neonsurge

Alan @ Feetup should have them in stock.

Malcolm Rathmell, 01423-772885. Web site seems to be down at the moment (http://www.malcolmrathmellsport.com).

Make sure that the master cylinder adjuster (plunger rod) on the pedal is backed right out else there'll still be pressure in the system making the pistons practically impossible to push back into the calipers. If they still won't go in, open the bleed nipple on the caliper and try again. Note that you'll get fluid squirting out and will probably have to bleed the system thoroughly after installing the new pads if you do this 'cos it's nearly impossible to avoid getting air into the system. If all else fails, disconnect the line and remove the caliper completely, carefully remove the seals and use a compressor to force the pistons out (be careful - they sometimes come out like bullets!) Clean up the seals and pistons (replace if they're damaged in any way), install the new pads, reinstall the caliper, refill the system with new, clean fluid and bleed, bleed, bleed. Then bleed some more. Every pad change on my old TXT seemed to turn into a wrestling match so I've been through this myself a few times! Good luck!

At the risk of a (slight) derail: Nice article in Trialsworld Craig!

Thanks to everyone for their advice and kind offers of assistance. I know it's a silly little problem that's been compounded by my own cack-handedness but I'm kinda overwhelmed by the response - proof that trials people really are the best! mozchops and landrover, I owe you both...

landrover: That'd be fantastic - check yer PMs!

I found this web site: http://www.toolsnextday.ltd.uk/Helicoil_Ki...licoil_kits.htm and I'm looking at product # 35080 (M8 x 1.25 kit, metric coarse @

You're probably right, but what's done is done (tapped to 10mm) so I'll need to find a solution somehow unless a Nutsert can bring the thread back down to 8mm. Live and learn...

OK, here are all the details. The photo shows the tensioner arm and the M10 bolt that I've been using as a (failed) bodge solution. Unfortunately, I seem to have lost the original bolt, probably thrown across the garage in fustration on Saturday so I've made some measurements and hopefully it'll all make sense. The hole in the tensioner arm has a diameter of 13mm and is 8mm deep. So what I'm looking for is either: (1) An M10 bolt approx 26mm long with a "shoulder" (unthreaded section - blue shaded bit in the photo) with a diameter of slightly less than 13mm (12mm?) and approx 15(+?)mm long to allow the arm to rotate freely and a wider (at least 20mm) head (red shaded bit photo - head thickness isn't too important) OR: (2) A spacer approx 13mm long (to allow the use of a 2mm washer with the existing bolt) and 1mm thick with an outer diameter of approx 13mm to allow fitting over the M10 thread (11mm internal diameter). As usual, I apologise for my verbosity - I've searched all over for a solution to this problem with no luck and if anyone can point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it.

Yep, and it was all a waste of time as it turned out. On the first lap I went flat on my back in the river on section 5, almost skewered myself of the bars in section 7 on that step out of the gulley (groin first) twisting my already fragile back in the process and while refuelling before starting lap 2 I noticed that my chain tensioner bodge wasn't really working and the chain was flapping around quite a bit. At that point I uncharacteristically made the sensible decision to put the bike back in the van and finish the trial as a spectator. It was worth it to see Michael and the boys riding those "super expert" lines though! That massive launch up the rock out of the river at section 5 was just amazing First time I've seen catchers used in a club trial!

Thanks mozchops, I'll get the various bits measured up tomorrow and post the details - if you're at Hawkstone this year I'll buy (bring) you a beer. HondaRS: You're absolutely right of course but this all happened last night (Saturday) and I had a trial today so I had to bodge something together using a dodgy and frankly unsatisfactory arrangement of washers - not a permanent solution by any stretch of the imagination!

While replacing the chain tensioner block on my Rev-3 I noticed that the tensioner arm itself was very loose. It wouldn't tighten either and closer inspection revealed that the thread had amost completely stripped from the hole in the swingarm. I ended up having to tap it out to 10mm but I'm struggling to find a replacement bolt or come up with an alternative solution that allows the tensioner arm to move up and down freely. The original bolt is partially threaded with the unthreaded section being of slightly larger diameter than the rest (so that it fits snugly into the hole in the arm) and of a length slightly more than the thickness of the arm (I realise all chain tensioner bolts are probably like that and you're laughing at my crappy description but this is the first time that I've had cause to remove it on any of my bikes). The question is, what is this kind of bolt called so I know what to ask for when I try to buy another? Failing that, where can I buy metal "sleeves" that I can put on a 10mm to achieve the same thing - I know these things exist, but I don't know what they're called! Sorry for my probably excessively verbose description and thanks for any information anyone can provide!

They're getting the message: http://www.trailbikemag.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=463 Big SSDT report next month, apparently!

I don't know anyone with an '04 or '05 Rev-3 who's had electrical problems and there are a LOT of Betas 'round here (cue Beta owner with a blown stator proving me wrong in 3, 2, 1...). There certainly was an issue with some earlier bikes but this has become the Beta's iconic problem in the same way that everyone associates Gassers with exploding gearboxes, Shercos with disintegrating big end bearings etc., none of which are necessarily true these days but are what everyone remembers.

But there's a problem here I think. In order for trials to grow as a global sport it needs money and in the modern world that means TV. Huge steps and jumps make a good spectacle and therefore good TV. Riders edging over slippery tree roots and up and down muddy hillsides in the pouring rain not only is unlikely to catch the imagination of the casual viewer but also causes logistical nightmares for any production company brave enough to attempt to capture anything approaching representative footage. TV producers like short, visually impressive sections, preferably close together and in a controlled environment. Indoor trials in other words and in that sense I don't believe that the organisers of the Tarragona round can be criticised for laying the event out in the way that they did. I know I'm stating the bleedin' obvious here (but bear with me, I'm going somewhere with this), I think we'd all agree that real trials take place over predominantly natural obstacles with sections varied enough to test a riders' capabilities to the full. Unpredictable surfaces and sections that change throughout the course of an event test not just raw riding skill but also their ability to read the terrain and adjust their approach accordingly from lap to lap. The problem is, these type of sections aren't usually as impressive to watch from a casual spectator's perspective and in order to provide this kind of a challenge, organisers invariably need to cover a lot of ground. Which makes TV coverage difficult and expensive... Why not combine the strengths of both indoor and outdoor events? Not just the kind of thing that we already have in the WTC with a couple of indoor-style sections at the end of the lap near the start and finish but a proper Kickstart-style fusion of natural and man-made obstacles. This would allow natural obstacles that in themselves don't present much of a challenge to be augmented and extended with artificial elements. This would allow the event to be more compact and more accessible to everyone involved. I'll take me pills now.

The standard gearing on the 04 and 05 model 200s is 11/42 (the 250 and 270 are 11/41). Not 100% sure about 03 but can't see it being much different.

My name's (also) Steve and I'm a... hang on, wrong site. Or may be not When joining a new forum, I find it's usually a good idea to lurk for a while, get a feel for the place and see who the regulars are. On the more volatile sites it's useful if you can work out who's enemies with who etc. (anyone remember the flamefest-infested heydays of USENET?) Having said that, kids' enthusiasm will always get the better of them on occasion (although I'm not sure that Ady Witting falls into even that category ) Hey ringo: I was looking through some old posts the other day and saw what's apparently a pic of you riding with Bermuda shorts over your trials pants. I was planning to introduce that style to our club trials this summer although it looks like you have prior art. May I have your permission to copy your style (bet that's the first time anyone's asked you that...!)?

Why does the Beta forum seem to attract Sherco apologists? Some kind of inferiority complex maybe?

I still have my 2002 Rev-3 - fantastic bike. I had a '99 TXT before it and the Beta's sooo much easier to ride in comparison. The suspension in particular is leagues ahead of the Gasser and absolutely nothing has gone wrong since I bought it. Some Betas do suffer from leaky carbs but it's easily fixed and more of a minor annoyance than a show-stopper. There are very detailed instructions on what needs to be done in this very forum if you do a search. I think the 2002 browny-red plastics are horrid and put a set of 2004 plastics on straight after I bought it. Just personal preference of course, but it gives you the added advantage of being able to get at the air filter without removing the rear mudguard. Have a ride on mine the next time you're up at the camp if you like (next evening trial maybe?) I'll be up tomorrow afternoon (Sat 14th) as well...

At least twice a week if possible during the summer. One evening a week until it gets dark followed by lots of "paddock racing" (ie, talking crap and drinking beer) and at least half a day on Saturday or Sunday. My wife knows that unless I get my regular bike fix I aren't worth living with!

I put 2004 plastics on my 2002 and while you don't have to replace the airbox, you do have to chop a lump off the plastic filter retainer so that the new airbox lid will fit properly. I'm sure if you give Lampkin's a quick call they'll be able to tell you what to look for.

Got mine on Saturday (I'm a subscriber). The 5 bike shootout is pretty good and they seem to have gone about it in the right way (novice, intermediate and expert test riders, each giving their opinions on each bike). See also: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4280

50:1 seems a bit rich. I run my bike at 80:1 and I've read that up to 100:1 is OK. John Stoodley's tech pages at GasGas USA have lots of useful servicing and setup information.

Yep, tap water is definitely NOT recommended as coolant but if you knew the bike in question you wouldn't want to spend money on Engine Ice or whatever. Sorry Ian