Don't want these Ads? Why not sign up as a Trials Central Supporter.

still trying

Members
  • Content count

    109
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

1 Follower

About still trying

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday
  1. And that folks is how you suck eggs!!
  2. That is really good info you have. I have to say that I haven't gone into it as much after trying four springs. A thought did come to mind. A lot of the effort could be in the cable because of the load times friction. reduce the load through a lever, and the spring load can remain. Fitting a lever into the system on a KT is not easy. I'm toying with a rod from the cable connector on the arm up through the cable mount hole (nearest to the cylinder) onto an arm, with the hinge at one end, which would connect to a bracket bolted to the outer hole. Then make the cable holding bracket attach using the cylinder mounting bolt. Make the distance from pivot to clutch rod half the distance to the cable, half the load , twice the feel, and half the movement. It will be quite fiddly making the brackets etc, and getting them strong enough. This will most likely still comply with the rules. The other way is to go hydraulic, (frowned upon I suspect). To do this the easy way is to cut face off the side cover and weld thicker flat one on with bolt holes for slave cylinder from a Late model gas gas (I think), (get the oil type not break fluid type system). Or option two; Machine out the rack system and weld a block in and bore your own cylinder into it with porting where the arm was. This option lets you choose your cylinder size and thus mechanical advantage ratio. It will also look more standard. again go oil not break fluid system, and bore from the inside, so the outside once polished will look stock. Best to have a second cover so you can go back to standard if you choose to do this.
  3. I have tried removing two springs and the clutch slipped in third gear or higher. I came across an article on setting the clutch up for lightest operation which said to smooth the driving faces of the lugs on the plates and basket. The factory does not bother to smooth the plate edges after stamping them out, and this wears steps in the basket lugs increasing friction. Note make sure all the faces still touch at the same time when finished. The extra side clearance is not so important. Also to remove excess glue from between the friction pads. This definitely improves things and gets rid of any "grabbyness" and makes the clutch give better feel.
  4. I have had similar issues over the years; Dirt causing the caliper pistons not releasing, fluid heats up break drags, break stays on, doom. Adjusting the master cylinder piston so it didn't return back past the tank port, break gets hot fluid expands, break stays on, doom water in the fluid, as things get hot it boils and puts the break on for you, doom (caused by sitting in storage too long) air in system spongy break, minor doom. And as mentioned above, warped disc, wheel bearings, loose axle etc,etc. Good luck fixing this and let us know what you find Frequently clean the caliper and pistons (exposed bit), then push the pistons back in and pump out, with the tank cap off, Don't let the level get too low.. Change the fluid at least twice a year Keep plenty of material on the pad. This keeps the pistons further in the cylinder giving them better support, reducing wear, and the chance that if worn they bind and lock, damaging the cylinder.
  5. Welcome to getting older. My wrists are not the best thanks to riding with the levers too high, so don't do that either. Knees that have hit too many rocks/trees, now are only ok if not over worked and kept warm, otherwise much pain. A physio that helped setup the NZ institute of sport, told me that high doses of vitamin C (1000 mg +) per day, and magnesium for a week before and after an event helps with muscle recovery. Don't forget to drink s'loads of water as well, (recomended 3 lt/day). I couldn't go far from a loo for a couple of days, but it seemed to work, unfit me recovered in two days not a week (which was usual for me). And nowhere as sore. But don't continuously do this, as prolonged use might not be so good for your kidneys. Training tip; This can be done in the garage or driveway, or anywhere you have about 2.5 square meters. If you can balance while stationary,without the motor, back break on (hard) and bounce (hop) the front wheel. Do this as long as you can. It helps your balance, works all the muscles you use riding, and is a awesome cardio exercise. See if you can do this continuously for 5 min. Get a rear wheel support to keep the bike up if balancing is a problem To learn to balance on the spot. Full lock, breaks on and carefully get on and try. The wheel on lock gives a wider more stable platform to balance. A bit like balancing on a 4" plank Vs a 1" plank. To get the rhythm for hopping the front wheel; Stand astride the bike, Front break on, and push and lift the front wheel to find the rate it seems to work the easiest at. Note you don't have to be lifting off the ground doing this, just getting the feel for the rhythm / frequency that your forks work at. This is the best rate for hopping the front wheel. So when balancing try to "bounce the front wheel at this rate" This is how I learnt anyway, hope it helps. Sorry but its just loads of practice from here.
  6. When the rings worn out, change the bike. Mine is still on original rings (gas gas contact JT95 320 cc), compression still heaps (ask my kick starting boot) Power "sufficent" as Rolls would say, so no need to panic yet, will do another decade at least. Use the best oil you can get at the right ratio and all will be well. I should have said nothing, 2 weeks after I posted this; Rode a trial and the clutch slave cylinder stripped a thread. To repair this requires a strip down to work on the inside, and I broke a ring (caught it on my sleeve reaching over) Bugger!!!
  7. If I've understood your last sentence right, you pull the clutch in and it sounds nice. Could be and indication that there is rubbing until the side load on the clutch pushes things apart. Time to inspect, You could be risking selecting two gears at the same time, which never ends well. Go looking for side play. Something loose, or a bearing worn or loose in its housing. missing shim , or shim in the wrong place, etc. A good opertunity to improve the clutch action. Check the clutch basket edges and plate drive faces, (this is a likely source of metal bits, you may need a magnifying glass to see the true wear face properly). There was an article on setting up a clutch to reduce stiffness that covered this sort of thing, but I can't remember where I saw it. They talked about getting all the fingers on each plate to contact the basket lugs evenly, make the faces flat,smooth, and square to the face, also add small rads on the edges. Checking all the basket lug load faces were smooth and had small rads on the edges as well, They also checked that the lugs are parallel to each other, and square to the plate face. The result of the clutch work was better operation and reduced noise and effort on the lever ,so worth doing if you strip the box Good luck
  8. Looking at his bio, he didn't have to pick the thing up. And I think 86kg is heavy, Time to manup. Now where are my cement pills
  9. AS above except I use the axle in the chuck and a tube that slides over it between the chuck and the face plate. The axle is in the jaws and the "head" end has a center in it that the tail stock goes in. Used the tail stock to apply clamping force (not much), nipped up the final bit on the chuck, machined it quite slow with very slow feed on the carrage. pick which one suits and enjoy.
  10. When the rings worn out, change the bike. Mine is still on original rings (gas gas contact JT95 320 cc), compression still heaps (ask my kick starting boot) Power "sufficent" as Rolls would say, so no need to panic yet, will do another decade at least. Use the best oil you can get at the right ratio and all will be well.
  11. If its a challenge your looking for get a KT
  12. Hi, I've been working on setup of shocks/springs recently and have found that for my bikes system the gas pressure helps tune the compression, i.e, it works with the spring to create progression by adding more resistance at the top end of travel and less at the start . This is because as gas is compressed the pressure increases exponentially, so it affects the final travel more than the initial travel. Use it to fine tune the suspension for bottoming. Set the spring sag for your weight and the small stuff. Then start adding pressure to suit, NOTE when you get it about right Reset the sag, as any pressure added will affect this. Then its back to testing, i.e, riding. It looks like the limits pressure wise for the shock is 300 psi, Don't exceed this for obvious reasons. But 0-300 would depend on your preference. The factory settings are to suit the weight of the average rider and the weight of the bike, hence tune to suit yourself and your style/level of riding. Nitrogen is the perfered gas, but air is ok and cheaper during testing. To get access to nitrogen, try performance tyre shops, they usually have a bottle and appropiate regulators hoses etc.
  13. My guess is something is flexing or moving under high load As you have looked into cracked drum,cable failure, shoe lining delamination, wheel bearings. that leaves; cam bush wear, Break shoe pivot peg might be flexing when loaded, the shoes may also be flexing, Is the shoe carrier plate lined up with the drum? (check it matches the drum really well when assembled. Have the breaks on hard before and during tightening the axle), Place a finger across the plate and drum, when applying the break , feel if there is any movement This would mean that the shoes are not parallel with the drum across the face is the cable arm ok, not cracked, flexing, etc? (starting to look at extreme stuff now).
  14. Once you start taking points for bad sportsmanship, i.e que jumping I'm guessing that it will stop Just figure out how to police it and your away
  15. Hi, If you go ahead with this project; Take lots of progress pictures and post them in the projects section, we need more people doing this kind of thing. As for the setup of the bike, Google "Trials Australia" Go to "forums", Then,"twinshock and classic trials" Then, "Steer clear, Understanding steering for twinshocks" It will help you understand the issues and their effects on handling. I built a highly modified bike with very steep steering angle,and the result is very good. But I think I got away with it because I got the C of G much lower and back a bit. Result drop-offs are no worse than my '97 gas gas, And there is no appreciable tuck in unless applying the front break with a lot of lock on, (again no different from a modern bike). I think a lot of this comes from the rear setup. you will learn a lot from this project Good luck and enjoy.