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still trying

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About still trying

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  1. When the rings worn out, change the bike. Mine is still on original rings (gas gas contact JT95 320 cc), compression still heaps (ask my kick starting boot) Power "sufficent" as Rolls would say, so no need to panic yet, will do another decade at least. Use the best oil you can get at the right ratio and all will be well. I should have said nothing, 2 weeks after I posted this; Rode a trial and the clutch slave cylinder stripped a thread. To repair this requires a strip down to work on the inside, and I broke a ring (caught it on my sleeve reaching over) Bugger!!!
  2. If I've understood your last sentence right, you pull the clutch in and it sounds nice. Could be and indication that there is rubbing until the side load on the clutch pushes things apart. Time to inspect, You could be risking selecting two gears at the same time, which never ends well. Go looking for side play. Something loose, or a bearing worn or loose in its housing. missing shim , or shim in the wrong place, etc. A good opertunity to improve the clutch action. Check the clutch basket edges and plate drive faces, (this is a likely source of metal bits, you may need a magnifying glass to see the true wear face properly). There was an article on setting up a clutch to reduce stiffness that covered this sort of thing, but I can't remember where I saw it. They talked about getting all the fingers on each plate to contact the basket lugs evenly, make the faces flat,smooth, and square to the face, also add small rads on the edges. Checking all the basket lug load faces were smooth and had small rads on the edges as well, They also checked that the lugs are parallel to each other, and square to the plate face. The result of the clutch work was better operation and reduced noise and effort on the lever ,so worth doing if you strip the box Good luck
  3. Looking at his bio, he didn't have to pick the thing up. And I think 86kg is heavy, Time to manup. Now where are my cement pills
  4. AS above except I use the axle in the chuck and a tube that slides over it between the chuck and the face plate. The axle is in the jaws and the "head" end has a center in it that the tail stock goes in. Used the tail stock to apply clamping force (not much), nipped up the final bit on the chuck, machined it quite slow with very slow feed on the carrage. pick which one suits and enjoy.
  5. When the rings worn out, change the bike. Mine is still on original rings (gas gas contact JT95 320 cc), compression still heaps (ask my kick starting boot) Power "sufficent" as Rolls would say, so no need to panic yet, will do another decade at least. Use the best oil you can get at the right ratio and all will be well.
  6. If its a challenge your looking for get a KT
  7. Hi, I've been working on setup of shocks/springs recently and have found that for my bikes system the gas pressure helps tune the compression, i.e, it works with the spring to create progression by adding more resistance at the top end of travel and less at the start . This is because as gas is compressed the pressure increases exponentially, so it affects the final travel more than the initial travel. Use it to fine tune the suspension for bottoming. Set the spring sag for your weight and the small stuff. Then start adding pressure to suit, NOTE when you get it about right Reset the sag, as any pressure added will affect this. Then its back to testing, i.e, riding. It looks like the limits pressure wise for the shock is 300 psi, Don't exceed this for obvious reasons. But 0-300 would depend on your preference. The factory settings are to suit the weight of the average rider and the weight of the bike, hence tune to suit yourself and your style/level of riding. Nitrogen is the perfered gas, but air is ok and cheaper during testing. To get access to nitrogen, try performance tyre shops, they usually have a bottle and appropiate regulators hoses etc.
  8. My guess is something is flexing or moving under high load As you have looked into cracked drum,cable failure, shoe lining delamination, wheel bearings. that leaves; cam bush wear, Break shoe pivot peg might be flexing when loaded, the shoes may also be flexing, Is the shoe carrier plate lined up with the drum? (check it matches the drum really well when assembled. Have the breaks on hard before and during tightening the axle), Place a finger across the plate and drum, when applying the break , feel if there is any movement This would mean that the shoes are not parallel with the drum across the face is the cable arm ok, not cracked, flexing, etc? (starting to look at extreme stuff now).
  9. Once you start taking points for bad sportsmanship, i.e que jumping I'm guessing that it will stop Just figure out how to police it and your away
  10. Hi, If you go ahead with this project; Take lots of progress pictures and post them in the projects section, we need more people doing this kind of thing. As for the setup of the bike, Google "Trials Australia" Go to "forums", Then,"twinshock and classic trials" Then, "Steer clear, Understanding steering for twinshocks" It will help you understand the issues and their effects on handling. I built a highly modified bike with very steep steering angle,and the result is very good. But I think I got away with it because I got the C of G much lower and back a bit. Result drop-offs are no worse than my '97 gas gas, And there is no appreciable tuck in unless applying the front break with a lot of lock on, (again no different from a modern bike). I think a lot of this comes from the rear setup. you will learn a lot from this project Good luck and enjoy.
  11. Chuck a tire on it, and see what it does to the tread. It may close up the knobs and that would be bad for grip, I would think. If no difference it may be ok but will add weight to the front Vs a 1.60 rim.
  12. I've just been to what we call a "Practice Trial". It's set out as a proper trial, with all grades set out as they should. The differences are; No score sheets No observers, (local trials don't have these anyway), Ride with your friends, Bringing along potential new riders Ride whichever sections you choose. Ride the section (or parts of it) in what ever grade you feel you can cope with. Which is perfect for trying the next grade up to see if you can cope with it,. also as commented above getting advice/training from better riders. Also good for testing out a new setup (or bike you've just built). . The aim is very much about being social and having fun. The organisers even break out the barbecue. Many thanks to them, More fun than a proper trial. Maybe this sort of trial should be as frequent as "proper trials these days, as it would give people a chance to practice that wouldn't otherwise have access to practice areas.... Just a thought.
  13. It works!!. IMG-7033.JPG

    From the album KT250r

    First ride. It steers really nicely. Back end is too soft as expected, New stiffer springs underway. Its easy to balance. Major difference in power delivery to my GG320. Takes time to accellerate and doesn't slow down very quickly. Clutch is massivley heavy. Breaks as expected; ok for drums, until it meets water then they become 'Drags" not brakes.. Very relieved and happy with how it goes first time out.
  14. Hi for what its worth I'm running my KT forks without springs It works like this; The oil viscosity does the usual thing of controlling the dampening. I'm using 5wt oil, (Note; oil weight is not the "be all and end all" of oil acting as a dampening agent, but that another saga) The air pressure at test sets the sag (initial spring at rest load / ride height) The air volume controls the progressiveness. Air volume is set by oil volume. Higher rate of change = less air, more oil. Note; as air is worked it heats up and increases pressure, Nitrogen is far more stable, so for the perfectionst, once a pressure is established, refill with nitrogen. The air has to push the oil out to leak from the seal in conventional forks, or get passed the cap/valve, so is easy to maintain and not likely to fail during a ride. This seems to be going ok. I'm only in the early stages of getting it all set up, so final results aren't in. But it is a cheep way to vary things. The only issue I had was the sliders being a bit sticky on initial movement. This came down to sticky seals, (cleaned and lubed now all good) Just an alternative way to consider.
  15. Very cool that you guys have changed the focus to; preventing and dealing with possible injuries. Low speed at the moment of failure is definitely a big part of the lack of bad injuries in this sport. Mental note to self; when laying out sections look for any hard bits that require speed near dangerous drops/objects etc, and avoid/mitigate. I'm sure section setters are very aware of this sort of thing, and that the riders are quick to educate them if they miss something. In NZ we are required to have a first aid kit and someone able to use it at the event. The idea of observers having "crunchy rappers" is a good one, even if its only used to keep the observer warm and dry.