jonnyc21

I seem to be able to put what I need in my camelbak... good luck.

Your last picture in that second post sure looks like what linaway is saying. The levers look low and if that is the case it would defiantly cause throttle issues (whiskey throttle or other throttle control issues) to happen. It seems counter to bring them up and can feel strange when you first do it but its well worth it and will/can make trials riding so much better. Good luck.

I am always cautious when going past 60-70 to get a tire on. If a good amount of quality tire lube and heating the tire up in the sun first isn't doing the trick I use an air chuck with a clip and then set the tire around a corner and then turn up the regulator tell it sets the bead or hits 100 and stop. I have only ever had to go up to 100 but have heard some go up to 110 to get one to set. Also, once I started using a high quality tire lube I haven't yet had to go past 80... so far anyway. Air chuck examples: (mine is like the second one but not the same brand) https://www.amazon.com/RamPro-Compressor-Connector-Accessories-Inflator/dp/B07N9773DN/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=air+compressor+inflator+with+clip&qid=1633192137&sr=8-8 or https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Inflator-Compressor-Accessories-Yellow/dp/B078WVQTN6/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=air+compressor+inflator+with+clip&qid=1633192137&sr=8-3

I grease both at the same time... just keeps me from wondering condition...

I agree with jimmyl that its easier to just pull it all the way out to grease it up or replace parts and is my preference. I have been able to pull it by putting my bike on a stand, pulling the rear wheel, and then removing everything. It takes a bit of work to do so without loosening anything up or remove anything as there are a few things that get in the way a bit, but more than possible without doing so. Good luck this weekend.

New post in their news section today... https://www.montesa.com/en/actualidad/2022-montesa-motorcycle-line-up/

I am taking a guessing here, but are you talking something like this? https://www.hardlineproducts.com/product/hourtach-meter/ (PS. I have no affiliation with this company, just like the meter and mount as I use them myself) If so then I would say also add this. https://www.hardlineproducts.com/product/hour-meter-instrument-style-mount/ You will need a slightly longer bolt for the tank/mount but that isn't to hard to find and install instructions are easy to follow as it really is just a matter of wrapping a wire around the spark plug lead and setting the tach/hour meter to the correct setting for 4t engines.

I would tend to agree with Johnny Reggie, the last time I was getting with a stall and a pop I turned up my tickover and it fixed it strait away and the only other thing I have ever done that gets a pop and then stall is me at the end of the day when my finger is getting tired and I am being port with my clutch control and stall it. Not sure mcman56's comment would apply 100% as the Montesa 260 as its EFI where the Beta 4t runs a carb and has a lower tickover speed...

Try checking this thread out maybe?

I suspect its a combination of the state of everything mixed with the fact that its riding season in a lot of places so the people that are posting a lot normally are out riding more... at least that is my hope. (shrug)

If it was me at 7 I would consider the E-Bikes, and would say an OSET would be a good option as they have several size options depending on the kid. If your interested in gas bike I really like the Beta 80's but they are a full clutch so that might not work for 7 depending on the kid. If that is what your after then the Beta Rev 80 Jr might be small enough. Anything smaller than a Beta 80 Jr for Gas bike and they don't seem to bring them into the US so can't say much to it and I don't know to any other options but the Gas Gas Boy (50cc?) that has an auto clutch but I don't know if they still make them. Good luck.

I have an 07 and a 2017 so here is what I have found. It is not hard to make a 2014-2018 (I think also the 2019?) fender to fit an 07 but you would be able to tell it was modified near the tank. However the 2020+ fenders are different again and from what I can see in the pictures not nearly as easy to work with from what I see. As for difference the end of the fender is enough smaller on the 2014-2018's that I really prefer the original 07 fender on my 07 over the new type when riding in mud or wet conditions. Hope that helps.

Would love a Repsol look 301RR... now you got me dreaming.

Or if you can find a bare fender you could consider an aftermarket sticker kit? I think Mitani still makes/sells the bare fenders... again not cheap. https://www.handdracing.co.uk/product-page/future-repsol-decal-full-kit-2005-2013

getting expensive to get the old ones... check https://jbanyeres.com/en https://jbanyeres.com/en/plastic/325-guardabarros-montesa-repsol-09.html?search_query=4rt+fender&results=572 I know it isn't a 2011 but an 09 fender is kind of close, better than a 2014+ anyway. Good luck.

Yes they ware out in a few ways. Some of them are, that the oil brakes down, the seals ware out, if you loose to much nitrogen it will almost always cause a shock to leak, etc. My 2 cents, for what its worth, is that If the shock is not serviceable but you like the way the bike rides, and your a tight wad, use it tell you feel it doesn't ride nice and replace it, or ride it tell it would normally be time to rebuild and then replace it with a serviceable shock. When mine needed service I decided to change it out for a custom setup that is more plush than my original and really like the way the bike rides now but even just a nice lower cost serviceable shock would work great in my opinion. Good luck with what ever you end up doing.

My wife and daughter both ride and we got a set of the Garne's for my wife and AlpineStars for my daughter (older stile). Between the two my daughter likes the AlpineStars more than my wife likes the Garne's and they both have only slightly wider than average feet and decent arches. FYI: The current AlpineStars do not have the same foot box as the older type my daughter has but having both a current and older pair for myself the newer boot is a little thinner profile but not a lot. Hope this helps at least provide a little more information for consideration.

I am about 86 kg (190 lbs) and I can do fine on a 125 for lower to mid level riding but do have to rev it quite a bit to do so and think the 200's are better all around without modification. The 250 I have and have been on are nicer for the low end grunt and for my size something like a Beta 250 with a flywheel weight, black (slow) throttle, and maybe timing retarded 3mm would be my choice over a 125 and you could even go with a low compression head to make it a bit easier to start and mellow it out a bit as well. Just some extra information for consideration. Good luck!

Really like this one and this mount. (no affiliation) I had to get a longer tank bolt to make the mount work but really like it at the front like that, feels out of the way, easy to see/check, and the mount has been solid over the last couple years. (use it on my Montesa 300RR.) Meter: https://www.hardlineproducts.com/product/hourtach-meter/ Mount: https://www.hardlineproducts.com/product/hour-meter-instrument-style-mount/

The barrings/bushings and bolts, (including shock bushings/barrings) all play into how much movement you have at the rear tire. When things are loose it will affect trials riding in a number of ways. I would expect that a lack of traction and control for most riders would be the most common problems, however a good number of riders might not even notice the change in grip and steering angle because in most cases it has changed over time and they adapted to it without noticing. I would also expect that unless they went from bad barrings/bushings/bolts/etc. to all new at once most likely wouldn't notice the change and even then some might not. I would guess that the second most affected riding would be hopping the front or rear, though probably more noticed on the rear hops, and as on the grip wouldn't expect it to be something most would notice as it likely changes over time and people often adjust without noticing. I would think the most apparent would be, as baldilocks indicated, on the bigger hits during drops, splats, zap's, etc. as it would make the most nose. Also, at 10mm I am wondering if your talking sag or slop.

Haven’t ever seen one in real life but in the video I did see with the seat off it might fit a 1 ltr in there but I doubt you could get a 2 ltr under it. If you really want an extra couple of ltr’s or more I think you will need some other solution. Good luck.

I think what your after is this. https://shop-s3.com/gb/montesa-4rt4ride/404-gear-shift-pedal-set-8435645019025.html

I would also check the fan motor by running it using a 12V battery to make sure it isn't the cause of the bad regulator as well.

Should be on the side of the radiator on the shifter side of the bike if I am remembering correctly. if you do a continuity check on it I want to say you will find an open circuit if that is the case then to by pass it and check voltage all you have to do would be to pull the wire off the plug and put a jumper between the connectors. and then check the voltage at the fan wires. Also, yes you can check down line closer to the regulator and should be able to tell if your having an issue there. If voltage is fine you might just have a bad fan motor?

You should be able to bypass the temp sensor to cause the fan circuit to engage and test... There is a good chance that your regulator is not working correctly and you are getting high voltage to everything.