jonnyc21

I have had good luck spraying a little bit of brake cleaner (only a shot or two) on the lifted part, then add the heat and last spray it with something like supper 77 or apply a little rubber cement to re-fresh sticky factor. (in the US so not sure if ether of ones I listed are in the UK)

Weather they intend it for some purpose or not I would use it a scratch protection myself. Or at least as a way to spiff up the bike after a good number of scratches... My 2 cents.

What was the idle set at when you where first running it? If it was below about 1800 your likely not going to be able to get it running well if at all. I would find your adjustment screw and turn it a bit to up the idle speed and see if it will start. You can also completely remove any kill switch and/or lanyard and see if the bike will start at all? (shouldn't be to hard to do and then just hold your brakes and let the clutch out to kill it...) You might also check your bank angel sensor by bypassing it to make sure it isn't causing you any issues, though I wouldn't expect that to be the problem.

I have an 07 250 4RT, have been on a 2017 260 4RT and have a 2017 300RR. In short I agree with the above, changes between the older 250 and newer 260 do feel different on the engine braking but also I feel the suspension on my 07 was stiffer than a 2014+ (tell I had it modified) and the power comes on a bit more smooth on the 2014+. As for the 300RR, lighter front end, I like the peg position a little more as its a bit rear ward, and of course more power.

I have a very oval head as well and find the Airoh TRR but it isn't a great fit even a size up. Not fond of the Airoh Evergreen (don't think they make it anymore...), lower end quality over the TRR if you ask me. I can't say it will fit you better enough over the Airoh to get one, however I found that the Hebo Zone 4 has a bit more oval in its shape in my opinion over the Airoh TRR and has about the same air flow and weight. Good luck.

At 65kg a 125 would be fine on power as you have stated you don't have any big hills. I say this because I am 88kg and can ride my daughters 08 Gas Gas 125 just fine on anything but a very big hill I can take my 07 4RT 250 up without issue just with a little more throttle. (FYI: I ride middle of the pack intermediate for reference) Now as for a 250, if you are already experienced and looking to advance a lot a 250 is also a great option and as stated above a black (slow turn) throttle and/or a fly wheel weight could slow the bike down if stock is a little more than you expected and will have a bit more low end power and likely last longer as you progress if your going to try for more advanced levels in sort order. My two cents, though I don't know how much help it is. Good luck with your choice.

I thought I read it was 1. Bou, 2. Busto, 3. Raga. But I don’t remember where that was I found that...

Bank sensor will stop the bike if it’s tripped but I admit I don’t know if it stops the fuel or spark. If fuel then it could be the cause.

Did you make sure there wasn’t any water in the fuel? Might also try bypassing the bank angel sensor... might be shorted and if so wouldn’t let it start and stay running. Guessing you already tried the full throttle kickstart twice rest. Good luck.

I am wondering what boots you have and how far above them you managed to get on your calf? As for protective gear most of the trials gear I have seen I wouldn't expect to have much protection in regards to what your talking about as most of them are a fabric based compression type and wouldn't really do much to prevent a kick start lever from getting through. Examples would be the Jitsie and Hebo, both are fabric... I suspect you will need something not trials specific if you can find it at all. Good luck.

I was wondering myself on the first battery less EFI dirt or trials bike so after a fare bit of looking I can't find any production bikes before the 05 Montesa that did it. Not going to say there wasn't one sooner, but if there is one I must be missing some word/phrase in my search to find it if so.

I know my 2017 Montesa didn’t come with one and I don’t recall one on my buddies new Beta... I am wondering if it’s a feature on the newer factory bikes maybe?

I have only seen that on some bikes not all of them. But it isn't hard to get one and add it yourself.

I would agree that the electric is the bike of choice if your going to ride in your yard a lot. On the 2T to 4T side, its all about the person... I have had some people tell me that they don't really like the sound of the 2T and don't mind the 4T. I have also had others say they don't like the 4T and are ok with the 2T. And I have had one that just hates them both. So in my experience its a mixed bag. If you really want a petrol/gas powered bike you can also consider putting a 90 degree silicone elbow on the end of a 2T pipe (From my experience the 2T pipes don't get as hot) and it will direct the sound into the grass and can change/muffle the sound a lot as the grass doesn't reflect it like the walls and fences do.

They are both great bikes and I would say for the vast majority Lineway has it nailed. For me however I find the 4RT the bike of choice. I find 4RT turns great, I can’t deny the Beta turns sharper however for me it didn’t seem to help me in an actual section. I love not having to jet it to ride pretty much anywhere. I prefer the suspension on the 4RT as it really makes unexpectedly deflecting off rocks and roots less abrupt for me where the Beta took more attention over drastically changing surfaces. I haven’t seen any issues with traction in any conditions I have used it, unless your count going from Western Washington mud to grippy Idaho rocks and suddenly getting to much traction an issue. (LOL) I love the build quality and believe that as long as I take care of it my 17 Montesa 300 RR will last as long or longer than my 07 4RT is lasting. I think adjusting from a 2T to a 4RT would take some time and is worth consideration. I had been on a mix of 2T and 4T with a slight lean to the 4T side my whole life so didn’t have much adjustment on the 4RT other than learning trials when I started. (Almost all 4T now though) Not sure on the Beta 4T but the Montesa has a higher idle than every 2T I have ever been on so that always has me adjusting a bit when I do spend some time on a 2T anymore. I also really like not having to mix the fuel, but that wasn’t a deal breaker. I think that most people do better on the 2T’s and though I would like to think otherwise it’s just the way it seems to be. In the end I would say you wouldn’t go wrong with one or the other as far as the bike is considered but as for the rider that can vary widely. Good luck!

Not sure what your exact issue with getting it all connected is, however the last time I worked on one I had to loosen up the other spokes and then I was able to get everything together. Then it was the normal wheel building processes to get them all tightened back up. I hope someone else has an easier solution... Good luck!

Maybe I am out there but I would have thought that the biggest advantage to going to non-top would be that it would be better on video. So would make better TV/YouTube type viewing.. I still like a timed section with stop allowed better myself but that is just opinion...

I would say turbofurball has it well stated... My experience... I am about 195 lbs (88 kg/14 stone) and can ride my daughters Gas Gas 125 fine but it dose take more work than mine and I have to spin it out a lot more in a lower gear for a long hill. So if you some trials experience and are close to the same as me I would recommend a 250, if a good amount smaller then a 125 could work well in my opinion. Good luck! ?

I think it might be the if I am spending the money on a new bike I might as well match thing... However I am often mistaken in my guessing. ? ?

Yes fine, but they will ware out faster than a 10T and a larger rear sprocket under the same conditions. Where it isn't explained in detail what section swept is talking about is real and a 10T and larger rear is a better over all option long term.

I use mine in the same way heffergm. Works great and makes it easy for me to keep tabs on when I should be doing things like oil change, barrings, etc.

I think it’s great balance and control practice to do that and will use it as a warmup before I go into my riding drills/practice. Luckily for me here in the US the no stop rule isn’t an issue... but even with it I think it would help... my two cents.

The 300 RR had the S3 hard rock aluminum and the standard has the S3 steel if I remember correctly. I upgraded to the steel on my 07 4RT and have a 300 RR so can measure them both tonight if someone else doesn’t come back with the data sooner... I checked the S3 site and didn’t find the information...

No offence at all with your question. lineaway was just trying to keep me from accidentally giving bad advice. The trick here is that some motorcycles like BMW shaft drive might use that in the rear gear/hub but it wouldn't be used in the engine, so yes motorcycle approved but not inside the engine. So I would look for something that is specified as for a 2T motorcycle engine and would also be good if it states wet clutch.

The Pirelli MT43 is the most resilient of the trials type tires but even with that it depends on how long it was run flat, what was the surface, and what kind of load was on it during that time on weather or not it is still good. The next issue is the answer would still be a guess unless someone has done the same on their Pirelli... Based on your first post I am going to say there is a good chance it is still usable, however I couldn't say its an accurate guess... Good luck.