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About cleanorbust

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  • Bike
    Sherco 200

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  1. The 247c had tubular loops welded to the front area of the frame to protect the cases, no bash plate as such.
  2. I picked up a suitable spring for my 247 tensioner at an old-school ironmongers. A few bike shops of this type also still exist - you know, the type where they don't deal in part numbers but have an old glass jar behind the counter with a yellowing hand written label marked "springs'.
  3. He rode the Ariel into the 1980s, probably did his last trial on it in fact.
  4. You do realise the manufacturers you mention have no connection with the original companies? The brand names have been purchased by businessmen/entrepreneurs who started new companies with the cachet of the historic marque. It helps to sell bikes but doesn't mean the products bear any relation to the models of yesteryear which happen to have the same name on the tank.
  5. To answer the question at the top of the thread: because people haven't heard of Jotagas. I believe they are excellent bikes, benefitting from steady development since their introduction, and the current British importer provides a good personal service and can supply any part an owner needs. I think the last thing the manufacturer seeks to do is dominate the trials market, they have chosen not to pursue aggressive marketing and make bikes because they have a passion for the sport. Whether people buy them in numbers doesn't matter too much to them as long as their costs are covered.
  6. Agreed. I buy steel ones anyway as the teeth stay sharp for longer. Just got a pair on eBay for 25 quid.
  7. If the bolt you have locks the brake lever in place when you tighten it, surely you need a longer one, ie one which tightens fully in the threads leaving an exposed length of bolt which is slightly greater than the thickness of the brake lever. In this way the lever will be free to operate and the bolt won't come loose as it will be fully tightened (a smear of Loctite would always help as well).
  8. Breagh is correct. Not sure how experienced you are but lack of confidence or knowledge of how the bike will react when you hit an obstacle translates into gripping the bars too tightly. Look at photos of good riders and you'll see their fingers relaxed around the handlebars
  9. If you could post a photo or two that would help in dating the bike, and perhaps sorting out the handlebar mystery. I own a 247 and thought I knew a bit about them, but "two throttles"??? Do please tell more!
  10. As you're near Guisbrough, Andy Metcalfe should be happy to give you a spin on a TRS. Hopefully Baldilocks can give an opinion here, he went from a Gas Gas to TRS a while ago.
  11. You need quite an aggressive twisting motion of the fork leg using a clockwise and anticlockwise motion as you push upwards to get the fork leg started in the yoke. Some WD40 on the surface of the leg might help. If you've got the pinch bolts fully slackened you should not need to prise the yoke open any further.
  12. Sure you've bled the system absolutely thoroughly? Any air at all left in brake line will give a deficient brake.
  13. Decals available on eBay. Search using "Cota 349 decals". These should adhere well if applied using a hair dryer. To avoid them wearing through you could cover with clear Fablon applied in the same way.
  14. Tightwads like me would dispute that.
  15. Please see my pm - hopefully of help.