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2002 290 Resoration - New To Trials


bmktw2
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Forks are on hold....

Still waiting on the wipers to arrive from canada.... :stoned:

I bought this bike on august 9th. I havent rode it once yet.

I cant wait to be done with all the work. I'm ready to test it out. This bike is going to blow my riding friends minds!

They have never even seen a trials bike before. No one has one around here. I've never seen one. Mine is the first trials bike I have ever seen in person.

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Yup, I used to pick up some really cheap (thanks to the exchange rate) clothing and consumables from Yamaha MX dealers when I was on holiday. When I told the sales people it was all for a trials bike I almost had to draw them a picture. The place is so flat that I don't know where you're going to mark out a section...Britton Hill perhaps? max elevation 100 metres? :hyper:

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  • 2 weeks later...
 
 
 
 

I just spent $400 at the Spat Shop.

Got 2005 silver gas tank, rear fender, front fender, seat decal, fork decals and the "Sherco" frame decals.

Restore it a little bit.

WoW, that should make a really fine looking bike on '05 colors!!!!

Since you are new, i would reccomend you save that stuff for a while because you are likely to crash a lot at first, or at least fall over!

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Tell us again where you are in FL? There are other trials riders there. Need to hook you up.

Basic Tips: Bars and Levers:

Bars- Loosten bars and rotate forward. Insert allenwrench into forfard clamp screw. Bring crossbar back to toutch allen wrench(on back of crossbar) Lock down bolts very tight insuring clamp caps are equal on both ends to secure properly.

Levers- Stand bike up on wheels and straddle it standing up on your feet on ground. Gently lay your hands on grips with fingers extended at a relaxed and normal angle and let your index fingers find the brake and clutch levers naturally without rotating your wrists. You need to learn to go uphill and down without reaching for levers. Example , you cannot do a big downhill or a two foot log now(with levers down) without breaking your wrists as you need to be far back on the bike with arms extended.

They need to be neutral(just below level). Lesson for the day!

Also, you need room to move on the bike, bars back is too restrictive. It all becomes more natural once you have done it a while.

Send payment for lesson now!

Edited by copemech
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Tell us again where you are in FL? There are other trials riders there. Need to hook you up.

Basic Tips: Bars and Levers:

Bars- Loosten bars and rotate forward. Insert allenwrench into forfard clamp screw. Bring crossbar back to toutch allen wrench(on back of crossbar) Lock down bolts very tight insuring clamp caps are equal on both ends to secure properly.

Levers- Stand bike up on wheels and straddle it standing up on your feet on ground. Gently lay your hands on grips with fingers extended at a relaxed and normal angle and let your index fingers find the brake and clutch levers naturally without rotating your wrists. You need to learn to go uphill and down without reaching for levers. Example , you cannot do a big downhill or a two foot log now(with levers down) without breaking your wrists as you need to be far back on the bike with arms extended.

They need to be neutral(just below level). Lesson for the day!

Also, you need room to move on the bike, bars back is too restrictive. It all becomes more natural once you have done it a while.

Send payment for lesson now!

lol payment how about a never ending, ever-refilling beer :beer: Beer is as good or better than cash.

Tomorrow I'm going to do just like u said and re-route the throttle cable, move the bars forward, lift the levers, adjust and oil the chain.

Other issues I'm having is:

My gas tank is leaking between the petcock and tank... looks like its been glued a few times and its still wet with gasoline.

Also the front tire dosen't have the bead fully seated on one little spot of the left side. The tire has lots of cracks in the sidewall... looks really old but still full of tread.

Ohh I'm in north central florida up by georgia. I doubt anyone is near me....

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Your levers are basically in the right place if the top of the master cylinders are level with the wheels on the ground.

You won't be able to tension the chain properly with out the spring loaded tensioner that mounts near the front of the swingarm

Shercotensionerassembly.jpg

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sherco-Trials-Chain-Tensioner-Blue-/250891749057?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D1919142742473177725%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D4%26

This kit has all the parts but you may not be able to buy it, Chris will be able to supply you a RQF tensioner & the correct countersunk screw for a similar price

http://www.splatshop...lue-silver.html

Edited by tony27
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Did a previous owner remove that part from my bike?

Your levers are basically in the right place if the top of the master cylinders are level with the wheels on the ground.

You won't be able to tension the chain properly with out the spring loaded tensioner that mounts near the front of the swingarm

Shercotensionerassembly.jpg

http://www.ebay.co.u....&prg=1011&rk=4

This kit has all the parts but you may not be able to buy it, Chris will be able to supply you a RQF tensioner & the correct countersunk screw for a similar price

http://www.splatshop...lue-silver.html

Whats the maintenence schedule like on these shercos?

Do you have to change pistons often as part of the maintenance?

AND my bike has a PWK carb on it. The carb was purchased by the previous owner and he did a home made install. Its got a radiator hose for the carb to airbox and the side of the carb has a breather which goes directly into the muffler can.... What options do I have here?

Edited by bmktw2
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I'd say the previous owner removed it, you'll be able to see where it fits if you look on the underside of the swingarm just behind the footpeg

Maintainence basically involves air filter & oil changes as well as greasing the linkage bearings, pistons last for years in these

I run the oko 28mm on mine which is a keihin copy, I bought the carb to airbox joint off splatshop-leave it fitted to the carb whenever you remove the airbox as it's easier to refit that way.

The vent that aims at the muffler is a pain & fitting a hose can be problematic due to the lack of space, I don't bother with the tube. Does yours also have a casting for another vent on the other side?

Edited by tony27
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- "I'd say the previous owner removed it, you'll be able to see where it fits if you look on the underside of the swingarm just behind the footpeg"

I looked under the swimgarm and found the threads where the tensioner goes into.

-"Maintainence basically involves air filter & oil changes, pistons last for years in these"

Im happy I dont have to do major over hauls.

-"I bought the carb to airbox joint off splatshop-leave it fitted to the carb whenever you remove the airbox as it's easier to refit that way."

So the factory airbox to carb hose from spat shop works good?

-"Does yours also have a casting for another vent on the other side?"

My PWK carb does have a casting vent on the other side vent but its not functional... it looks like a vent, but upon closer inspection, there is no hole inside.

I moved the bars n stuff around. Thanks cope

DSC03938.jpg?t=1347222241

Edited by bmktw2
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