jonnyc21

It really depends on the design of the engine, example the Beta and Montesa 4T's have a very compact head design that keeps the weight of the engine more centered than a more typical 4T dirt bike when it comes to their trials bikes and in fact when I compare my daughters Gas Gas 125 to my Montesa the Montesa dose have more weight but its so much lower that it actually feels more planted than the 125. Sure the 125 is lighter and you can defiantly feel the difference but in the end when comparing curb weight it was only about ~8-9lbs (~4-4.5kg) or so different between the 08 Gas Gas 125 and the 07 Montesa 4RT on my scale. Just some info for consideration.

I wouldn't mind an E-Bike, however I just can't justify one that has that much carbon fiber when I know how bad I have a tendency to crash mine already. And that isn't taking into account that I like to trail ride my trials bike and so would have to keep a petrol one around as well and don't have funds for a second bike at this stage in my life. Cool that they have one though.

I would trace it back to the connectors (usually bullet type on the 4RT's I have had) and then disconnect the switch and short them manually with a jumper wire to see if it stops the bike fine or not. If it works fine that way then its probably internal to the switch and a new switch is your fix, if it still running then keep following the wires back tell you figure out if its a grounding issue, cut wire, corrosion or something else. PS. I would agree that if your willing to run a second push switch in tandem that might be a good backup just in case. Also I would agree that the most common hot or cold start issues are caused by a low idle.

The statement was "inside the slave cylinder" so I thought that would be bad, however with the way your saying it maybe I am thinking the wrong thing and its just inside where the rod is only? If only inside where the rod is being actuated by the slave then yes that would be fine, if passed the seals inside where the DOT4 fluid is that would be bad. Hope its just in the push rod hole and not actually inside the slave cylinder.

I haven't ever owned a 315 but I have also never seen that on any of bike I have ever owned with hydrophilic clutch setups and would not expect that ever to happen. (two 4T Montesa's 4RT and 300RR, Gas Gas 125, Beta 80) Wish I could provide a better answer, good luck.

FYI: I think there is online chain gearing calculators that might help with this. And as I think about it a bit more you should be able to add a few to the rear and then up the front 1 and get the same, or nearly the same, ratio to keep it even closer to stock feel if you are careful about the calculation. Hope that helps.

I would have to wonder how your riding or adjusting the chain if your snapping one as well. (Edit: hitting it on rocks.. makes sense) Outside of that question I recall something like around 3-4 rear teeth is about the same as changing 1 front so defiantly can/will affect the way the bike rides. If there is a chance you can keep it at 1 or 2 and get the longer chain to fit that would be best to the least impact on how it rides. maybe small enough change you will not have a big adjustment to get used to? best of luck.

Sure looks like it will fit based on this part. https://www.handdracing.co.uk/product-page/geco-billet-suspension-dogbone-complete and this one https://www.handdracing.co.uk/product-page/csp-billet-dog-bone-4rt-315

I also just use a deep socket. To get plugs out once loose or to star them again on install I have seen people use a thick rubber hose on them in harder to reach situations, but not sure that would be needed on a 4RT.

Location, or at least country might help, I know there is a few different places/people that between the US and EU that can do it.

Really glad to hear you got it working!

I wish it was just the chads that can't start one... almost all of what I am talking about has come from people who have had lots of Gas Gas's over the years. Also, in no way am I knocking Gas Gas they are good bikes over all and in the grand scheme of it all most people will not ride them in a way to really hit the issues often, other than maybe the water pump if you put a lot of hours on the bike, so it really isn't likely you will have any issues. Just well known that they are the most likely to need extra and/or unexpected maintenance of all of the trials bikes. So take that for what its worth and enjoy your bike, that is more important in the end in my opinion any way.

From what I understand the Montesa has an alternator not a standard magneto setup. And with the EFI it has the kill switch is connected to the ECU not to a CDI box. So what Jimmy is saying to my understanding is correct, it isn't grounding out anything but the ECU pin that tells it to cut the fuel. Hope that helps clear up what Jimmy was talking about on his last post.

Elaborate on budge not an issue or Gas Gas being rubbish? I think the budget one is clear so... Gas Gas is well known to having had more issues with things like the transmission, water pump, kick start gears, and a few other things than most other brands and a good number of the issues cause the case to need to be split. The newer bikes are a lot better but even then when they are used hard they still are more prone to having issues than some of the more robust models available. I make this statement based on a combination of experience with my daughters Gas Gas, some friends with them as well as others I know well who I trust who have had them in the past. Even then, its just my 2 cents so take it for what its worth.

Coil swap is my first thought when I see the list of everything you have done... on that note. Edge case here, however I had an issue with my 07 4RT not running correct when it had the fan motor die on me. Would run fine for a few but to rev it up in or out of gear it would have all kinds of running issues and get really bad once it warmed up and tried to use the fan. I would see about swapping the coil first though. Good luck!

I have never had my Montesa even once compared to an enduro. I have had a few people ask if it was a stunt bike but that is about it. Even then, if he is against the Freeride then I would strait up ask about a trials bike before putting any cash down on a bike. Good luck! Edit: And if he is okay with a trials bike and you do get a 4RT, if it comes with a seat or you get a seat for it I wouldn't ride there with the seat on the bike or he will probably say it isn't a trials bike.

@brewtus pagging Mr brewtus

I really don’t know other than maybe if you can find an old stock AJP? The other choice is to find a shop that can inspect it and hone it for you? I know motobene (my friend) was able to get some seals and the information on the hone size is in that thread so maybe that’s the best option? sorry I am not of more help. Edit: I think I just noticed you already have the AJP brakes? If so then if you can find new stock/lot braktech they did eventually fix the issue with the manufacturing defect. Though I am not sure how best to check lot/manufacture date on them. or maybe the seals could be replaced on the old master? See if you could order a new set? Wish I could be of more help. good luck.

Have you tried doing a re-bleed of the fluid on the clutch? I noticed on my 2017 300rr that if I am getting drag its usually just needing a fresh bleed. When I first got it I had to adjust it a bit better to get the drag to stop (adjustment of the lever required it to be pulled to the bar to not drag) but after I set it for no drag with the lever against my other fingers when pulled with my index it was fine. Not sure this will help but a few things I have seen on my 17 300 RR. Good luck.

One more FYI on my comment about the issue with the master needing to be honed. The bur is small and cuts a very small scratch into the rubber seal that is only easy to see under a microscope or quality magnifying glass. Even at that size it is large enough to let in just a touch of air. I hope its okay to cross post from another forum, if so here is the thread on the exact issue I am talking about from ADVRider. (almost forgot one was over there) https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/braktec-master-cylinder-problems-why.1090928/ PS. I see the images on the 3rd page are not showing up for me any more, however they looked a lot like post 57. - https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/braktec-master-cylinder-problems-why.1090928/page-3#post-28052194

The ones that my friend rebuilt where all brand new on new bikes... manufacturing defects happen and it might be hard to tell what lot or year the new one you have was built. good luck.

I wish I new why but I found that on all of my family trials bikes it has been easier to bleed the rear brakes this way. Daughters 06 Beta 80, Wife's 08 Gas Gas 125 (was the worst of the bunch), my 07 Montesa 4RT. I noticed your other post about reliability, you may want to double check your master dose not have a bur in the boar cutting the seal as well. I know of several people that had a buddy hone the bur out of the master and then have to put new seals into the Braktech masters. Good luck.

There was some past issues with burs in the brake masters on some of the older Braktech systems maybe you just got unlucky and have one that is eating up your seals? Not a 4RT issue but a braktech one if that is the issue. PS. unless you have an older AJP based system most if not all of the current trials brands use the same brake systems so really can't get away from that without replacing with old stock AJP.

I have had an issue like this once on my 07 4RT, from a drained system I was having an issue getting the air out even with vacuum and reverse bleeding. I ended up doing one last good reverse bleed and then having to pull the rear peddle off the bike lift the rear of the bike up with a strap and then pump the piston with a small rod (tip of a small screw driver) to get enough volume through the system to get the air out. Apparently there just is not 100% of the movement in the piston from the peddle and being able to fully push it in with the driver was all I needed. good luck.

I have seen a few people with very large heads end up having to go with something like a nice 3/4 open face street helmet over an actual trails helmet. I have a XL head myself so have been able to get into the larger end trials helmets but it isn't easy to find ones that fit well. And I wish you good luck. Few examples of street helmets that might work. (not saying this will work but maybe some ideas worth considering) Scorpion EXO-CT220 Helmet (Has a visor option) Shoei RJ Platinum-R Helmet (Visor included) Bell Mag 9 Sena Helmet (Visor included)