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mastering rear wheel hopping

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can anybody give me any tips on this i can get the back up but i struggle to make it go the way of my choice,ive practiced and watched the tutorials courtesy of ryan young but i still struggle,will my weight which is too much lol have a bearing on this or is it purely technique?

I'm probably like the 170odd other watchers who can't move the rear wheel either but I find turning the front marginally in the direction you want the rear to go and then apply pressure to the opposite arm as you lift the back help. As the bike hopefully starts to move swing your hips to carry on with the movement. All about setting your centre of gravity moving in the direction you want to go!

If in doubt just ride the bike with both wheels on the ground and leave the hopping to dibs and browny.

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dont you think that with trials nowadays being able to hop the rear end is almost a must?

move your hips in the direction you want to move the back end. move your hips, load the suspension with your a*** out to the side you want to hop, hoy on front brake, transferyour weight forward. should work but i cant do it without dabbing after ive done it.

hope it helps

As you land you need to nod your head slightly taking the shoulders in the opposite direction to counter balance if you are footing on landing. The engine may be used, as you rev the bike gets gyroscope effect and aids balance. I do the latter when knackered n loosing control slightly.

Practise is the only way

The engine may be used, as you rev the bike gets gyroscope effect and aids balance.

I'am sure your pulling our plonkers with that one.but if thats a serious comment it's food for thought ,,can the small amount of gyroscopic energy produced by a trials engine really be that effective.tell us more ,or can anybody else add to this

ps ,the only time mine revs hard enough for gyro effect is when i'am lying trapped under it {usually in a ditch or stream)

i

The engine may be used, as you rev the bike gets gyroscope effect and aids balance.

I'am sure your pulling our plonkers with that one.but if thats a serious comment it's food for thought ,,can the small amount of gyroscopic energy produced by a trials engine really be that effective.tell us more ,or can anybody else add to this

ps ,the only time mine revs hard enough for gyro effect is when i'am lying trapped under it {usually in a ditch or stream)

i

As above, the only gyro effect would after signing on !

This came from my friends son who attended a training day to which i believe not 100% sure but A Wigg. Take it or leave it but the technics he learned made him ride better. Some of the things ive heard from experts ive thought never in a million years yet the advice as worked.

Spin a bike wheel holding the spindle and see how hard it becomes to move the faster it turns, so i assume it would apply to the engine to some degree.

Having swapped from a 125 to a 250 a few times recently I can feel the difference of a small amount of gyroscopic effect. The 125 is easier to flick around and feels lighter. The 250 takes more effort but feels more stable to ride. Think someone described it as angular momentum. My dad can't feel what I'm on about and always insisted theirs little difference in weight on paper between a 125 and 250 Gas Gas so they should be the same.

Ray explains this as well as I have ever seen here, the two basic techniques, either moving or not. Using momentum, or not. And it takes a bit to get your head around it all.

On a stationary hop, moving your hips and pulling the bike back under you with the feet can be mean a real aggressive move needed. Not easy,as if someone actually pushed you hard on the hip to knock you off. That is the type action required for a big hop!

Watch this again

The key to getting the rear wheel in the air, especially from stationary is to release the clutch lever sharply at the moment the rear suspension starts to unload.

Get this right and the move suddenly becomes a LOT easier.

The key to getting the rear wheel in the air, especially from stationary is to release the clutch lever sharply at the moment the rear suspension starts to unload.

Get this right and the move suddenly becomes a LOT easier.

Definatly agree with that, Popping the clutch helps the rear end to lift up. It's just a case of getting you're clutch timing right so you don't stall the bike, Give it time though & it will all come to you at once.

The key to getting the rear wheel in the air, especially from stationary is to release the clutch lever sharply at the moment the rear suspension starts to unload.

Get this right and the move suddenly becomes a LOT easier.

Yes,BUT, this basically requires a Full Pop on the clutch, and thus as in Ray's suggestions, you will likely pop yoursel right out the section unless you get the basic motion down first.

No, just a half pop will do.

If you pop yourself right out of the section then you have other fundamental problems to deal with!

No, just a half pop will do.

If you pop yourself right out of the section then you have other fundamental problems to deal with!

ha ha ha ha :rotfl:

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