2004 Rev 3 250

recently changed the fork seals on mine and in doing it undid the drain bolt on the spring side as per the Sherco guide listed on here before.

Now I cant get the drain bolt to tighten and talking to Lampkins they would need the fork sent to them to tighten it whihc I havent got enough time to send it and have it returned before the weekend.

Has anyone any advice on how to get it to tighten? its a tapered shaft that sites into a tapered seating

Cheers

grip the outer leg in a vice and run the bolt in with a battery drill on medium torque setting, then final tighten by hand.

seemed to work for me. any other way the inner just spun as it started to tighten up.

oh ye, also put the spring in and top cap on, its helps

Edited April 23, 201313 yr by chris morris

thats not the drain bolt its the bolt that holds the leg and stantion together take them back apart and have a good look at how they go together and you will see where youve went wrong

I've got it apart now and it's a taper shank rod, there is a couple of flats on the top section but a socket won't fit, just trying to fab something now, it's tighter than it was but not fully tight ..... Yet!

And a 21mm socket on 2 extension bars reaches enough to hold it and tension the bolt.

Sorted now!

Mine just turned and turned until it eventually was tight.

With the spring installed it should tighten with out all that work! Just pull the cap back off and fill.

Just needs a quick blip with a 3/8 air impact

If you don't have that then shove a broomstick down the fork to hold the rod as you tighten the bolt

Like one of the guys mentioned, it's not a drain bolt, it's how you take the fork apart

Cheers guys but all sorted last night and now ready for Sunday!! doubt it'll make me lose less marks though

I am due to do my 250 evo fork seals. Could the taper not be tapped down with a broom handle or similar to get it to hold. I don't have access to power tools only hand tools, so i am looking for an easy way to fix before I get the problem !!

Any advice is needed

Thanks

Phil

There is no taper that holds it together, if you push the rod down with the broom stick (the wood kind of bites into the rod) you can tighten the bolt, try not to slowly rotate the bolt and rod as you don't want wood pulp or sawdust in the oil

You can get it finger tight and give the wrench handle a smack like an impact wrench would do, after it bites you will be able to torque it up

Pistonbroke - I was told (after I'd stripped them) not to take the bottom bolt out on the spring side, I should have drained the oil through the top. But as I said if you do need to remove I found that a 21mm socket fitted it enough with a couple of extension bars to be able to tighten it.

Good luck

This is too late to help Hoggy out (sorry mate)...but before anyone goes out, buys new forks seals and goes through either the expense or trouble of fitting them...watch this:

Then make yourself one out of an old plastic office file folder like I did.

It cured leaking fork seals on both my old Rev 3's USD Paolis, my Fantic 307s USDs and on my mate's '09 Sherco.

Costs nothing and works an absolute treat by pulling the dirt and debris out from under the seal and dust guard rather than pushing it up into the fork fluid via the old camera film trick. I was amazed at the crap I pulled out of my seals and was buzzing I was able to stop the leaks for free and in only a couple of minutes.

Saw this a while ago and tried it, it does work !

Hi, just bought a 2000 Beta Rev 3 with very leaky seals, is it worth trying the the seal mate tool or just go straight for new seals?

Is a special tool required to remove/fit the seals?

Cheers