jonnyc21

I love my older 2007 4RT and my new 300 RR even more. I ride intermediate and wouldn't hesitate to suggest a 260 or 300 to anyone really interested in one. That being said, before you buy, I would suggest even if not planning to get into competition early, find a club and go check out an event. If you go and ask lots of questions you might get some test rides on a 4RT and/or some other bikes and it will help you see if it's really worth your time and $. Olso, in my opinion, if you want to be as good as the guy in the video in a year or less you will want to get hooked up with som other trials riders to learn from. Even without that some quality practice and you could get that in the first 6 to 12 months.

Also when using water and soap, very little soap is needed and use a thin layer to just barely float the sticker as you apply it. The intent with the soap is to brake down the surface tension of the water so it will come out from under the sticker easy and dry faster.

My daughter did great learning trials on a Beta 80 Sr (full sized wheels). Might be a little harder to find one but they come in the smaller wheel Jr version and the larger wheel Sr version, worked great from around 11 to 15 for her. Good luck.

Isn't the end all way but one thing I will do is buy new fenders (un-stickered) and then swap them for general riding so I can put the nice ones on for events or if I ever sell the bike. Also never a bad thing consider getting a new sticker kit to replace any stickers that get messed up over time.

Fun and lightweight don't make a keeper, just fun to play on from time to time...

If reliably is key then I would recommend Beta or Montesa as I (and my friends) have had the best luck with them. I do enjoy how light my wife's Gas Gas feels but I just enjoy the overall package of my Montesa more.

It's under the pump assembly in a space between the green stuff. You have to pull the pump to get at it.

Now that's not fair, tour taking away all my reasons to play dirty... wait, that's why I have a trials bike... so I can play dirty!!!

What year is the bike? Might give some more insight to what could be the problem... Might consider that plug change you indicated, always wort roiling out the small stuff. Other considerations, low on coolant so might be heating up the fuel, valve clearance, water pump same as coolant... just some things off the top of my head.

As indicated, condition is your most important thing. If they are in the same condition I admit I would go with the Sherco as the company has had better long term results in bike longevity and support. My 2 cents... for what it's worth.

Wow that seems extreme, I only seem to need master fluid change once a year and my clutch is still fine when I do it. Maybe I just don't push my bike as hard? On a more productive note, you are correct. If the fluid is compromised it could be the cause of pore clutch action for sure.

Any luck yet? Or still have a few things to go over first?

If I had a standard 260 with the R16V I would want to update to a modified Internal-Reservoir Ohlins by Randy Lewis of R Racing. Might also note I am in the US...

Both sides to tight or loose can see similar symptoms depending on what the clearance is and witch valve is in question. I don't remember off the top of my head what symptoms are directly connected to witch valve being in what condition but I have seen almost everything in the range on my old 74 beetle from tight to loose on both sides.

Really already covered above... if you like or need more support for the sole/arch of your foot AlpinStars, if feel and comfort is tops then Gaerne. As for helmet I would add to the above, fit, venting and protectiveness where the primary things I was interested in and the nicest ones I have seen for that are the Hebo Zone 4, Airoh TRR. I think one of the Jitsie's are rated good there too but don't remember what one. If your not riding in a very hot climate most of the time then it's just fit and protection I would guess. good luck.

You could always just spend the rest (or as much as possible) of the card the same day to prevent that.

I think it must have just been offline for a few, its back online now.

If the valve clearance is supper off then yes the hole range could be rough, however if its just one side or only slightly off you can see it more at one side of the range or the other.

Valve clearance?

Looks like the site isn't responding any more... maybe it got taken offline?

I admit maybe paranoia but I would be a bit skeptical myself. Though it would be nice if I was wrong...

Without a doubt it could be the oil used. I would change the gearbox oil for something like Maxima 75 or GRO extream 75 if you don't want to go expensive ELF. Most other oil's are going to be a lot thicker than the Montesa was designed for. I have heard both work well in the Montesa but only have experience with ELF or Maxima 75. Maxima works good but I do like the ELF just a little better. Good luck.

The new TRS 125 is being developed with a powervalve, however none of the other trials bikes that I know of have one. (Older bikes excluded) I am guessing it just isn't critical considering the nature of how trials is ridden to need one.

The best answer is ride as many of them as you can if possible then get the one that gels with you the best. Other than personal preference you really can't go wrong with any of them in my opinion. On a more personal preference note... I am a 4T guy so love my Montesa for EFI, plush ride and power delivery. Would love to try a Beta 4T for comparison but don't have any around and haven't run into anyone with one at an event. My wife has a Gas Gas 2T so having played on it a bit I would say that if I was going to consider a 2T I would want to try a Vertigo because I love EFI, and would also want to give a TRS and a current Sherco a go before making a call as I haven't been on any of them. But wouldn't hesitate to get a Beta if that was all that was available. Have nothing against Gas Gas as they are good bikes, just not my favorite because I am not fond of the way they shift from 4th to 5th. this probably doesn't really answer your question but hope it's food for thought.

Before spending lots of time on bike setup, I recommend a good training program. Well worth every penny and way more benefit than a well setup bike!!! now if still want to read on for whatever reason, here you go. This will be very summarized and is based on my experience and advice I got from more experience riders. Note: I am also assuming the bike in question doesn't have any issues with equipment, such as 5-5.5 psi front 3.5-4 psi rear, suspension in good shape, runs good, etc. First, trials isn't anything like other motorcycle sports so setup takes a bit of experimentation and extrapolation. Good luck! Second, at its root the best setup will give you optimal grip and enough rebound and dampening to hop the bike and still do a splatter. so with that in mind... start by recording your current settings.... now, set around 35 to 40% sag. Put your rebound and dampening at between 1/4 and 1/3 from the lowest setting. (Record this setting so you can go back to if needed as well) Now, spend at least a solid hour or two on the bike practicing every different skill you know and feel you can do with that setup. You might need more or less time depending on you ability to feel different adjustments. Now you can start adjusting things and keep track at each adjustment. ...if the front end feels like it wants to or is plowing in a full lock turn you might need to lower the forks in the triple clamp or drop a little pre-load from the rear if your already maxed on the forks. Reverse the settings if you feel like your not able to turn tight enough. if the bike feels pogo stick like turn up the dampening. If the bike is hard to hop turn it down. If you feel all over the place when doing down a stream or through a pile of rocks then turn the dampening up, if the handlebars try to jump out of your hands when deflecting on a rock or the bike seems to push you over/ around the dampening may be up to high. If you find your loosing traction in low grip situations or uneven ground your compression is likely to high, if bouncie compression is to low. I went through a lot of this on my bike setup when I finally did a thorough job of it. I hope this helps.