

I dont think BillyT had ignition failure in mind with his comment, but you do bring up an interesting point. I think i will pull the flywheel and have a look at the stator and check the resistance values and give it a good cleaning.

Good point! I do clean it about every two to four rides and reoil it with Belray filter oil.

That was a lot of info BillyT. Thanks for sharing. Yes i have not changed any carb or ignition timing settings recently. Only the air screw. When the bike was new i did experiment with a few different carb settings but found the stock settings to work very well except for raising the clip one slot from #5 to #4. The carb is setup a little rich on the bottom. At first i thought this wasnt good but many experianced trials riders assured me this was necessary for smooth torque not crisp throttle response. Based on your comments i believe this is a cold foul. The plug is oily not overheated to the point of failure. The spark looks normal and is bright blue. I did change the original plug gap from .026 to .020 about eight months ago. And then again with a fresh plug about four months ago. I changed the gap as per recomendation of a friend who said the engine would produce more torque because of the smaller plug gap. Funny thing here is that i did not notice any change in engine performance yet i set the new plug the same before installing it. I personaly thought that a bigger plug gap within recmended range would produce a stronger spark, that was simply an intuitive thought. I do take good care of my bike. It's an 09 and it still looks fresh. I will install a new plug gapped to .026 this weekend. If it fouls again i will assume that worn rings have richend the air fuel mixture due to ring blowby to a point that now fouls plugs. The engine may have about 100-120 hours on it at this point. It still starts easy and runs strong. Although i can push the kicker thru by hand without too much effort.

Ok BillyT, I would like to hear your thoughts about spark plugs .

You brought up a good point Jon. I had been thinking of trying a br5es like i use in my 250 rev3. Only because if changing the plug gap a few thousandths cools the plug enough to cause it to foul then maybe a hotter plug would be better. I used to weld for a living and a technique i usd to control the heat of the puddle while welding was to vary the length of the arc. A short arc would cool the puddle and a long arc would produce more heat. I think changing the gap of the plug would produce the same results. When i used the larger plug gap i did not foul plugs. What is a progected tip plug?

Thanks for the replies. All good thoughts. Thats what i was thinking Copemech since the gap is the only thing i have changed and i have fouled two plugs since the change in gap setting. I will go back to a larger plug gap setting.

I took a moment to look in the owners manual to see what the plug gap specs are and it says .5mm-.6mm which is equivelant to .020-.024. I guess since my plug gap is .020 the plug may not be the issue here.

Over the weekend i changed the oil in my bikes forks. I am trying to firm the compression feel up a little. I didnt break the fork legs down completly to measure the passages in the damper rod as nif40 may not have the same year bike and breaking them down completly requires more time. What i did was in the right leg replace the red line light "18.4cs" with motul shock oil "16.1cs" which is a faster oil and in the left leg i replaced the Belray HVI 3wt "11cs" with Silkolene pro rfs 2.5wt "13.6cs". Which is a slower oil. I left the spring preload setting alone and used the factory oil height setting. What i noticed wad a slightly slower or firmer compresion stroke equivelint in feel to one to two clicks on a compression adjuster. I porposely did not make any change to the rear suspension and now the front is a little slower during compression than the rear.

No carb changes other than lowering the needle one clip and the occsional air screw adjustment and the same opti-2 oil and ratio of 70/1 since new. I changed the plug gap four to six month prior to the last plug change.