jonnyc21

Front wheel strait is not easy, and even harder on a smooth floor... My recommendation is to lower your your tire pressure tell they are nearly flat when you first start. Then you can practice tell you brain can't take it any more, and repeat daily tell you get it. Next bring the pressure up about 1/2 a PSI/ or .04 bar and begin again. Rinse and repeat tell you get to normal riding pressure on the tires... Lots of other good information in here so good luck!

The top riders definitely have there suspension tuning done, however the question is at what level. If you dig aground a bit you should be able to find some decent information on this. Might look into TURN Racing? Nice shot of Toni in their gallery: http://www.trunracing.it/index.php?option=com_sppagebuilder&view=page&id=12&Itemid=518&lang=en

I think you already have some great responses, however I will add our experience in case it helps. When we found out about trials it was an interesting adventure I am glad we took and keep doing today. We started by getting my wife's Gas Gas 125 first so I started learning on it and I was amazed at how well it worked even for me at 190 lbs. I can even say that I would still be happy riding that 125 today without any upgrade if it had come to that. We didn't have any other 125's around so the second bike was a 250, and then my daughters Beta 80. A couple years ago I finally got a 300 and we all upgraded one bike. (Need to find a new home for the kids 80, now that it hasn't been out much in the last couple years... ) Power wise the 250 is all I could ever need though the 300 is a great bike I can't see where it really gives me anything the 250 didn't in usability. I often find a take a few more points on the 300 than I did on the 250 and when it gets out of hand its a bit more of a handful than the 250 is when it dose the same. I can say that I have had the most fun on the 250 over all at this point, though I haven't had my 300 long enough to say that will always be the case. Also, the 125 has only ever thrown me when I rev it way out and I miss time dropping the clutch, and other than a really big hill climb at altitude once it hasn't ever lacked power for anything else. So in summary, with your MX experience I would say you could go with anything but a 250 would likely be the big win for a good long term experience. Hope that helps.

Based on what I read the different crank venting to lower compression braking and the change in the flywheel would really be the only big differences mechanically in a 300RR with the big bore and the 301RR. On the other side fuel and ignition mapping would be the only other thing that would really make a difference and you should be able to sort that with the PTB software/hardware. Would be very interested in knowing how well it all works out for you.

As stated above, the 2 things that seem to cause the most issues with a 4RT in the way you are talking are low tick over (not 1800 RPM) and valves being out of spec on the tight side. I would of course check the tick over (idle RPM) is 1800 first, then if that's good then move to valves and let us know if your still seeing the issue.

FYI: a 250 isn't to small by any stretch. Here is my experience with engine size for reference... My daughter rides an 08 Gas Gas TXT Pro 125 and my wife has a Montesa 4RT 250 and I am ~200 lbs (~91 kg). I have more than once on the 125 taken it for a ride and it halls me around fine. We are at around 3000' elevation and even at around 5000 about the only thing I have had to do is down shift to second on a big hill clime. My wife's 250, well there isn't anything it can't do for me that I am capable of doing on my Montesa 300 RR. Simply put I don't need anything bigger than the 250, just couldn't pass up the 300 as a B-Day present from my wife a couple summers ago. PS. would have been happy with a 260 4RT if they shop had one... Side note: I am not sure the market out there for bikes, however I would say get the one that has a better re-sale market between the two as both will do fine for your size.

There are some fuel stabilizers/additives available here in the US that are suppose to help in prolonging shelf life for fuel. They are often used in small engine applications for winter storage and many people say they work fine. I personally feel they do help in storage of trials bikes but are best if you can mix in fresh fuel with it as soon as possible. I ride my bike nearly year round but my wife and Daughters bikes are stored for around 2 to 3 months depending on weather so often use it in them. Haven't had any issues but do a few things to help them the best I can. 1. Add the stabilizer 2. Fill the tank as close to the top as possible 3. Drain the floats empty if its going to sit for longer than 1 month 4. When running the bike for the first time after storage I add fresh fuel as soon as 1/4-1/2 tank used up. I try to get a good long practice run on both of there bikes first chance I can to use up at least a minimum of 1/2 to 3/4 of the stabilized fuel up. Here is a video showing the results of someone testing them for possible damage with ethinol and he runs the fuel in a lawn mower post test.

I agree, It would be nice to see a little less Lurid and a little less labeled. As such I like the looks of the Up and Over gear better than most, but need to use up my current gear a bit more before I can justify the expense to get some.

Bummer. Good luck and I am sure you will figure out something that works well tell your able to get a good pair of boots.

I tried a type of bark busters on my first trials bike for a time but after running them I find that if you really want something on the bars for any kind of protection I think the flag type guards to block bushes/branches are a better choice. Maybe not the best looking but after putting them on they sure have saved me from a few branch activated front brake and clutch moments out on the loop trail.

Sadly we don't have the size of group needed for a competition yet, however we are working on getting a Ryan Young training school setup for next year now that we are setup with OMC.

Some more context of what your talking about might help? World round level, local club, video on the internet, etc.? Without the context its hard to say for sure but it really depends on what rules are being observed. As walkertrials indicated if its a stop permitted event most rules I have ridden under let you if your hands are on the bars and engine is running. Some of other variations of stop allowed might be something like a stop is fine with feet up or something like that, if its a no-stop event then it should be a 5 because of the stop foot down or not. If you are in fact talking a no-stop event, witch it seems like you are, then a rider not getting called a 5 when they did stop with a foot down would be an error on the part of the observer, often because of misunderstanding the rules or not being focused on the rider when it happened, but would of course have been a 5 by the rules. So hope that helps.

I am from the Boise area and didn't see any information on a trials round for the Endurocross. Are you hooked up with the trials group out here? Small number of us getting into the OMC club and have setup a trials section there, as well as a number of us ride other locations around the area.

I almost forgot about dual sport boots working well. When I first started I used my dual sport boots and though the stepped heal wasn't the best they where much better than hiking boots or MX boots by a long shot.

If your going to buy something you might also look at the cost difference to some of the less expensive trials boot options in case they are also in your price range. I have seen some as low as the $170 range (I think the forma bolder can be found at that price range?) and with the flat sole and trials design they would be a better choice than hiking boots witch often have a heal and that can be problematic in trials for moving your feet around on the pegs.

Any chance you have something that has more flex than the MX boots and are more protective than running shoes? Maybe hiking boots? On that note if I didn't have anything but what you listed I might be willing to do basic flat ground work like balancing and figure 8's and such with the running shoes, but anything else I would pick the MX boots... Good luck.

I see a few comments about the Clake and think that might be a good option but it would take some brain re-training for sure. Video:

Sure looks like a 10cc bump to me... and a few other updates, small but should be noticeable! https://www.trialworld.es/montesa-cota-301rr-2020/

The factory settings should be in the manual... if you don't the manual I can look them up for you, however... It isn't really about starting from factory settings, its about knowing where you currently are so you can go back to at least what you are used to. I wouldn't worry to much about factory settings. At this point I would suggest going all the way out on everything and then ride it a bit so you know what it feels like. Then start going in 2 to 3 clicks at a time between rides on everything tell it start feeling good. Then do a good full practice ride it at least once or twice before doing anything else. Now if you like it great, if you want better then start adjusting one thing at a time, in or out on the front rebound tell you like it and then ride a bit, next in or out on the front compression tell you like it, then the same on the rear tell its as good as you can get. (Remember to write things down so you can go back at any point to what was last working well for you.) Finally, if you really like the current compression and rebound settings you can consider setting the sag if you want to go all the way. (FYI: I find around a 35-38% sage seems to work really well on my Montesa for me)

Yes, if its already a white tube it has been changed from stock. Every new 4RT or 300RR I have ever seen had a black tube when new.

A Domnio throttle tube works perfectly, direct swap shouldn’t need anything else other than maybe cable adjustment.

If they really wanted to go back to 2T I would expect they would just pull up the specifications of the 315R... Now the Gas Gas gearbox on the other hand, that’s an interesting consideration... ?

Not 100% but might work as an alternate replacement if you can't find something better? https://www.foxracing.com/buckle-replacement---for-pant-[black]-ns/91170-001-NS.html

The largest Gas Gas parts supplier for older bike I am aware of is the old US importer. Not that this is very helpful for you based on location. Can’t say who might be close to you that could have parts but might be worth a call/email to Jim if you can’t find what your looking for for. Good luck, and here is his website. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/

Honda already has Montesa, why would they consider Gas Gas... I know you didn’t suggest they are interested but figured better just clear that consideration off the plate... ?