Don't want these Ads? Why not sign up as a Trials Central Supporter.


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won



About keychange

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/23/1953

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    Cota 247T TLR200

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Gender
  1. Would help to know which model Montesa ... and year would be a help as the older ones changed a lot.
  2. Samwisemcg that is the correct part - it does come in several lengths so may be wise to get a couple. No you cannot kick start in gear when you engage the clutch the engine does not turn with the kick start. Best not to forget as a false kick on mine by my son broke the kick start return spring
  3. Yes I suppose many guitar strings are quite stiff - I use a very fine soft brand of guitar strings ( Thomastik ) and so not a problem but certainly you want to be sure that the string is smaller than the jet. They are available in .011 .010 and .009 . I always carry a 6 inch length of .010 in my kit just in case - as it is useful for unblocking all sorts of orifices As for the sticking slide - this is very common with Amal carbies and almost always due to being over-tightened - the quality of the aluminium is pretty ordinary and so really too soft for the job. But as long as you know and work within the limits then the Amal does a great job. My 247 goes like the clappers/
  4. Firstly make sure that your carbie isn't simply over-tightened. Back of the bolts so that they are just done not over-done and see if the slide is working smoothly. Otherwise remove the carbie and get a sheet of glass ( I pull the pane out of my shed window ) place a sheet of say 600 wet and dry on the glass leave it dry to begin with and rub the face of the carbie in circular motion over the wet and dry for say 20 seconds. Then have a look at the surface of the carbie face and if it is deformed you will see clearly that patches ( usually around the bolt holes) have been scuffed by the wet and dry and the rest is untouched. Now continue with smooth circular action on the wet and dry until you can see that the entire surface is making contact with the wet and dry and you should now have a flat surface. Then make sure you don't bugger it by over-tightening again
  5. no not really
  6. gently move the kick start until it gets to top dead centre ie:becomes very hard - then give the compression lever a squeeze and take it just past TDC then release the lever and kick normally. Once you get the hang of it - it becomes part of a natural kicking action.
  7. You have over-tightened the carbie - that causes the slide to jam and can deform the carbie and cause air intake. Back off to just tight and see how that goes. If carbie is deformed it is easy fixed - just ask. Almost certainly a blocked pilot jet - guitar strings are good for removing stubborn blockages. Make sure your plug is good and the gap is not too large ie: standard plug setting is too large gap should be 0.4 mm Suggest you get a decompression valve before you bugger the kick start gears which are unobtainable. My Cota took me months to figure out but now that I know the beast it is a terrific and reliable old mount so stick with and don't be scared to ask as there is no such thing as a silly question just impatient responses
  8. I have backed the compression release right off and that appears to have fixed it - not sure why and I haven't had time to do a full test but has started from cold twice now without a kickback.
  9. Still hard to start and kicking back, sometimes on every kick. I am worried as I know the starter gear on these is not too strong. If CDI wouldn't I expect some other symptoms - engine runs fine apart from this issue.
  10. Well last weekend I did the WD40 check with no obvious change - but I tightened the carbie just a bit more to be sure. Then I checked the valve settings - inlet was correct at .05 while exhaust was .08 ( only 1 thou ) but I adjusted that. Then I backed off the decompression release by quite a few turns. So tried it out and initially still not as easy to start as it used to be (pre- ring job) and still kicking back. I then had to make quite a bit of adjustment on the idle mix to get it right and took it for a ride. The engine was smoother and no sense of overheating. There is a typical 4 stroke lag if you crack open the throttle but generally felt good - and no sign of engine revs increasing when warmed up. But still a lot harder to start - I mean I am used to this old crate starting first kick and now it is 3 ,4 or 5 kicks to get her going. Maybe time for new plug.
  11. jon - very true and I had a similar issue with my Cota few years ago - ultimately it was a combination of carbie and timing issues. I will do the routine leak tests and maybe replace the o-ring on the carbie mount just to be sure.
  12. Plug doesn't suggest a lean mix and there is no colour change on the ground strap or porcelain so again no indication of timing ( and it can't be adjusted ) so I valves are the main suspect . Cheers
  13. Timing isn't adjustable - so I will double check the valve clearance
  14. A little while back I put new rings in my TLR200 and now she has better compression and more grunt. However my impression is that the engine is running hotter - i have no real way to measure it , it just feels hot. The plug is browny grey and clean. I also notice that the engine idles higher as it warms up and it is harder to start ie: takes more kicks. It stalls easily when cold and tends to kick back much more often than it ever used to. Any suggestions welcome
  15. I have NJB on my Cota and TLR and I am very happy with them.