jonnyc21

I run stock on my 300RR and use the clutch more, however I have tried a 42, 43 and 44 rear and found that after a bit of adjustment time I liked the 43 better than the 42 or 44 over all. If I was going to change the rear and only had a 42 or 44 to pick from I would go 44 so that 2nd was more usable and I had an extra slow 1st for really tight section work. In the end I doubt I will ever use anything but stock gearing but every once in a bit I consider running a 43 or 44 for a year to see how things would end up working out... who knows maybe I will at some point... good luck.

Yes, the HTX is a bit expensive. I know a few people that have recently changed to the "NILS CLUTCH TRIAL" oil and are having great luck with it. The specs of that oil are very close to the same as the ELF oil so I am intending to give it a go myself. I don't know the cost difference but it might be worth checking into? Good luck on the Specs for comparison. ELF 40°C 21.4 100°C 7.0 NILS 40°C 24.7 100°C 7.5 Also, take this as you will, I change my ELF oil every 2 oil changes (30 hrs) and can't tell a difference in performance on the clutch. I once went to 65 hours on my 07 4RT so I could see where the tipping over point on clutch feel was and found that it only started to feel a bit off at the 60 hour mark and even then only just. I keep it at the 30 hours on my 300 RR but after then 65 hour test I wouldn't have a big issue going over a bit if needed. Edit: looking like it might be as much as about half the price here in the US... defiantly worth a go for that in my mind.

I wouldn't bother with that, like jimmyl I have had my cover off more than once without issue. Just to be sure I just blead the system after words, lets me swap out the old fluid as well as to make sure there isn't any unexpected issues. Works a treat.

I would check the timing chain tensioner, that's the most common cause of small knock on the 4RT's if I recall correctly. As for maintenance on my 07 4RT, I haven't ever needed to change anything on it but oil/filter changes, clean the air filter (replaced a couple because of use). I do swap the plug out every year or two but probably could get away longer change cycles.

Didn't know about the Amal myself, that is good information. Seeing that my friends Beta 300 4T I got to ride was softer off the bottom than my Montesa 300 but stronger pull than my Montes 250 I would expect it to be the same or better as a 260 down low with a slow throttle option like that.

Other than playing with bar and lever setup to suit your preference about the only other 2 things to consider might be to swap out for the throttle with the fast (white) throttle tube and tweak/adjust the suspension for your preference as well. Really the best thing you can do is to ride it a lot so you can adjust to the difference in timing of the engine and feel of the new bike and used to the different engine starting procedure. One other recommendation is to get yourself an hour/tachometer meter so you can set and keep the tickover/RPM's set correctly as the 4RT's need a higher than normal setting to be easy to start. Oh and one last thing, if the bike isn't starting easy after stalling it remember to give it full throttle and kick it twice then 0 throttle and one smooth kick should do it. (the full throttle bit tells the ECU to reset)

I have been on a Beta 300 4T and a Montesa 260 4RT (I also have an older 250 4RT and currently ride a 300RR myself) and I think the Montesa is a little bit closer to what your after stock if you really want a 4T trail/trials bike. The only downside would be that as you want it for both trail and trials its a bit harder to find an extra fuel tank/seat for the Montesa but over all they are great bikes for what your after. As I ride my Montesa on both trail and trials and can tell you that with the stock black tube on the Montesa as well as the gear box they are fantastic on the trail and I never have to jet it for altitued. (thought if you go really high up you will want to be able to turn up the tick over a bit to make it a lot easier to start. (FYI: I recommend an hour meter that is also a tachometer so its easy to keep the tickover set correctly on the Montesa if your going to be doing a lot of elevation changes on your rides.) Also, if your only going to go on shorter trail rides then a Hebo fork fuel tank and maybe an extra one or two 1 liter fuel bottle might be all you need if not then you might want to look into the seat tank set and a hebo fork tank. Good luck and as I ride mine for both let me know if you have more questions.

From what I have seen on my 07 4RT when I was having some strange issues the ECU will cut the spark when kicking it on things like full throttle (or to much throttle) and a negative value. Guessing its a safety thing, wouldn't want a bike to start up from 0 and instantly rev its head off or something else strange.

I have sense spent some decent time on a Beta 300 4T so can now provide a better comparison between the two of them and have also been able to get some good input from my friend who had the Beta 4T on other things. Beta 300 4T: Softer off the bottom than the Montesa smooth but not lacking power, solid and smooth mid range where the power starts to come on stronger, rev's out really nice on the top with lots of linier power. Clutch is very predictable, firm, a little quicker than the diaphragm clutch common on most 2T's (adjustments and tweaks well known to make it better if you do get one), suspension is good a little less compliant than the Montesa but over all not lacking. Single oil for gear box and engine. Montesa 300 RR: Stronger power off the bottom but predictable still smooth just, strong mid range again still predictable but noticeable, plenty of power at the top end as it will rev up quick to provide lots of go when you want it. Clutch is a bit harder pull on the Montesa 300 RR but not a lot but the clutch on the 260's are the same as the Beta. You can remove/change the spacers on the 300 RR to the same as the 260 if you want it to be softer. Suspension on the Montesa 300 is more plush than the Beta and feels better in rock/log piles and on the bigger drops and hits. Different oil for engine and gearbox. Other considerations: the Montesa's will not need to have any jetting work done on them, the Beta will do better if you jet it for your altitude. Hope this helps. Food for thought: The seat tank on the Beat 4T is much larger and a lot easier to get than the after market version you can get for the Montesa so if you are planning on using it for a mix of trials and trails that could be a consideration if you like long trail rides.

Low idle is a common issue, needs to be 1800... The bank angle sensor can fail on them, find it and bypass the two outside wires with a jumper to test. the throttle stop can ware a bit or get tweaked and the position can read as a negative value instead of 0, or near 0. the fuel pump or fan can stop working and cause the ECU to not let it spark (can test both with a 12v battery) that's a good first stab list... good luck.

All of the linkage bits i checked have the same part numbers so I would think that the ether of the 4RT shock options, Showa or R16V, would fit and I would guess the same for the front Showa/Tech... Edit: Yes the front triple is the same part number as well so, yes the front Show or Tech's it would fit.

Sure sounds like your master is loosing pressure because of a bad seal... maybe your fluid is rushing back into the reservoir so your not seeing any leaks? I haven’t worked on the Grimeca brakes so not sure how the piston and seals are setup so I don’t know if this is would be possible Without leaking but I have had it happen in the past on an old street bike I had so thought it might be worth a suggestion.

Airoh lists the weaght on there site as well... 850 +- 50 Grams... Example: https://www.airoh.com/full-range/trr-s

I haven't had any issues finding the weight on trials helmets. Because they are ECE 22.05 you get a range because of head size hence the +- 50 from XS - XXL... Example: Hebo Zone 4 Carbon 850 +- 50 Grams. Non Carbon 950 +- 50 Grams. Carbon: https://hebo.com/shop/gb/inicio/525-2701-cascohelmet-trial-zone-4-carbotech.html#/38-talla-xs/46-color-lime Non Carbon: https://hebo.com/shop/gb/inicio/541-2596-cascohelmet-trial-zone-4-monocolor.html#/26-color-white/31-talla-l Hope that helps...

https://www.handdracing.co.uk/product-page/4rt-suspension-linkage-plate-upgrade-kit Works on the 315R and the 4RT. So others that are for the 4RT would as well, might give them an email and see when/if they are getting more back in stock.

Last time I had a stuck caliper (Old Suzuki) I pulled it from the bike and used compressed air to force them out. Drained out the brake fluid, then stuck a set of well used pads in and hit it with the air.

I would expect them to move a lot more than that... You also look like you have a great deal of fluid inside... Might have a bad seal?

In order of preference not value/cost. Michelin X11 Dunlop 803gp Michelin X lite I actually like the X lite just a bit more when grip is the primary consideration but I find I get flats on sharp stuff or when puncture weeds (goat heads) are around and the Dunlop's do better against them than the X lite. Haven't tried the IRC's so can't comment on them.

For me the last time I had an issue like this for me it was the position on the bike. I think I was putting just a touch more pressure on my hands than I had before. I had to adjust the bars a bit back and forth tell I was able to get about the same pressure as I had on my last bike. Of course I can't say this is the problem but I hope that helps and good luck.

Not sure I can help with what trials boot, however I wouldn't go with the listed ONeal's. My kid had a set of ONeal's, a lot like that set, in the transition between her small pit bike and the Beta Rev 80 we got her and they where to stiff, in the end we got my daughter a pair of the AplineStars and they are way better for her. Maybe they would have softened up a bit more over time but it sure didn't seem like it. Of course she isn't needing the wider toe box and bigger calf so that isn't going to help you but hope the information on the stiff factor helps at least a bit. Good luck.

Other than the stickers the rear design looks the same as the 2020 301 RR to me... and I agree its a pore design.

My daughters first trials moto was an 80 Sr with the full size wheels. The difference in total weaght is maybe 4-6lbs last I recall and the 125 she rides now is way nicer suspension for any adult and I doubt its any harder to start than her old Beta 80. If it was me I would say go with a 125 unless you want to go down to something like an Oset 24.0R.

Fantastic news. Glad you where able to get it sorted without having to go to drastic measures.

As linaway indicated checking the jet tower is a good idea. Also, if you haven't checked and adjusted the jets that could help. Most people I know running a Keihin find a much larger low speed jet, smaller main, and needle setting change can make a big difference. It may sound a bit crazy but depending on the bike using anything from a 48-55 low speed, a 120-122 main jet, and a needle set between the middle to one lower around see level can run great. around 3-5k and a main of 118-120 and as low as 112 can be good at around 10k. Good luck.

Sorry if there was any confusion, my comment was intended for 54tphill as he indicated his issue shows up inside 6 min or so.