OK i've maybe answered one of my concerns above:

2: Have moved the kickstarter clockwise by one spline tooth, this seems to get the pawl gear engaged quicker therefore giving me more travel to start the engine. Out riding tomorrow so will test out the theory over the day.

Edited September 20, 201312 yr by sawtooth

Glad you have it back together. It`s hard to imagine the kick start pawl is not damaged after looking the idler gear.

Thanks, yeah I've had a good look at it and it seems just fine. Must have been lucky :-)

i can answer q1 for you! the bits of metal have been broken up fiinely and are probably al on your oil filler and drain plugs. ive done 3 idler gears and never found bits of metal because they just find there way to the plugs which are magnetic... every time you change the oil pull of all the metal so it can collect new bits or theywill stay flying around in the motor :/ hope that helps

ben

Yeah that must be it. Bike rode fine all day yesterday and the kick starter is much nicer now its moved round one spline :-)

Yeah that must be it. Bike rode fine all day yesterday and the kick starter is much nicer now its moved round one spline :-)

Mine was also moved one spline ahead. makes starting much easier.

Mine was also moved one spline ahead. makes starting much easier.

Ahh good, not just me then :-)

Mine was also moved one spline ahead. makes starting much easier.

That makes me wonder why this is not done in the factory?

That makes me wonder why this is not done in the factory?

Same for the machined metal carb to airbox adapter.

Same for the machined metal carb to airbox adapter.

Details?

Details?

It replaces the stock rubber piece that goes from the carb to the airbox. I have one and it makes re-install of part 100% easier and more secure. (I have no affiliation with V-mar, I just like the products)

It comes with an O-ring to seal between the carb and the adapter, also comes with 3 set screws to hold it in place.

http://www.vmar.com/carb.html

Pic from V-mar website.

Not sure if 2013 bikes still have the rubber one as stock.

Just an "alert" about moving the kickstart forward! take a good look at the bikes on some gasgas website, try to match where they are from factory on your bike. Reason? because the bikes USE the FOOTPEG, as the "rotation stop" for the kickstarter. I haven't had any issues with my bikes since 08 model, with kicker, but I never had to move forward on the start shaft either, if you rotate too far (as warned by GASGASINFO's youtube videos) I "understand" you can cause other problems?

just saying, might be worth printing pictures, and comparing where the kicker is on your bikes? but then again you might be just fine!?!?!???

Here how it should look

Good info, will check where mine sits but I'm pretty sure I tested the movement of mine with the clutch cover off so could see what was happening. Will double check again though as obviously if the footpeg is used to stop the starter I'll need to make sure that is happening instead of stressing the internals and/or clutch cover :-)

Sawtooth,

One thing I know, starting the big bore bikes at or near TDC, like some do, seems to ME, is bad practice, if you jump up and then down on the starter, cracks cases? it really needs to be "back and down" on the starter. I also post this everywhere, but every time I start my '12 raga 300 I like to rock the bike to where the piston has passed TDC (which is technically rolling engine backwards approaching TDC in reverse) then kick the bike in a fluid motion, less stress on all the starting parts, and getting the piston to start moving from dead stop when it is up against compression. of course it is a learned thing.

Edited September 23, 201312 yr by sting32