It isnt visible in the video ,butt He must have some kind of secret propulsion system in play when he raises the rear wheel up. Looks as though he may be squeezing his but cheeks as the front wheel leaves each rock.
After opening the carb and inspecting the jets i found a 27.5 pilot and the needle in the second clip and a 145 main. I'm going to try a 30 pilot and needle in the third clip position and a 135 main. I'm hoping this change will add some more bottom end torque.
Funny you would mention the Boyesen reeds. I forgot that i do have a fresh set of them installed and i had to richen the air screw so maybe they did have some effect on jetting.
When i installed the vforce reed i discovered that i did not install the boyesen reed petels.
Thanks Copemech. Mainly i want this motor to pull second gear a little better. When i rode it the other day i noticed that the previous owner had set the jetting very lean. So lean that the spark arrestor screen was grey/white. I couldnt fix it with an air screw adjustment. I'll ride it again after sorting the jetting before making any more changes. If i can get what i'm after with jetting changes I'll stop there.
Yesterday I had a chance to ride this bike for the first time after a year spent refreshing it. I discovered that it dosent feel all that much different than my 290 Evo. I really like the smooth power delivery of this motor however i would like a little more power. I would like to try to recover the power lost to high altitude. The engine easily loses 20% of its power at the altitudes i ride at. I am considering advancing the ignition as far as is safe or to the stop if possible. Anyone know how far it is safe to advance the ignition? It does have an extra flywheel on the clutch side of the crank. removing this would speedup the rpm spoolup. I could also shave the head to bump the compression some. I would like to start with the ignition advance since it costs no money and is fairly easy. Anyone have any thoughts about ignition advance?
I believe the rear brake has air in the line and want to bleed it out. I want to know if their is a method that makes this process easy for one person. Considering the high point in the system is the brake line loop above the airbox the only way i can think of is to remove the whole rear section of the bike and hold the brake caliper straight up above the master cylinder. Anyone have an easeyer solution?
I have several Beta electrical schematics however none are for the 01 rev3. They all show a similar wiring layout but none show a voltage regulator like the unit thats mounted in my rev3. The schematics show a red for power to the thermal switch and on to the fan and black for return to ground through the voltage regulator. My voltage regulator has also has a pair of blue wires. One is hot with 12 volts and the other does not connect to the mount/ground tab on the regulator. It connects to the red wire from inside the voltage regulator. when i jumper the two blues together the red becomes hot with 12 volts. If i remove the jumper from the blue wires the red is hot with 6 volts. The black return connects to the mount/ground tab internaly. This is a goofy setup. These wires coming out of the voltage regulator are definitly stock however there is no hot lead to power the lights? The only sensible thing to do with this wiring setup is leave it alone and connect the lights into the hot 12volt blue lead and return the lights to ground. Unless someone has a better solution. Question; are the lights 12volts?
What you describe for a solution makes very good sense. However the remaining looms which i describe look factory and the fan does seem to work properly even though it seems to be setup on two seperate power sources? I sent you my e-mail address so after reviewing the wiring schematic hopefully this will make sense. Thanks for the help.
I have an 01 250 rev3 that i have been refreshing and i am trying to find a power source for the headlight. The previous owner hacked the wiring looms so this is what i have. There is a large yellow wire coming out of the generator which go's into the regulator. I'm guessing this yellow is the hot lead to power the acceseries. THis yellow does not come out of the regulator. What comes out of the regulator is two blue wires which go out to the thermostat and return to the regulator from the thermostat. Then there is a red and a black wire which go out to the fan and return to the regulator. There is no wire for the light acceseries? I thought of jumping off one of the thermostat leads however its not possible to tell which lead is always hot unless the motor is running. To get to these wires the pipe must be removed and the radiator moved from its fastend in position. Where can i get power for the headlight?
Call Dennis at Speed tech. He can service the paioli damper 316-262-7223. He is located in Kansas.
I think Jim at the racers edge can also service it. 303-986-2107. He is located in Denver
Hello johnnybmac. I noticed that you ride into the rocks straight legged and dont use your legs to unload the suspension to help you up and over. I think if you ride on the balls of your feet with weight slightly back as you make your approach and bend your legs a little and jump up and forward with a blip just as your front tire touches the rock you can cause the rear suspension to preload and unload allowing the rear tire to lift and climb up the rock face. Try hitting the rock with your front tire 3/4 of the way up the rock face. Oops! I just noticed that others have written somthing similar.
