liviob

Ok, I undestand. Thanks!

embed wont work? Maybe this will work.

I am also refreshing an 01 rev3 Beta. The only updates i performed were to install an 02 airbox and assorted parts necessary to retrofit the new airbox. I also needed to replace the footrest hangers as they were both bent. I used a set of new stock hangers because i didnt know where to find somthing sturdyer. I also am going to use a new set of the stock Beta footrests because they bend so easily. The stock hangers will hopefully last longer if the footrests yield first.

Toni's HRC factory built Montesa is vastly different from the showroom stock Bike that you and i can buy. It would be interesting to see how Toni would perform with a stock Montesa.

Is there a cover story for this event on the web?

Meh! If Toni saw me ride he would give me his bike and take up football, but...... since he will never see me ride I guess I will just have to watch him and dream of the day I can ride his bike.

If you take time to look for a bargin. For that kind of money you can get a 2000-2003 vintage. You will have a much better bike that you can easily get parts for.

I just bought a rear fender for my 09 and the screens were falling off when i unrapped it. If you lightly sand the area where the screen makes contact with the fender and remove all of the hot glue from the screens you can reattach them with hot glue. Thats how i repaired mine.

I have an 09 290 that i bought new. It has the 1st generation frame "gas cap off to the side" and have had no problems with the bike. I think only the pros broke them. If you have a good buy on a 290 its an easy bike to ride. Depending on what you weigh you might need to buy some firmer suspension springs. The suspension is a bit soft on the 09.

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My bike lost its bumper too. A great solution to the sidestand delima would be for Beta to remove the sidestand from the swingarm and mount it to the fraim like KTM mounts their sidestand. It could follow the exhaust and remain out of harms way.

After washing my bike I start the motor and get it hot enough to cycle the fan. I also drive the bike and drag the brakes until they stop squeeling and dryout. I sometimes remove the generator cover so the generator can dryout. I dont use any type of after wash spray.

I have an 09 EVO and i had to rework the suspension so i could ride the bike at a beginer skill level. I dont know how you ride but i know the shock can be reworked. Here is my info. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/33584-suspension-setup/page__pid__254486#entry254486

Now that you know where all of the adjustments are. Set the front and rear sag with you aboard the bike so that the bike settles about 1 1/2" to 2" into its stroke. Then set the rebound adjusters so that the susension rebounds as quickly as possible without causing you to loose control and veer off your line. Keep in mind a fast rebound speed makes the bike easyer to hop but you will loose climbing traction especially in slippery conditions. By experimenting you will find that suspension setup is very personal and based on how you like the bike to feel and the type of terrain and conditions you ride.

If your stradling the bike as if to ride it the left fork leg is the compression damping leg and contains the spring. The adjuster on top of it controls spring preload. If you turn it clockwise you get more spring preload. The same as adjusting the spring preload collars on the rear shock. The fork leg on the right is the rebound damping leg. The adjuster on top of it controls rebound speed. Turning the adjuster clockwise gives you a slower rebound speed.

There is only one sdjuster at the top of the shock. Turn it clockwise to increase the rebound control.

They dont come off easy. I assume you have removed the center bolt which holds it in place?

If your bike is running fine then ofcourse no worries. Just for reference info. I am currently refreshing an 01 REV3 250. Since i had the topend off the motor I pulled the reed cage out to inspect the reeds. I noticed that the reed petals were not making a good seal against the reed cage. I flipped them but they still would not make a good seal against the cage as they had deformed some through the years since 01. I had to replace them with a new set to get a good seal between the reeds and the reed block.

Considering the age of your bike and its service record which you have shared with us It would be a good idea to remove the reeds on your bike and have a look at them. You need to remove the carburator to gain access to them. Their screwed onto the plastic block that you see between the rubber intake manifold and the engine case. Once you get the reed block out of the motor look to see if the reed petels are chipped or cracked. Also look to see that they are sitting down tight against the reed block. If they are worn they need to be replaced. If they do not rest tight against the reed block you may be able to fix them by flipping them over. Use thread lock on the screws upon reinstallation and be aware not to overtighten them because if you overtighten them the reed petals will curl and lift off the reed block at the tips and not close properly. If after flipping them they do not sit down tight against the reed block they will need to be replaced. When reeds are worn the motor will loose bottom response and torque and the motor will become hard to start.

Wurth dry chain lube must be a UK product as I have not seen it here in Colorado bike shops.

I have the 09 290 EVO with the Boyeson #112 reeds installed. I ride at 7000' and up. My carb is set stock except for the needle clip moved to the 4th position. The floats have also been lowered some. I guess thats a usual Beta mod though. The motor seems to run very smooth. I did try a #45 pilot once but the bottom end torque sufferd so i went back to the #48 pilot. I think the stock pilot is #48 and the main is #120.

I have found that WD40 works well for my o-ring chain equipped trail bike, but on my non o-ring trials bike chain i use Repsol chain lube. I hold a rag under the chain to keep the excess oil off the wheel and swingarm during application and apply it a small section at a time until oiling the chain is complete. It dosent fling off and make a mess and lasts at least four 3 hour rides. It's good stuff.

Yes.