jonnyc21

It should self prime with a couple kicks after adding fuel. After that you may need to give it full throttle and a single kick to reset the ECU for it to start but that would be about it unless as indicated by lemur the pump failed.

Montesa's don't come with a seat by default in most places, however they can be found if you want one and are willing to look around for them. The catch is depending on your location it maybe hard to get one though.

If your leaning to E-Start then I would lean to a TRS 250 as most people really don't need 300's. Gas Gas's are known for being harder to start in general. Even my daughters 125 Gas Gas was harder for me to start when cold than my Montesa 300 RR (not harder to kick over but to get started, especially when cold). I know its opinion and having my bias to Montesa's would get another in a snap if I was after an upgrade as I find them great on a trail and at the club events myself. They do have there disadvantages however so are not for everyone. Good luck deciding what to get.

Not sure myself on if it can be converted but I would expect at the latest you can get a low compression head/insert. hopefully someone else knows the exact answer.

I am glad to learn this as well, thank you!

Makes sense, I admit I am quite interested in hearing what others think as well. Though if I still had a 2T bike I would be willing to give it a try. Only have a couple of Montesa 4T's at this time so not really in the cards for me.

The concept sounds good, I have to wonder how long it would last, how it would sound, if it would capture oil more, and such. If you ever end up giving it a try I would be interested in the outcome.

I knot it isn't a steep hill video but it a good uphill splat shot of Bou.

My 2017 300 RR Montesa came in at 164-165 and my 2007 4RT was 166-167 fully fueled and ready to ride if I am remembering correctly. Hope that helps.

Yes and no part numbers are different but one is black and the other is silver. everything else looks the same to me between both my bikes so I would expect someone could interchange them without issue. 11350-NN4-000 - for my 2007 250 and a 2022 260 11350-NN4-L60 - for my 2017 300 and a 2022 301

I only suggest the cam chain tensioner because I have heard of a few of them having issues where they would bind up and not keep the needed pressure and so get some chain slap. Where not a common issue one of the ones I know about was on a newer 260 (couple years old) so figured considering how easy it is to check that part it was worth a look. The one I indicated here was replaced by a manual tensioner and the sound went away and the owner likes it better, however if swapped with a manual version it would need to have the tension checked from time to time. What ever the case I hope it turns out something simple to fix it like changing fuel, the tensioner, or spark plug etc.

Before going all in on that I would double check the timing chain tensioner. I know that you can get a noise that sounds a bit like piston slap from the chain. Would be the least invasive check and if the issue would be one of the lower cost options. Well worth a look in my opinion. Also, unless you put piles of hours on your bike or are not doing oil changes it is more likely something simple like the tensioner than a piston issue considering the year of even the oldest 301's in comparison to how long most Montesa's last in my opinion. good luck.

Bit longer and not as much riding as I would like so going back to older threads seems to be a side-affect. LOL

Both my 2007 4RT and my 2017 300 RR is behind the bars as well... good luck. PS. On Page 34-35 or section 2-11 and 2-12 under service data of the manual linaway posted is the hose and cable routing information.

I know this is a very old thread however I think it really depends on what kind of speeds your going and if road or trail riding. On a decently open trail where I was able to hold a lot of 4th gear and some 5th mid RPM and almost never going below 3rd on my Montesa I was able to get just over 23 miles on the 2 Liter tank of fuel. (Bike was a 2007 Montesa 4RT 250). When I ride a lot of slower more technical trails or higher RPM's the fuel drops and I don't get that much. I had to carry extra fuel to be sure I could make the loop I was riding, ended up only needing 1 of the 3.5 extra I had with me.

I have to agree on feeling that most would not be secure enough, part of why I was looking at ones online that I felt might be better. As for comfort, I can only hope one I try is close enough that with a thin sleeve it might be decent but even then I think that will be the part that is the most difficult. I also had the thought of using some fishing line to connect the ends together as I could then figure out how many strands of what test was needed to match the breakaway of a current tether. would solve the comfort issue that way as well.

Ya I have a back burner thought on picking up several breakaway buckles and testing the brake point of an old tether strap and doing the same with the buckles and comparing the results to see if I can find something that would work well enough I would be willing to use. (Comfort would be a consideration as well) Some examples of what I was thinking about testing... My two favorites: 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QYY82XD/?coliid=I14TRKD5T1DIJG&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQV6QXKG/?coliid=IXJ1F5LZMCJJR&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it I also found some others I was thinking to test as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DL1OI3K/?coliid=I9F82BXNUOCFO&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NZ9SBNH/?coliid=I3OC3XIHVYJGV8&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P1D14GH/?coliid=I1DZW4HLW2WE2J&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it PS. If anyone beats me to this I am happy to give them the credit as it isn't really something I care to try and make into a product. I will likely share the results here for everyone just not planning on making any for others.

I have thought more about your question on why the Elastic is used than most and where I am not sure about it I am of the perception that the primary thing around the elastic that most of the other options I have seen people come up with don't have is safety in relation to it braking if critical. Most of the replacements I have seen people make are of materials that I would never want around my wrist if that lanyard was to snag in something like the rear sprocket or the chain if still spinning, that could take a hand off. I would much rather replace the elastic more often than have it not brake if it snags on something that has the mass/potential to do me real harm if it didn't brake. (Is this likely? I doubt it, but not worth the potential risk in my mind) I would be happy to use something more like Lineaway dose before changing out the cord from elastic to something thicker unless I was able to come up with some kind of brake-away at the top where my wrist is that I felt would save me in the event it was snagged in a drastic way.

If you haven't looked you might check if it has the black (slow) throttle tube, if so you can wake them up a lot by swapping to a white. I put a white (quick) on my 300 RR and love it over the black it came with. Oh and I agree that I have a lot more hop and snap by keeping the revs up and using the clutch more and also feel that is good even with the white tube.

I may not be a young one but I am ~93kg and I find that around 0.34-0.41 bar (5-6psi) front and 0.25-0.28 bar (3.5-4psi) rear on my Montesa 300RR seems to work great for traction, softer dirt and roots I go on the low end, rocks and hard edges I ride the top end of that. Good luck. Hope that helps for comparison.

I might be reading it wrong, however according to the top pined post on parts manual information a 51M is for the Cota 348 and 349 and should be 305.8cc/349.6cc respectively. (hope I have that correct)

I started my daughter out, at around 8, on a small PW50 clone to learn to ride and as soon as she was good on that I upgraded her to a beta 80 with a clutch. It didn't take long for her to learn the clutch even after the auto on the smaller bike and so if your kid can ride a bike I would expect even a Beta 80 small wheel would be a great first bike. Good luck making your call on what to get.

Not sure how well they would work but there is self tapping carbide tire studs? Example: https://www.aerostich.com/self-tapping-carbide-tire-studs.html Just not sure what level of retention they would have in trials tires as I suspect they are designed more for street tires.

If I understand it correctly the tank would fit on the bike but not let you attach the fender, thought it might work if you modified the fender? Considering the shape of the 4Ride tank I don't think I would want to ride one without also adding the seat when I check the parts diagrams.

I agree that to me it is counter intuitive to attach anything to a brake line. Even if it seems unlikely to cause an issue I have to worry about what if.