jonnyc21

I don't have ether so this is what I understand from looking into this in the past... The Mitani doesn't have the same performance of the Termi so people that are interested in over all engine performance will often go Termi. To replace a stock system for weight savings or when damaged the cost of the Mitani is often the way I have seen people go so that is a factor to me worth consideration as well. What ever way you go if you want the maximum performance from the Termi or Mitani you would also likely need a PTB and a bit of other performance modifications to really make the most of them. To sum it up from my point of view, with the overall cost less, the replaceable cover, and weight savings on the Mitani over the Termi, and with my wallet in consideration, I would go Mitani. I know its option based on what I have read and not actual experience with them, but still hope it helps...

I am around 14.5 stone and have played around a lot on my daughters Gas Gas 125 and would say that for me I wouldn't prefer anything under a 250 for my personal bike. Thought it can be fun to ride her 125 and I can sure rev it out and do most of what I am able to do on my Montesa it sure isn't as fun to ride on bigger hills and its a bit of an adjustment every time I ride it.

As lineawy indicated adjusting the idle is an easy check and worth a quick try. As above check spark, if you have that then the next in my mind is compression because its an easy check and then fuel. However with what you indicated I would expect it to be spark or fuel as compression usually would show up as early starting or other hard running issues first before just not starting. My 2 cents on how I would look into it... If you do not have spark I would try disconnecting the kill switch and checking spark again, if still no spark start checking the wires and see where you might have a loose wire or wet connectors from the muddy conditions. If you have a gauge to check compression I would do that next just because its quick and easy. Now If you have spark I would use a 12 v battery to check the fuel pump, if that works then continue down the line to see if you have fuel coming out of the injector. If you hit a wall with all of the above let us know.

As jimmyl indicated its under the black cover and add a shim against the casting.

One possible cause could be that the throttle position sensor thinks your going past 100%. Try using some superglue to fix a thin washer or something to the stop to see if it will stop doing that, if so its a position sensor issue. Another possible cause might be that your t-bag filter is plugged, though that seems a bit less likely based on what you indicate is happening.

You are correct that to bypass the tilt switch its the outside two wires that need to be joined. Unless your having an issue with the tilt switch I wouldn't bypass it as I have had my bike on top of me once where the lanyard did not disconnect and having the tilt switch was helpful. (Though this is a rare situation) If you expect to ride in conditions where you will become separated from the bike a lot I would fit a lanyard in place of the manual kill switch as the tilt switch can take a few seconds to kick in where the lanyard will stop the engine much quicker. Good luck and I hope you enjoy the bike!

Yes, both rebound and compression are slower at the default settings on the early 4RT's in comparison to newer bikes so makes the bike feel slow and heavy by comparison as well as requiring more effort to hop them. Turning the settings out closer to the softest side of things helps but for me it was still a bit to slow when the weather turned cold so I had the fluid in mine swapped for 2.5 rather than the sock 5 to speed things up. Found that held my settings closer to the center of the adjustment range and helps in cold weather as I still have some range adjustment to speed things up when needed.

The 3 restrictors to my understanding was because of road legal requirements is some countries, wasn't it? Having a few fellow riders with 05's in the past (one a good friend of mine) I don't recall the restrictions on any of there bikes or them talking about removing them. Some other things than have not already been noted, that I am aware of, between the 05 and the 06+ was a change in the decompression system for easier starting of the bike. Also where the 09 had a better silencer my 07 its still a noticeable amount quieter than my friends 05 for reference. Also, my friends 05 is still not hard to start but my 07 is easier and my 17 300RR is about the same as my 07. The most apparent difference between my friends 05 and my 07 and my 2017 is the suspension is a lot better on the 17. A couple years before I got my 17 I had my 07's suspension re-worked so its a lot more like the 17 because it was a bit slow in my opinion and that made the bike feel a bit heavy but I admit I am picky. As for a good condition low usage 05 4RT for a decent price, I would jump on it if I was in the market for a used bike. My 2 cents.

I looked at a few part numbers but they only seem to have it as an assembly and not as a single part so hard to say for sure if the swingarm its self is actually different. Example: 2005-2007 use 52100-NN4-000 2014-2015 uses 52100-NN4-J20 (black) or 52100-NN4-J10 (polished) 2017-2018 uses 52100-NN4-J20

Is a lot more fun when it isn't just clean or 5 sections.

Read an article once all about Bou and Fugi's bikes but couldn't find that one. This is at least an official link to Honda Racing so shows that 4 gears is defiantly the case and if I remember correctly 314CC. https://trial.hondaracingcorporation.com/machine/

Never had mine fully out of the bike or I probably would have done that just out of curiosity. Hopefully someone has and is willing to post it up here.

I agree with ride them as see. Though I am a 4RT fan and unless its been abused I would side that way. Also worth note is that, unless I am remembering wrong, the Beta Rev3's do not have linkage and have a PDS like shock. This isn't bad but I find I really don't gel with them as well as the newer Evo's and other bikes with linkage by comparison.

I have never felt my 4RT lacks grip or has any big issues turning and really don't have any issue with the slight weight difference... But then again you ride a Beta so turning wouldn't be as good on a 4RT by comparison, a 2T rider like yourself wouldn't think it grips as well because a 4T bike grip is different because of the way the power comes on, and yes 6 to 8 lbs more is quite a bit when talking trials bikes but hay I don't ride at the top level so I guess I can loose some lbs myself to make up for the difference. (Also, trying to figure how how 8lbs is a ton?) LOL

Not sure if I am correct but as its listed as a 4 Ride part by S3 this would seem like its setup for a bike that has the road kit installed to help with starting in the lean condition that is created by the emissions components. If this is the case I don't see it as being something that would help a 300RR. But then again, maybe I am missing something?

I use the Elf 740 HTX but have had decent experience with Maxima's MTL 75, though if I was in Europe I would consider trying GRO's extra light gear oil. Maxima is a bit thicker than the Elf but not a lot and is great once the bike is warmed up and dose give the clutch a touch more of a progressive feel. (Note: it took two oil changes to really feel the full difference in the oils.) Edit: Clarified the Maxima context in the thicker comment.

There is only 2 current production trials bikes that have E-Start and both of them still have the kick starter on them as well as the battery.

Only my opinion but... If that list is the only bikes I got to pick from I would go with the 2017 TRS. I don't know if that one comes with the curved pegs or not but if it dose I would also swap it to standard pegs ASAP as one of the two TRS bikes I have been on had the curved and I really didn't get along with them well. Good luck.

On the softer on the bottom, you might check the map switch as it could be on soft, but my real guess would be to double check the throttle tube. Mine felt a lot softer than I expected when I first got it and found it had a black (slow) tube I didn't expect that as my 07 had a white tube, so I swapped the 300RR to a white (fast) and all sorted. Glad its in good shape!

The good thing is that it looks like once you have the S3 kit a standard MX type fender with the 4 bolt setup would mount right up. I admit I am not a fan of the high fenders and if mud between the tire and fender was my consern I would get something to space up the finder a bit. Though that is a bit pricey so don't blame you for deciding you want to sort it out yourself.

As the piston didn't change it makes me wonder what the difference is and why they felt the need to swap to a different set?

With it being an 09, you might want to clean or replace the t-bag filter. Edit: On idle adjustment turn it in about 3/4 to 1 turn in from where it is now if I remember correctly and then giving it a go I think is what I did, after that I used a Tachometer to get it set to 1800, was about 2200 if I recall beforehand.

Had my fuel pump wire come loose on my 07 once causing mine not to start, only other time it wouldn’t start was it had a low idle as stated above. Might be good to know year as well as it could help us to give better advice on possible issues...

Have a comparison ride between the 301 and 300 you could elaborate on? Would be interested in knowing how much difference there is between them as well...

I know someone who has a pair and based on his experience as long as you don't melt them they should be great for a nice long time. I would already have a set if I had known about them when I was first looking for trials pants. At least I know what I am getting when my current set ware out.