jonnyc21

I only suggest the cam chain tensioner because I have heard of a few of them having issues where they would bind up and not keep the needed pressure and so get some chain slap. Where not a common issue one of the ones I know about was on a newer 260 (couple years old) so figured considering how easy it is to check that part it was worth a look. The one I indicated here was replaced by a manual tensioner and the sound went away and the owner likes it better, however if swapped with a manual version it would need to have the tension checked from time to time. What ever the case I hope it turns out something simple to fix it like changing fuel, the tensioner, or spark plug etc.

Before going all in on that I would double check the timing chain tensioner. I know that you can get a noise that sounds a bit like piston slap from the chain. Would be the least invasive check and if the issue would be one of the lower cost options. Well worth a look in my opinion. Also, unless you put piles of hours on your bike or are not doing oil changes it is more likely something simple like the tensioner than a piston issue considering the year of even the oldest 301's in comparison to how long most Montesa's last in my opinion. good luck.

Bit longer and not as much riding as I would like so going back to older threads seems to be a side-affect. LOL

Both my 2007 4RT and my 2017 300 RR is behind the bars as well... good luck. PS. On Page 34-35 or section 2-11 and 2-12 under service data of the manual linaway posted is the hose and cable routing information.

I know this is a very old thread however I think it really depends on what kind of speeds your going and if road or trail riding. On a decently open trail where I was able to hold a lot of 4th gear and some 5th mid RPM and almost never going below 3rd on my Montesa I was able to get just over 23 miles on the 2 Liter tank of fuel. (Bike was a 2007 Montesa 4RT 250). When I ride a lot of slower more technical trails or higher RPM's the fuel drops and I don't get that much. I had to carry extra fuel to be sure I could make the loop I was riding, ended up only needing 1 of the 3.5 extra I had with me.

I have to agree on feeling that most would not be secure enough, part of why I was looking at ones online that I felt might be better. As for comfort, I can only hope one I try is close enough that with a thin sleeve it might be decent but even then I think that will be the part that is the most difficult. I also had the thought of using some fishing line to connect the ends together as I could then figure out how many strands of what test was needed to match the breakaway of a current tether. would solve the comfort issue that way as well.

Ya I have a back burner thought on picking up several breakaway buckles and testing the brake point of an old tether strap and doing the same with the buckles and comparing the results to see if I can find something that would work well enough I would be willing to use. (Comfort would be a consideration as well) Some examples of what I was thinking about testing... My two favorites: 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QYY82XD/?coliid=I14TRKD5T1DIJG&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQV6QXKG/?coliid=IXJ1F5LZMCJJR&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it I also found some others I was thinking to test as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DL1OI3K/?coliid=I9F82BXNUOCFO&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NZ9SBNH/?coliid=I3OC3XIHVYJGV8&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P1D14GH/?coliid=I1DZW4HLW2WE2J&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it PS. If anyone beats me to this I am happy to give them the credit as it isn't really something I care to try and make into a product. I will likely share the results here for everyone just not planning on making any for others.

I have thought more about your question on why the Elastic is used than most and where I am not sure about it I am of the perception that the primary thing around the elastic that most of the other options I have seen people come up with don't have is safety in relation to it braking if critical. Most of the replacements I have seen people make are of materials that I would never want around my wrist if that lanyard was to snag in something like the rear sprocket or the chain if still spinning, that could take a hand off. I would much rather replace the elastic more often than have it not brake if it snags on something that has the mass/potential to do me real harm if it didn't brake. (Is this likely? I doubt it, but not worth the potential risk in my mind) I would be happy to use something more like Lineaway dose before changing out the cord from elastic to something thicker unless I was able to come up with some kind of brake-away at the top where my wrist is that I felt would save me in the event it was snagged in a drastic way.

If you haven't looked you might check if it has the black (slow) throttle tube, if so you can wake them up a lot by swapping to a white. I put a white (quick) on my 300 RR and love it over the black it came with. Oh and I agree that I have a lot more hop and snap by keeping the revs up and using the clutch more and also feel that is good even with the white tube.

I may not be a young one but I am ~93kg and I find that around 0.34-0.41 bar (5-6psi) front and 0.25-0.28 bar (3.5-4psi) rear on my Montesa 300RR seems to work great for traction, softer dirt and roots I go on the low end, rocks and hard edges I ride the top end of that. Good luck. Hope that helps for comparison.

I might be reading it wrong, however according to the top pined post on parts manual information a 51M is for the Cota 348 and 349 and should be 305.8cc/349.6cc respectively. (hope I have that correct)

I started my daughter out, at around 8, on a small PW50 clone to learn to ride and as soon as she was good on that I upgraded her to a beta 80 with a clutch. It didn't take long for her to learn the clutch even after the auto on the smaller bike and so if your kid can ride a bike I would expect even a Beta 80 small wheel would be a great first bike. Good luck making your call on what to get.

Not sure how well they would work but there is self tapping carbide tire studs? Example: https://www.aerostich.com/self-tapping-carbide-tire-studs.html Just not sure what level of retention they would have in trials tires as I suspect they are designed more for street tires.

If I understand it correctly the tank would fit on the bike but not let you attach the fender, thought it might work if you modified the fender? Considering the shape of the 4Ride tank I don't think I would want to ride one without also adding the seat when I check the parts diagrams.

I agree that to me it is counter intuitive to attach anything to a brake line. Even if it seems unlikely to cause an issue I have to worry about what if.

I think that is to help hold the kickstand up when riding sections.

Maybe something like this would work?

I loved learning on a 125 at first, however I figured out very quick that I had to start with a lot more throttle and really learn the clutch before going up to a 250. With the fact that your having to rev it a lot that is exactly what I had to do. If you are feeling like more low end power would help and your trying to learn in part by doing what your buddies are doing then I would say it might be worth going up to a 250 however only you can really make that call. Something that might be worth consideration would be on a smaller hill, log, rock, or other technical bit maybe one of your riding buddies would be willing to let you have a go on there 250 and you can see if it makes it easier for you. If it helps a lot then maybe that would help you know if its worth changing bike size? Good luck what ever you decide to do.

Considering it was hot enough to toast a tire and fender, I would check for melted wires shorting on the frame or other chassis component first thing if you don't see spark. Possible it could have caused an issue by melting something inside the ECU on the throttle body as well, however wire harness issues would be my first check. Good luck.

When I did the one on our Gas Gas I just did what Lineway is saying, tied a string to one side of my current hose before pulling it and then used that to pull things back after the fact. If you already have the old hose pulled out then you could use something like a wire cloths hanger to fish a string through it? Good luck.

I like the NILS oils and would consider the clutch trials oil myself if you have a good place to get it. I have used Maxima 75w gear oil in our Gas Gas 125 in the past and it worked well but I did like thinner better myself, however the clutch action is a little faster that way and the 75w slowed the engagement a bit and my daughter liked that a bit better when she was younger and learning. Example: (no affiliation just the only place in the US I know of I can get it) https://abadtrials.com/collections/lubricants-1/products/nils-clutch-trial

I would say based on my past experience that a single tooth in front is usually close to the same as ~3 teeth on the rear. So I would guess that would be around the same as going down to a 38 in the rear from the 41 you have now. You might be able to get a good idea of the total change by using the gearing commander site/tool... https://www.gearingcommander.com/

Considering there isn't a lot of changes between them I would guess that you would be able to use something newer for most if not all of the standard repairs most people would do outside of a few small changes. I have a 2007 4RT and 2017 300 RR and I could use my 2017 book to work on my 07 for 95% or more (maybe all?) of what I have done with them. Also, Honda shops if they know how to do it can look up the PDF's from what I understand however haven't ever had to ask or figure that out so might be mistaken. Good luck finding a 2012 or making a call on what to do. Side note: Can't seem to find a 2012 but I can find 2005, one for 2016, and a site that has 2017-2023 2005: http://www.overlandtrail.biz/Manual Montesa 4RT 05.pdf 2016: https://www.stblazeymx.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/MONTESA-Cota-4RT-16.pdf 2017 - 2023: https://www.montesa.com/en/manuals/

Not saying that it will not work as I suspect it really would, however not knowing what kind of additives are in excavator hydraulic oil in comparison to official motorcycle transmission oil I admit I wouldn't go there first myself. But I admit I am wondering how the viscosity values are in comparison to the ELF, NILS, and GRO. Even then I admit if the numbers are close it would be an interesting experiment and wouldn't be against giving it a go in my 07 4RT if I didn't have a lot of ELF left. Will be a bit before I would even need to consider going there however.

I like the NILS Clutch Trial and ELF so maybe you can find some NILS? Also Maxima also makes a light gear oil "Maxima 75w-90" that works well for some in their Montesa's so if you can't find GRO or NILS that might be an option as well. good luck.