jonnyc21

unless your riding at very high altitude or are a large person there isn't any need to go bigger than a 250 and many like the Beta 200's even over a 250. Based on your experience with enduro going to a 300 will likely not be a problem at all and if you like the lower end grunt a 300 might feel better. I like the feel and ride of my Montesa 300 better than my older Montesa 250 but I don't think I do any better on it than the 250. Because I like the feel of the engine and the suspension better on the 300 I prefer it but really don't need that much bike. A note: In my 10+ years riding modern trials bikes; I know several riders, some much more experienced than myself, who have gone down to 250's and find they do better in competition on the 250's v's the 300's... I know this is just my 2 cents but hope it helps...

Yes there was some 2014's that had bearing issues. Unless your already a 4T guy I would say most people prefer the 2T bikes when compared back to back so where Montesa's are very reliable and great bikes being an EFI 4T you might find you like a Beta, Sherco, Scorpa, TRRS (TRS), Vertigo, or Gas Gas 2T better as far as the engine feel is concerned. I like the 4T's and really like the Beta and Montesa 4T's myself (Have a Montesa 300RR) but that is preference. If the only bikes in the aria was a 2014 Gas Gas and it was me I would likely work with a dealer to find a good used bike and have it shipped if there wasn't one close. And I think I would go Beta or TRRS, but that is me and very much opinion.

jrsunt is correct, it will not start without it connected. Once when I cleaned my tank filter on my 07 4RT I didn't connect the fuel pump back up by mistake, took me a few min to figure out why it wouldn't give me spark. As for 12v on the pump you should be able to hear it kick on and off as long as you don't have to much background noise. They are fairly quiet so be sure there isn't much to distract when testing.

Sounds like it isn't the bank sensor... There is a long list of things to check and I admit I don't remember them all off the top of my head, however here is some of the more common ones I can think of. Check there is a small bit of play in the throttle cable Check that the throttle body isn't going negative by putting a thin shim under the throttle stop (you can sometimes supper glue a really small washer for checking this) Check all the ground connections are clean and connected Make sure you don't have a bad component causing an issue (a bad fan or fuel pump) can check them with a 12v battery. Bank angle sensor (you have already checked this) If I think of anything else I will let you know... After that I would see if I can find someone else willing to swap ECU's to test with?

I tested my 07 with a bypassing/jumper to see if the bike would start and found that to be my problem. All I did was to use a bit of stranded wire as a jumper between the two outside pins to test and the bike started fine (could even use a small bit of paper clip or the like). After that I cut the wires on my bad bank sensor with as much length as possible left on the plug. Then I capped off the center one filled it with a bit of silicone to stop water ingress. Finally I spliced the two outside wires together and plugged it back in tell the new part came in.

If you have a buddy with relatively new tires on their bike you could compare them... If they seem a lot harder then maybe change them.

As I understand it the new bikes still are standard plates and dimpled are aftermarket only. Edit: The part number on my 07 match with the part number for the 2018 260, so ya... not dimpled. 22321-MG3-000

I think you may want to double check because I would expect it to be inch lbs not ft lbs on spokes? Or are you talking some other part bing tightened? Edit: I just checked my Montesa manual and the rear is saying 3 N.m (26.5 inch-lbs)... interesting I don't see a spec for the front though...

I like this video on how to do it. I would loosen it all up and then start this process.

If you really want to torque you would want to first loosen everything and re-true and tighten again to not twist the wheel. Other wise just tape the spokes and tighten tell they all have a nice ping sound... as b40rt pointed out you don't want a dull thud sound when tapping them as that would be way to loose.

I have seen pictures of one on a Gas Gas and one on a Beta so they can be setup for other bikes, however it seems it is not common. As I don't know anything more about it other than it can be done and only ever used Showa suspension on my two Montesa's (07 4RT & 2017 300RR) I can't speak to the difference over the other bikes. And for clarification: The Montesa Repsol has Showa front and Rear, 300RR and 301RR have Formula Tech front and Showa Rear...

Based on your indication of possible gas gas I am going to say it sounds like your most interested in 2t (2 stroke), if so I would say 250. If you end up considering a 4t (4 stroke) the Beta 300 would be fine or a Montesa 260 would be good as well. Even after riding lots of differnt bikes over the years I was very glad that I started on a 250 for my first trials bike and would most likely be on a Montesa 260 if I had been able to get a Repsol when I upgraded but they only sold the standard or the 300 in the US at the time and I wanted the upgraded suspension. Even at 89 kilos (196 lbs) I really don't need the 300 and would probably ride better on a 250. Oh, and I would echo the comments on getting something other than a Gas Gas based on the current state of the company. If the Gas Gas seems like a good bike I would say you might like the TRS (TRRS?) as they ride more like a Gas Gas than the Beta's I have been on and it is not a company that is currently in question for the future. My top choices for 2T bikes are TRS, Beta, and Sherco/scorpa all great bikes and your very likely to be able to get support for a long time with any of them. Hope that helps.

It can be tricky for sure. Tell I got a kit I was not able to get a good seal and bleed it correctly in reverse. Even when I revers bleed a system I double check everything with a forward bleed and have even had to use a suction setup on an old BMW I used to have that I just couldn't get completely good without doing so.

With that setup if you had a reverse bleed setup it might have been a one shot setup... Ether way, I will have to remember this if I ever need to do a complete bleed on ether of my 4RT's. Thanks!

I don't think it is an exact answer but a lot of good information on 6v systems can be found when looking at old cars running 6v systems. Example: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/63045-what-wire-gauge-to-use/ Summary of what I see when looking at this is that #14 wire should hold up to 15amps...

I am not, lots of great places to rid in the world where waterproof isn't the top thing to consider... Even when I was in Western Washington, US (a lot like riding in the UK for rain and mud) it didn't seem to help enough to have them waterproof anyway... Ya, its my 2 cents so not worth a lot but there you have it.

Seems like English is a second language so I took a best guess on my response.

I haven't had any issues with a gentle cycle on cold in a small load with like colors.

If your wanting to give it a try without adding chain links I would go with Jimmyl's 9/41, or as above add links or swap everything out for new.

I just recently got a set and I think the size seems good, or at least it sized the same as the older AlpineStars trials boots. They have a bit stiffer sole but my feet need that and I don't find it hiders my riding (I am kind of that lower intermediate level). Over all they seem decent quality and I am hoping they will last as long as the older version I had.

If I recall correctly... fast/white is like 1/2 turn to full open and slow/black is like 5/8 turn.

I can't speak to if 3mm of movement is enough on the slave for a 315R, however, did you bleed the slave recently? If not I would start there. On a side note, a few things to consider might be... When you took the basket apart did you have divots/indentations on the clutch fingers where the plates touch? If not, was there any unexpected wear that could account for things shifting off center? Did the clutch friction plates have a larger than normal amount of exposed glue and enough wear to the point where you might have any of that glue in contact with the pressure plates? Any of this could account for it outside of the slave movement.

I think it was the fuel pump wires that got loose on me once and the ECU wouldn't give me any spark tell I fixed it... not likely the issue, but it was a cause of no spark and my bike just cutting out on me all of a sudden when I was riding it.

if you haven't check the RPM at idle is at least 1800' when warm it really could be the issue. That is not 100% for sure but well worth making sure before calling it a more complex problem.

I am with neils on wheels and use the primus bottles if I need to carry extra fuel. I then use a Wolfman fuel bottle holder to strap it to the left hand downtube of my my bike. (Mine is the older version of this one, https://wolfmanluggage.com/collections/fluid-systems/products/wolf-bottle-holster-wp)