August 16, 201214 yr I got all crazy and bought a spark plug socket and took the old socket and with a dremel cutting disc cut off the hex end of the socket. Now that hex end fits in the top of the fork cap and also my 3/8 drive ratchet fits in the cut off hex end of the spark plug socket. For a fork seal driver I use a chunk of PVC pipe, off hand I forget the exact size but I think it is 1 1/2 but measure first before going off my memory. I used the dremel to round off the end of the pipel (Sure glad I bought my wife that Dremel for her birthday )
August 16, 201214 yr Author okay so these 2 seals arrived from ryan young today..................... I thought there was more to this.... Either way I'm going to pull them apart here soon.
August 16, 201214 yr Looks right from here. :popcorn:What are those pistons from..just being nosy. Edited August 16, 201214 yr by ham2
August 16, 201214 yr Author I used a bolt upside down and a pair of vise-grip pliars. Okay now according to the sherco resource manual on rebuilding the fork, there is actually TWO seals per fork, and inner and outer. I only got one for each fork. So I guess I am stuck with the cracked upper seals .... more soon.
August 16, 201214 yr Author Looks right from here. :popcorn:What are those pistons from..just being nosy. Toyota 22r 1984 Pickup 4x4 Webber carb, longtube header chevy leaf springs... a real nice rig but the rings on cyl #1 and #4 broke and I lost compression. I just ordered a hone brush and some new rings and bearings... I'm also working on a 1984 nissan diesel rebuilding the injector pump.
August 17, 201214 yr There should be 1 fork seal then a wire retainer with a wiper seal fitted into the top of the fork slider on each side. Very simple forks to work on
August 17, 201214 yr I have done my fork seals many times.... ..wait that makes me sound like I don't know what I am doing. Anyways I had issues with internal parts braking and rubbing together making metal shavings and a knick in the tube etc..... I think you have the same forks I do. Both sides have the same internals. There is a dust seal that you pry up with flat blade screw driver and then the wire retaining clip and under that is the fork oil seal. Check out these links http://www.sherco.com/wayne/Sherco_Fork_Seal_Replacement.pdf http://www.sherco.com/EN/wayne_corner.html
August 17, 201214 yr Author I got everything apart The fork seal is right but I never got sold a new dust wipe seal.... I dont want to do this labor and not replace the seal(S)... otherwise I'll be replacing the seals again when mud gets inside. What do ya'll think about this? Why would Ryan Young only sell me half of what I would obviously need? Edited August 17, 201214 yr by bmktw2
August 17, 201214 yr The SKF kits are the only ones that come with the outer wipers. They are relately new to the trials market it seems and I have not had any experience with them yet are they really green? Factory wipers are more expensive as well. When you order seals, you get seals only.
August 20, 201214 yr Author I'll be ordering dust wipers Monday. Is there any other part I should replace in the forks? How about those brass-lookin bushings? ...on another note... The chain tension adjuster is almost maxed out, so I think its time for new chain and sprockets. What gear combination works good also with trail riding? Good brand name recommendations would also be nice.
August 20, 201214 yr I'll be ordering dust wipers Monday. Is there any other part I should replace in the forks? How about those brass-lookin bushings? ...on another note... The chain tension adjuster is almost maxed out, so I think its time for new chain and sprockets. What gear combination works good also with trail riding? Good brand name recommendations would also be nice. The forks should be ok, just get it back together. As far as gearing goes, it is personnal choice, and how fast you need to go. As the stock gearing is 10:42, there is a large gap between the section gears (123) and the trail gears(4,5). I have used a 44 rear in the past that helps narrow the rande a bit and make 4-5 more usable in the transition, yet it does lower top speed a tad. Most bikes of that vintage came standard with a half link made into the stock Regina chain. I cannot recall for sure on the '02, might ck yours. If it has been changet it may explain why it could have started out at halfway on the adjuster cams and with a bit of wear is topped out. See how far the chain lifts off the rear sprocket and inspect the teeth for hooking and wear. Oversize snailcams are available if you have room on the swingarm for the axle to slide back a bit. There are only a couple of chain manufacturers that make half-link kits, but the Regina(being one) is a good chain, and the factory one is expensive. See what you have and get a better idea your exact needs before making any choices here. Also, depending upon how much mud you ride in, neoprene fork booties or seal-savers may be recomendable. they keep crap out. Edited August 20, 201214 yr by copemech
August 22, 201214 yr Depending on your local climate those fork boties can trap moisture...not a problem for Texicans I would think?
August 24, 201214 yr Depending on your local climate those fork boties can trap moisture...not a problem for Texicans I would think? It is a bit ironic here in the places we ride. If dry, the sand is fine like talc and slick on top of a hard base. It gets into everything and you'll be getting sand out your ears and butt for a week! When it rains a bit, traction is excellent, no dust! When it rains a lot, the sand becomes a slopfest, it gets everywhere again and butt gets raw! Traction nil again, such joy! Wash everything at least twice!
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