sawtooth

Hmm, unlucky, i think i read somwhere on here about using araldite to make a repair, try having a quick search on it. IIRC a new casing is

I have a new case so the seal is at fault.

If you cant get the seal to stay put while putting the casing back on then lie the bike on its side.

Its a bit of a mission to change too. You have to take the sump guard off in order to get to one of the bolts holding the engin casing on, i've found that getting a 'used' sump guard back on is near on impossible due to it being bent out of shape. Other than that you'll want a new impeller shaft seal, a new impeller shaft and a new engine casing gasket (along with new coolant and gearbox oil). You'll also want about 5 mates and a few ratchet straps to man handle the sump guard back in place.

My milky oil looks like its caused by a split in the impeller shaft seal, from what i can see other causes may be a worn impeller shaft or a corroded casing. Depending on the whats causing it then the time it takes for the oil to go milky could vary.

Thanks for that, i take it you fitted it flush then rather than tap it back against the bearings?

Cool will do that tomorrow then

Excellent, cheers. Best way to fit these? I was going to place a drop of oil on it end either knock it in gently with a bit of bar or use a bit of studding and some nuts and washers to make a tool to press in in square.

Is that a definate?

Which way round should the impeller shaft seal be fitted? I've taken the impeller off and am looking at the shaft head on and can see the metal spring in the seal, should i be able to see the spring from this side or should the seal be up the other way? Also which way should i be fitting it from, should i push it in from the outside of the casing or should i remove the bearings on the inside and do it that way?

I just remembered, i already have a new casing, its only been on on there for 6 or so hrs riding and has always had de-ionised water and repsol coolant on it. Along with a new impeller shaft and seals.

Can i run my engine (in neutral) without any gearbox oil? I have a tiny leak between the coolant system and te gearbox (suspected impeller shaft seal), have tried to fix it twice now but with no luck. Am thinking of adding a drop of Radweld to the coolant system but the coolant needs to be hot and the leak needs to be to air (and not gearbox oil) in order for the Radweld to set. This means no gearbox oil and engine running, can i do this?

It seems Radweld needs to get hot and then come into contact with cool air (via the leak) in order to set. So i'd have to have the engine running with no gearbox oil in the bike, is this safe (as long as i stay in neutral?)

I have a small amount of coolant leaking into my gearbox through my impeller shaft seals, i've tried replacing the seals twice now and am not getting anywhere. Would a drop of Rad Weld be worth a shot? Would Rad Wed even work as both sides of the leak are wet (coolant & gearbox oil) Might it be worth draining the gearbox oil while applying Rad Weld?

Cheers i'll have a look at that today, i dont want to over do it but sometimes it seems the suspension is working against me while hopping around, i'll try and liven it up a little without over doing it.

What screws and knobs on my suspension do i need to adjust to make my 03 Rev3 a little more bouncy (for hopping and bouncing), i have an 04 manual but not sure if its the same and it isnt very helpful anyway.

Can't imagine using them on a trials bike, would be like trying to ride wearing roller skates.

I was there, he was truly awsome! While on the subject of Bou, anyone know what the grenn LED is for on his front brake master cylinder? Looks like it turns blue when the front brake is pulled??

Just for reference, i can confirm that the triple clamps/yokes (with Fat Bar mounts) from a 2008 Rev3 fit the 2003 Rev3, i fitted some today, straight swap. So its more than likely that the late clamps from 2007/2008 will fit early Rev3's 2001-2006.

Thanks! Will try using the clutch more, i have trouble using upper body to pull up from bad shoulder, could i get the same effect compressing rear suspenion just before popping clutch?

Cheers guys, i'll stop in at my local dealers tomorrow and see what the standard Beta bars cost, if they turn out pricey then i'll look at an alternative

Anyone?

I need some new bars, am wanting to fit braceles bars so i'm guessing i have a few choices: Standard Beta (2007, 2008, 2009 or 2010) Pro-Taper Renthal The bike is a 2003 but fitted with 2008 yokes for fatter bars, i would like something along the lines of standard Rev 3 2007, 2008 rise, are standard Beta bars any good, expensive? Or should i opt for an aftermarket bar, if so, what bend/rise/sweep should i be looking at to match the standard Beta setup.